CalmSeasQuest's Blue Wall (96X30X22)

[CalmSeasQuest]

Looks good Tom. Who is building the tank and why only 1/2" glass? Every glass tank builder I spoke with about doing an 8ft tank wouldn't use anything less than 3/4".

Thanks Steve - I was also initially concerned about the 1/2" Starphire, but a few factors "tempered" those concerns...

• GLA has been in business a very long time and I looked closely at Steve's build quality and seams. I was very impressed.
• In my research, I was unable to find any reference to a large GLA tank failing.
• The tank is not rimless, rather it is fitted with a top frame. I had Steve upgrade the cross braces to acrylic to remove any shadowing concerns (especially with the Kessils.)
• This build is only 22" high, so it's under far less stress than a typical 320 build.
• Steve does extensive internal glass bracing along the bottom of the tank.

The fact they are building the tank, sump and stand and delivering/placing all was also a comfort.

 

[dave.m]

It's the height of the tank, not the length, that determines glass thickness. I have had tanks up to 36" at only 1/2" glass with no problems. That said, you will still want euro-bracing and a few good cross braces over the top to be sure.

Dave.M

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

In finalizing the designs for the saltwater mixing station, I'm reconsidering the use of a Kalk reactor.

Years back I read a great article written by Randy Holmes-Farley on the benefits of adding vinegar to fortify Kalk. Since then, I've had success adding vinegar to Kalk, both to increase the amount of available calcium and as an added carbon source. I attribute this process (in addition to the use of DSBs) to my never having any nitrate issues. As this will be my first large tank with a SSB, I want to do all I can to maximize biological filtration - including the use of vinegar. The use of a Kalk reactor makes that more complicated. Instead, I plan on adding a covered 40 gallon brute to the mixing/storage station which will be fed by the RO/DI storage tank and hold an over-saturation of Kalk to which Vinegar can be dosed. This will be the ATO source.

This will allow me to continue using Vinegar, eliminate the cost of another reactor and most importantly - save space in the cabinet. It will also forestall the need for a larger CaRx and likely remove entirely the need for a bio-pellet reactor (Anecdotally, I found no benefits when I tested adding Bio-Pellets concurrently with vinegar dosing.)

Adding yet another water container will be a tight fit in the basement, but I think the benefits outweigh the inconvenience and if for some reason it fails to perform as expected, I can always add the Kalk Reactor.

 

[Brian Crook]

I am looking forward to seeing some photos of the Kessils and hearing what you think of them.

I am still trying to determine which lights to go with for my tank build and these are a definite contender.

Great thread so far!

 

[zenom]

Just ordered my tank a week ago from Steve as well. Can't wait to talk to you about this on Thursday. Sounds like a fun build.

Thanks Steve - I was also initially concerned about the 1/2" Starphire, but a few factors "tempered" those concerns...

• GLA has been in business a very long time and I looked closely at Steve's build quality and seams. I was very impressed.
• In my research, I was unable to find any reference to a large GLA tank failing.
• The tank is not rimless, rather it is fitted with a top frame. I had Steve upgrade the cross braces to acrylic to remove any shadowing concerns (especially with the Kessils.)
• This build is only 22" high, so it's under far less stress than a typical 320 build.
• Steve does extensive internal glass bracing along the bottom of the tank.

The fact they are building the tank, sump and stand and delivering/placing all was also a comfort.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Just ordered my tank a week ago from Steve as well. Can't wait to talk to you about this on Thursday. Sounds like a fun build.

Thanks zenom - Looking forward to Thursday. Made a bit of progress (sorry for the horrid cell cam pics)...

The first DC12000 arrived - it looks tiny next to the 200G tanks...


Most of the plumbing is mocked up - I'm missing one union to account for the 1 1/2" intake in the Waveline. I installed a 4X8 3/4" plywood wall that will be painted white upon which the water treatment equipment and electrical will be installed. A shelf will hold the Masterflex pumps. The 40 gallon brute will serve as a still reservoir holding Kalk for the ATO...



I picked up a 100g stock tank to aid in cleaning/curing the Pukani and will serve as a temp holding tank for my current livestock when I tear down the two existing tanks.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Got a few more things done, most importantly...

Very soon - there will be NO more buckets

 

[NZXTGUY]

Got a few more things done, most importantly...

Very soon - there will be NO more buckets

I'm gonna feel stupid but. Dual head pump ?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Constant Water Change System (CWC)

Constant Water Change System (CWC)

I'm gonna feel stupid but. Dual head pump ?

No worries, I fitted this Masterflex peristaltic pump with two pump heads which turn about a single shaft. This allows them to move very close to identical liquid volumes with very little maintenance (such as having to calibrate pumps and take-apart pump heads to perform periodic maintenance as is required in systems such as the Litermeter III.) By simply reversing the direction in which the tubing is placed in the pump head, you can have one pump "push" while the other "pulls"

This will drive the continuous water change system (CWC) - One head will remove old saltwater from the return section of the sump, while the other simultaneously adds the exact amount of new saltwater to the return section. Depending on the final lengths of each run, there may be a small difference in the exact volumes pumped. If this occurs, I'll use an pinch or IV style ramp clamp to slightly impede the faster of the two line.

Based on the amount of water being exchanged, the 200 gallon saltwater storage tank should run quite a while before requiring refilling. When the tank is new, I'll probably set it to change 20% monthly which will run for about 11 weeks before requiring refilling. As the bio-load increases, the touch of a button increases the amount of water exchanged to whatever is desired.

I've found these pumps to be nearly bulletproof as they are designed for constant duty. I've had one feeding a CaRx 24/7 for almost 5 years with no maintenance whatsoever (even the tubing is original as it runs at very low RPM.) In theory it should be provide stability for the tank and be a "set it and forget" style system (at least for a couple months at a time.)

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Prior to beginning any work on the saltwater station, I had to clear out all the items collected over the last 22 years that were stored that part of the furnace room...



I sacrificed a rarely used guest room in the basement, converting it into a storage facility....


Now with the area cleared, I could begin...


Area tiled, mounting area for water treatment equipment and pumps sealed...


Tanks put back in place...


Bottom manifold completed and installed...




Still have to drill the tops of the tanks and complete the upper manifold. Then I can begin moving the RO/DI equipment into place.

 

[muttley000]

You've been busy! How hard is it to tweet your continuous water changer? Are you running an ATO and do you anticipate problems running both?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

You've been busy! How hard is it to tweet your continuous water changer? Are you running an ATO and do you anticipate problems running both?

Thanks Muttley,

This is my first shot at a CWC, so I'm learning as I go. In theory, the Masterflex pumps (with failsafe provided by the apex) should make it very simple. The only variable I'm preparing for is a slight difference between the push and pull sides of the pump. I think it can be easily dealt with and if so, it should be largely bullet-proof.

As for the ATO, yes I always use and ATO, although I haven't decided on the hardware yet. I've had great luck with the Osmolator. I have an external socket for the Osmolator that allows the use of any pump. I'll probably use that.

The CWC should not conflict at all with the ATO as it adds and removes a very small volume simultaneously and continuously. The ATO will never sense a change in water level.

I'm still struggling on the skimmer decision. As the Vertex Alpha is not available and will be made in China when it is available, my interest has waned. I was ready to order a BK 250 Double cone when I stumbled on the RO Diablo DCS250. Good numbers, DC pump and a price point that's hard to ignore. I may try it with the neck extension and neck cleaner.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

We're making water







I filled both tanks and to my surprise, had only a couple of small leaks (fixed.) I'm elated as this was my first attempt at hard plumbing. Everthing seems to function as intended so far. I'm impressed with the Waveline 12000 - it moves an incredible amount of water and is very quiet. One small problem - I had to use raw well water to leak test the tanks which contains a fair amount of precipitated iron. I need to get the tanks and lines rinsed as soon as I've got about a 100 gallons of water made.

There is still lots to do, but at least I'm able to start making water. Next will be,

Rinse the inside of the tanks as soon as I've got enough water. I have a second, 75GDP Dow Filmtec RO membrane that I may try adding to increase the output. I'm pretty lucky, my RO running at 100 PSI generates 1 TDS water to the DI resin, so I think the second membrane will work

Fill the stock tank and start soaking the Pukani (need to get this done so I can use the tank to transfer the existing livestock.)

Clean up all the water and power line runs and run an Aquabus cable so I can gain control of the E8B

Run the Fill/Drain line (a single 3/4" line will both fill and drain the tank), CWC and ATO lines upstairs

I still have to decide on the automation. For the RO tank, A latching valve arrangement is tough as I can't get at the bottom of the tank. I'll probably use a simple float valve tied to the Apex. Turning on the RO once every couple weeks or so for just long enough to top off the tank. The Kalk/ATO tank is a bit trickier. I don't think a float or optical sensor will work well as a hard crust forms on the surface of the water. In addition, vinegar has to be added with each fill. For the time being, I'll probably just fill it manually. It should be a weekly item and only requires opening a single valve. I've got a bunch of BRS top-off and dosing pumps on hand - I'll work on automating the top off and vinegar add once everything else is done

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

I installed the second RO membrane. With ~310TDS softened, working water, it's now producing about 150 GPD, but the RO product water did increase to 3TDS. I'm shocked it's working as well as it is - in fact, I assumed the inline TDS meters might have been wrong but my hand-held provided the same results. I'll gladly accept the 3TDS as the SpectraPure SilcaBuster and MaxCap DI resin works very well.

Here's a quick video showing the flow on the Waveline DC12000 running at full-output. This is looking down through the cover on one of the 200 gallon tanks (~7' head) with 1 1/4" plumbing...

 

[muttley000]

That thing really moves the water!

 

[SPotter]

looks awesome Tom. I have similar water storage tanks and I put a pvc pipe almost to the bottom of my tank with a "T" on the bottom so it would stir the water on the bottom and prevent any salt from settling down there.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

That thing really moves the water!

For such a small pump, it rocks

Great job Tom! I'll be watching.

Thanks, me too

looks awesome Tom. I have similar water storage tanks and I put a pvc pipe almost to the bottom of my tank with a "T" on the bottom so it would stir the water on the bottom and prevent any salt from settling down there.

Thanks Steve, that's a great idea. I haven't decided how to terminate the return pipes yet as I wanted to see the mixing impact of 3000 GPH. It's quite turbulent when the tanks are near empty, but I think the "T" will mix better when they are full.

 

[zachogden]

Very excited to see this build. Keep us posted on MR too!

 

[smilonas]

Great job on all the stuff you've posted over the last few weeks. I went into GLA last Friday and Steve was awesome. Told him I already had a tank setup and was just in there poking around and he still spent well over an hour talking to me about the systems he has set up, lessons learned and showed me a bunch of new products. Kudos on your decision to have him build your tank and sump...I know you will not be disappointed!

I live in Warren and if you get to the point where you don't mind showing of your setup to folks, I would love to come by some time and check it all out.

Keep up the good work!

Stacy

:beer:

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Very excited to see this build. Keep us posted on MR too!

Thanks zachogden - Will do

...I live in Warren and if you get to the point where you don't mind showing of your setup to folks, I would love to come by some time and check it all out.

Keep up the good work!

Stacy

:beer:

Thanks Stacy, I look forward to the point where I can share the system with fellow Michigan reefers!