Can 20K XMs match Radiums for color?

Good point. I think that the firing and cooldown periods put more wear and tear on a bulb than running them (another thing to consider). IE: a bulb that is run 24/7 should theoretically have a better lifespan than one that is turned on and off each day.

At least that's my understanding - I could be wrong.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7653982#post7653982 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snslarison
mmotown,

I think so. If I'm not mistaken, the XM 20K outperformed the Hamilton 14K in PAR ratings.

So if 20k's are that blue I should supplement white white vho's or are 20k's not that blue.
 
has ne1 tried 20k xm with 2 10k vhos? would this give me the pop im looking for with the 20kz and the growth with the 10k vho? if i suplement the 20kz with 2 vho super actinics would that be too blue?
 
just changed out my xm 250 20k with same after 9 ths running for 12 hrs a day except 11 hrs for the last month - this is a pic looking thru my fan ports with camera at 250 speed f3.6 - top row is after 9mths; bottom row is after 5 minutes - pic of my tank with 8 mths bulb usuage is up further in the thread or in gallery
49068change_at_9_mths_xm250_20k_r_.jpg
 
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It sure is tough to eyeball the bulb or light to see how the Kelvin Temp is holding with a bulb! I spoke with Eric Bornemat at IMC in Chicago. He says there is no such thing as a TRUE 20K bulb....Only 10K with high blue spikes! I was wondering how they could be sold as 20K? Sounds like fraud to me! Oh well..I guess EVERYONE has an opinion!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7657299#post7657299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by salt-rookie
It sure is tough to eyeball the bulb or light to see how the Kelvin Temp is holding with a bulb! I spoke with Eric Bornemat at IMC in Chicago. He says there is no such thing as a TRUE 20K bulb....Only 10K with high blue spikes! I was wondering how they could be sold as 20K? Sounds like fraud to me! Oh well..I guess EVERYONE has an opinion!

Most of the 10K bulbs arent even close to 10K either. The ratings on bulbs are nothing but marketing speek. The only bulb I've seen thats really close to the color temp labeled is the 175w iwasaki 15K.


As far as blue, 20K bulbs have very little. They have a TON of violet though. Thats why Greg's lighting setup is so nice. TONS of violet fromt he 20K XMS, and tons of Blue from the phoenixs.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7657683#post7657683 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley

As far as blue, 20K bulbs have very little. They have a TON of violet though.

Most 20k bulbs have a ton of blue - 450nm. Violet is 420nm. Look at the spectral graphs on Sanjay's site.
 
for the most part the color temps on bulbs are marketing. they give you a general idea of how blue it is going to appear to the naked eye. Sanjay has studies that do show the true color temps of the bulbs in some cases.
 
I kept going back and forth between running these or a insanely large T-5 system. The simplicty of the MH on a tank this big was a big factor. Then Mike Paletta came and talked to GIRS about SPS coloration. The basic jist of it as far as coloration was "bright and blue". Not just bright but bright and blue was needed to hold peak color in SPS. Seem to be working for me.

You should have come to the auction Matt. I got like 6 good SPS frags for a $29.
 
Guys,
Regarding 250watters, which SE 20k bulb works and looks best with Icecap ballast?
I´m currently Running 2 x 400w radiums with PFOHQI and 2 x 250w 14k hamis with icecap.
It´s almost time to change the hamis and want a better bulb but don´t want to spend the money and electricity on another 400w watters
Thanks
Mark
 
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