can pipefish take the heat?

Jason7504

New member
i know that seahorses can't have temp above 77 to help prevent a bacteria outbreak but is it the same for pipefish?
 
ok but can dragon face pipefish take 77-78 degree water?

Yes. My tank sits just under 78 degrees and my little dragon faced is doing fantastic.

The tank temperature for seahorses actually depends on what species you have. Tropical, Subtropical, & Temperate species all have different recommendations... most of the common species are tropical and fall into the 74-78 degrees recommendation.

Hope that helps!
 
The tank temperature for seahorses actually depends on what species you have. Tropical, Subtropical, & Temperate species all have different recommendations... most of the common species are tropical and fall into the 74-78 degrees recommendation

We'll have to agree to disagree on this one. In the wild, yes.... tropical seahorses can be found in waters 78F+. It is not recommended to keep even tropical species at those temps in the little glass boxes we call aquariums. Even tropical species, in home aquariums, should be kept at 74F max...as rayjay stated.

Tom
 
It's not that the pipefish/seahorse can't take warmer waters, as indeed, most come from water warmer than 74°, it's because the biggest nemesis of seahorses, bacteria (like vibriosis for example) multiply exponentially with each rising degree temperature of the water.
It's also not that there aren't syngnathids kept in tanks at those temperature.
It's the fact that for every one successfully kept at higher temperature, many many more die in the attempt to do so.
Your odds are immeasurably increased by keeping the tank water in the 68° to 74°F range.
 
i wouldn't keep all pipes above 74*F, just flagfins and DF's. the rest i'd keep at SH temps.
 
BTW, i kept my Janss' in my reef at 77*F. i've never been one of those peeps who keep their reefs at 80*F+.
 
My bluestripes are in a reef that ranges from 80 - 82 and are fine and breed constantly (knock on wood, I don't want to jinx myself)
 
I've been trying to figure out how to collect the fry. I've built a larval snagger but so far only collected two. One of the big problems I'm having is that I don't know when the male is releasing; he's pretty much constantly carrying eggs. They must mate as soon as the fry are released. The two I caught were at seemingly random times and haven't been indicative of what their cycle is.
 
Perhaps once you notice him carring eggs you could move him into a birthing tank until he releases the fry?

That may end up being what I need to do. However, its a reef set up, and it will be a challenge to figure out how I am going to get the male out. There is no way catching him via a net is going to work, I've see these guys literally wedge themselves into crevices where they hang upside-down on a piece of live rock that is out of the water (I had to move the tank and remove the live rock about a year ago).

I've been considering training them to a feeding station of some sort; something that they have to go into to eat, that can be closed off. But this is sort of a last resort idea - I'm afraid it will work exactly once.

The fry are attracted to light, and I think that's where the larval snagger is failing right now, I haven't managed to set up the right light to collect them, or the right schedule. At least that's what I think is happening. So I play with the lights every week or so. It works well to collect clownfish fry, and hermit crab larvae. Its also possible that I need to turn off the pumps in the tank when its running. If the fry aren't strong enough swimmers, they might be getting swept away before they can even get to the light (other than the two that have made it, of course).
 
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