Pumps eat things and quit. You can't be buying a new pump (although if you have the funds, having a main pump in reserve is not a bad idea) every time you have a glitch.
If you look at the pump's business end, the outflow, very frequently either the cover for the outflow simply unscrews with a turn, or, in the larger pumps, especially the non-submersibles, you're facing a plate with 5-6 little screws. Remove these, put them into a dish where they won't go walkabout, and examine the 'impeller,' a rod that will resist being pulled out, because magnets are holding it. Pull anyway. It will go back very readily.
What's the sign a pump needs help? When you remember the flow being a lot better than it is now.
In little Maxijet pumps, there is a windmill style impeller that you should have spares of. You can buy them. Drop a new one in, screw the cover back on and you're good to go.
In others, like, for instance, the Iwaki, the massive impeller shaft is not designed to be replaced, but it can (a) eat a small snail and greatly reduce its 'pocket' space... or (b) it can crud up with calcium carbonate...especially if you've overfed alkalinity buffer due to a dead test kit (ask me how I know...)
Snails or weed are easily removed.
To remove old grunge and white grunge, a soak in straight white vinegar for 8 hours (usually a safe stand-down for a tank that's not overstocked) can remove the problem.
If you absolutely don't see how to service the pump, 8 hours running in a pot of white vinegar may cure the problem, if it was a bit of white gunk.
Anybody who has experience with disassembly and cleaning of other brands, chime in. I'll say I haven't yet had to investigate the Eheim: tough little birds. Mag Five's and such I think is much like the Iwaki: remove several screws and gain access, but my memory is foggy on those.
The main thing is, never mind the rest of the pump, which is sealed for a reason: your user-fixable problems are going to be in the impeller chamber, which is designed to be user-serviced. The main thing is---do not work over an open drain, into which a screw can escape, and be sure you have those bolts safely in a little cup or dish or even stuck to a strip of tape.
Second point: be sure that the screwdriver you use exactly fits the head of the screw: Phillips drivers or even straight slot drivers come in various sizes, and if you use the wrong one, you can damage the head of the screw and be sorry about that the next time you have to service it. If you have any doubt, take the pump to your hardware store and ask them to sell you the right screwdriver.
Third point: if you come across a gasket (round rubber ring) anywhere, be very careful to see exactly how and where it fit before you allow it to come out. Lay it aside, and hopefully you will find it is perfectly intact. Remember to put it back exactly the same as you reassemble the pump. You can clean it, but do not misplace it. It is there for a reason.
In general, go step by step, work in a flat, well lighted area, and keep track of pieces. Losing one is about all that reasonably can go wrong in the job.
If you look at the pump's business end, the outflow, very frequently either the cover for the outflow simply unscrews with a turn, or, in the larger pumps, especially the non-submersibles, you're facing a plate with 5-6 little screws. Remove these, put them into a dish where they won't go walkabout, and examine the 'impeller,' a rod that will resist being pulled out, because magnets are holding it. Pull anyway. It will go back very readily.
What's the sign a pump needs help? When you remember the flow being a lot better than it is now.
In little Maxijet pumps, there is a windmill style impeller that you should have spares of. You can buy them. Drop a new one in, screw the cover back on and you're good to go.
In others, like, for instance, the Iwaki, the massive impeller shaft is not designed to be replaced, but it can (a) eat a small snail and greatly reduce its 'pocket' space... or (b) it can crud up with calcium carbonate...especially if you've overfed alkalinity buffer due to a dead test kit (ask me how I know...)
Snails or weed are easily removed.
To remove old grunge and white grunge, a soak in straight white vinegar for 8 hours (usually a safe stand-down for a tank that's not overstocked) can remove the problem.
If you absolutely don't see how to service the pump, 8 hours running in a pot of white vinegar may cure the problem, if it was a bit of white gunk.
Anybody who has experience with disassembly and cleaning of other brands, chime in. I'll say I haven't yet had to investigate the Eheim: tough little birds. Mag Five's and such I think is much like the Iwaki: remove several screws and gain access, but my memory is foggy on those.
The main thing is, never mind the rest of the pump, which is sealed for a reason: your user-fixable problems are going to be in the impeller chamber, which is designed to be user-serviced. The main thing is---do not work over an open drain, into which a screw can escape, and be sure you have those bolts safely in a little cup or dish or even stuck to a strip of tape.
Second point: be sure that the screwdriver you use exactly fits the head of the screw: Phillips drivers or even straight slot drivers come in various sizes, and if you use the wrong one, you can damage the head of the screw and be sorry about that the next time you have to service it. If you have any doubt, take the pump to your hardware store and ask them to sell you the right screwdriver.
Third point: if you come across a gasket (round rubber ring) anywhere, be very careful to see exactly how and where it fit before you allow it to come out. Lay it aside, and hopefully you will find it is perfectly intact. Remember to put it back exactly the same as you reassemble the pump. You can clean it, but do not misplace it. It is there for a reason.
In general, go step by step, work in a flat, well lighted area, and keep track of pieces. Losing one is about all that reasonably can go wrong in the job.
