Canon Power Shot.
- Thread starter JohnDinSD
- Start date
TitusvileSurfer
New member
Haha good for you. Now blast away with questions before the big day.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
So lets see some results!
TitusvileSurfer
New member
This is the best book your going to find:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=17
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=17
TitusvileSurfer
New member
Yeah the white balance does look a little blue. To combat this just shift the color over to the red side a little bit. I am not exactly sure what program you are using, and therefor what your adjuster looks like, but I am sure it is there.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
That is a neat tank you have there. Your going to get shots even better than the zoanthid in the near future to be sure.
If I only knew where to start. Thanks for the link to the G series forum. I also bought some Dummies books on digital photography. I managed to fix the white balance some by shooting at a piece of wax paper on the glass, worked better than coffee filter. How can I improve the quality and clarity of the pictures.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
Well the whole point of RAW is that the camera doesn't edit the picture for you. You will need to learn and hone some basic editing skills. RAW editing is nothing fancy it makes a world of difference. For starters the image seems overexposed. Notice how your grayish purplish rock is bleach white in some instances. The coral on the bottom left of the frame looks like a dying skeleton. I am sure the coral is fine, but lets bring some of its true colors out.
You should notice an "exposure meter" somewhere on the camera. I am not sure exactly where this will be, consult your owners manual. On a DSLR, this is found in the viewfinder on the bottom center. The exposure meter will tell you whether the camera believes your image will be properly exposed, or not too bright/not too dark. The exposure meter will look something like -2..-1..0..1..2 and if you think the image is too bright, lowering the exposure -1 stop (from 0 to -1), or -2/3 stop would have given a better image.
Exposure is composed of 3 competing elements:
Shutter Speed:
The shutter speed of the above photograph was 1/30 of a second. This number represents how fast the process of gathering the necessary light for a proper exposure took. In general, unless you are looking for a special effect, more is better. Shutter Speed effect movement of objects, either freezing them in place or showing a blurred streak. Shutter Speed also illustrates movement of the camera itself. Too low of a shutter speed requires a tripod.
Aperture:
Aperture is basically how wide your lens is. a lower aperture number i.e. f/2.8 is a larger opening than a smaller number i.e. f/5.6. Aperture determines how much of the image, in front and back of the focus point, is actually in focus. This is referred to as Depth Of Field, or DOF. Lower apertures allow faster shutter speeds.
Your aperture was f/3.2, which is pretty wide. The sensor in your camera is very small, so the DOF effects of aperture will be much less apparent.
ISO:
Always, always, always start with ISO 100. this determines how sensitive your sensor is to light and creates speckles all over the image if raised too high. I wouldn't bother going over...say...ISO 400 with a G10 or any other camera like it.
Now your aperture was pretty wide but the whole tank seemed to be in focus, so lets keep that. The photograph was too bright, and increasing the shutter speed will both darken the image and in theory sharpen it up a bit.
In RAW, it is your main job is to correct the white balance (how far off the colors look), resize the image to desired dimensions, and sharpen the image. There are other useful features available in RAW, but lets tackle the basics first.
------
Homework:
Research these terms in your owners manual, the G-series forum I showed you, and finally Goggle. Come back here with anything your not sure of, and I will be happy to lead you in the right direction.
*Exposure (how bright/dark the image will be)
*Metering (how the camera determines the correct exposure)
*Histogram (a bar graph showing how much of the picture will be too bright [like your rock] or too dark [like the top left corner of the tank])
*Exposure Compensation (how to determine if the metering of the camera is right and how to fix it with the exposure meter)
For example, a green tree will usually fool a camera into making the image 2/3 of a stop too bright. So meter off the tree and select -2/3 on your exposure meter for a "proper exposure".
---------------
I could go on but I think that is enough for now. Basically your 1st priority is to understand exposure, what it is and what it does. Your 2nd priority is to understand metering, which is how you control exposure.
You should notice an "exposure meter" somewhere on the camera. I am not sure exactly where this will be, consult your owners manual. On a DSLR, this is found in the viewfinder on the bottom center. The exposure meter will tell you whether the camera believes your image will be properly exposed, or not too bright/not too dark. The exposure meter will look something like -2..-1..0..1..2 and if you think the image is too bright, lowering the exposure -1 stop (from 0 to -1), or -2/3 stop would have given a better image.
Exposure is composed of 3 competing elements:
Shutter Speed:
The shutter speed of the above photograph was 1/30 of a second. This number represents how fast the process of gathering the necessary light for a proper exposure took. In general, unless you are looking for a special effect, more is better. Shutter Speed effect movement of objects, either freezing them in place or showing a blurred streak. Shutter Speed also illustrates movement of the camera itself. Too low of a shutter speed requires a tripod.
Aperture:
Aperture is basically how wide your lens is. a lower aperture number i.e. f/2.8 is a larger opening than a smaller number i.e. f/5.6. Aperture determines how much of the image, in front and back of the focus point, is actually in focus. This is referred to as Depth Of Field, or DOF. Lower apertures allow faster shutter speeds.
Your aperture was f/3.2, which is pretty wide. The sensor in your camera is very small, so the DOF effects of aperture will be much less apparent.
ISO:
Always, always, always start with ISO 100. this determines how sensitive your sensor is to light and creates speckles all over the image if raised too high. I wouldn't bother going over...say...ISO 400 with a G10 or any other camera like it.
Now your aperture was pretty wide but the whole tank seemed to be in focus, so lets keep that. The photograph was too bright, and increasing the shutter speed will both darken the image and in theory sharpen it up a bit.
In RAW, it is your main job is to correct the white balance (how far off the colors look), resize the image to desired dimensions, and sharpen the image. There are other useful features available in RAW, but lets tackle the basics first.
------
Homework:
Research these terms in your owners manual, the G-series forum I showed you, and finally Goggle. Come back here with anything your not sure of, and I will be happy to lead you in the right direction.
*Exposure (how bright/dark the image will be)
*Metering (how the camera determines the correct exposure)
*Histogram (a bar graph showing how much of the picture will be too bright [like your rock] or too dark [like the top left corner of the tank])
*Exposure Compensation (how to determine if the metering of the camera is right and how to fix it with the exposure meter)
For example, a green tree will usually fool a camera into making the image 2/3 of a stop too bright. So meter off the tree and select -2/3 on your exposure meter for a "proper exposure".
---------------
I could go on but I think that is enough for now. Basically your 1st priority is to understand exposure, what it is and what it does. Your 2nd priority is to understand metering, which is how you control exposure.
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