Center brace

[Bathel]

I have a 45 GAL AGA tank that has a plastic center brace. I just purchased a new MH light system that has a 150 in the center of the system. The center brace tends to block a good portion of the light from entering the tank (at least it seems to). Would it be ok to cut the center brace, or would this put too much outward pressure on the tank walls and cause a failure? Keep in mind that this tank is 24" tall base to cap.

 

[m2434]

If you search around you may find some DIY mods, but it is certainly best to leave it for the reasons you mentioned.

 

[Michael]

centre brace

centre brace

hi bathel i would strongly advise you to leave it be, the brace is there to hold the tank stable, if you imagine the water is pushing against the sides with its volume and the brace stops the tank being forced outwards, unless you can secure it another way, i cant think of 1 at present i wouldnt risk it

 

[Toddrtrex]

Many many many years ago I had a 55 with a center brace. It snapped one morning ( thank god I hadn't left for work yet ), and I was shocked at how much the tank bowed when that happened. Didn't think that glass could bend that much with out breaking. I am sure that if I hadn't started to remove water that it would have broke. So I would suggest against removing it unless you are putting in a glass replacement.

 

[Michael]

great advice toddrtrex, great advice, seems as though you were lucky:thumbsup:

 

[Toddrtrex]

Thanks Mike. Lucky and lazy. I was running late that day because I over slept.

 

[DNickell]

I recently had the center brace pull lose on a 120 gallon tank. I saw it was pulling loose and was attempting to reinforce it when it snapped.

As mentioned above, the amount of bow in the class can be amazing, and scary. I rushed out to the shop (I'm on a farm so I have lots of toys laying around) and got a long carpenter's clamp to put on the tank. I drained the water down into the sump to take off pressure, then pulled the sides back in as far as I was willing to risk it. I was assuming that if I could just stabalize the glass with as little bow-strain as possible I would be safe.

I used a band saw to make two reinforced wooden braces--one about a foot on either side of where the original single brace had been--and painted them to match the tank's top. These were cut very precisely to hold the sides without allowing any further bowing.

This has worked, so far, without problem. My big concern was that the new braces would create shadows from my halide lights. The good news is that with two pendants and good reflectors (Ice Cap) light fills in the shadows to the extent that they are not noticible to the human eye. My corals don't seem to notice, either. I actually get more light effect from the egg crate I have on top of the tank, which makes shafts of light that are barely visible when viewing from certain angles. With the ripples from water movement this is actually a cool effect.

So, if the shadow from your center brace is a problem, you might consider going to two light sources on either side of it. Or, as a LAST resort, brace the tank on either side of the center brace and then cut it out.

I would recommend against cutting on the original tank brace except as a last resort of desparation. Any cutting can only weaken the tank.

 

[silverking]

you can cut it out no problem. leave about 2 inches on each end. drill a hole in each tab. get some stainless steel rod, something small i got mine from a welding supply shop. take a pair of pliers and twist a couple of loops on each end. get some stainless steel hardware screw washer and nut tighten it and your good to go. cost less than 5 bucks. mine has been good for 2 years now. and no shadows from a single halide over the middle of the tank.

i also did this while the tank was filled. i just made a brace out of wood to be safe although i don't think i really needed it. it only took about 10 minutes to do

 

[dew9000]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12463983#post12463983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by silverking
you can cut it out no problem. leave about 2 inches on each end. drill a hole in each tab. get some stainless steel rod, something small i got mine from a welding supply shop. take a pair of pliers and twist a couple of loops on each end. get some stainless steel hardware screw washer and nut tighten it and your good to go. cost less than 5 bucks. mine has been good for 2 years now. and no shadows from a single halide over the middle of the tank.

i also did this while the tank was filled. i just made a brace out of wood to be safe although i don't think i really needed it. it only took about 10 minutes to do

Even better yet.... I have heard of doing somthing simlilar but instead of using a metal rod use a piece of clear acrylic similar to the original brace and attach it with plastic screws.

 

[silverking]

i don't know why you would want to use plastic screws. steel is much better. and cost of the ss rod to acrylic, the rod should be no more than a few bucks if that.

 

[DNickell]

Replacing with a rod brace does sound like a good idea.

Just for safety's sake I would recommend clamping or bracing some how while you get the new brace in place. Better safe than hearing the tank wall crack!

It will likely cost more than the new bracing material, but you can get a carpenter's clamp at Home Depot or some such place that will easily provide all the support you need until the job is done.

The thought of my 120 gallon tank forming a tidal wave in my living room still sends chills up my spine. When my brace broke lose and I watched the tank wall bow, I've never made it out to the shop and back to the house so quick. Even old guys can run fast when properly inspired.

 

[Bathel]

Thanks for the replys. A good idea to use a SS rod, wish I was out of the box enough to think of that.

For now, I think I'll leave it be and see how things go. I guess it gives me some options of placing lower light seeking critters in the shade.... After a few months I'll consider the SS rod trick.

On a side note, the MH bulb that came wth the Outer Orbit 150 MH/CF/LED light seems to be more like "Natural" sunlight in color to me... I'm not sure I'm 100% happy with that look. Before I had a 10k CF and Dual Actinic light that seemed to make the colors "POP" more. What Dual ended MH bulb would you recommend to help with the color pop (or is it better to keep what I have)?

 

[DLANDINO]

I was looking at a MH light with the one fixture in the center but, like you am limited because of the center brace. I would have bought it if it weren't for the guy in the LFS. He asked if I had a center brace. Luckily for me he did because I didn't even think about it blocking the light. I am looking at a two fixture system for my 46 bow front. It has two 150 MH's on the right and left of the setup as well as t5's on the front and back. Marinedepot told me that going with this set up would pyt an extra 2-3 degrees in the tank water during peak hours. I am comfortable with that and can always add a fan if necessary.

Current USA 36 inch Outer Orbit 2x150w 10K HQI-MH w/ 4x39W T5 HO & 18 Lunar Lights
Availability: Usually ships the same business day

Item Code: CU01071
List Price: $924.95
You Save: $204.96 (22%)
Our Price: $719.99 + $18.00*

 

[Bathel]

Yeah, I looked at that setup, but that was more than I wanted to spend at this time. This light will move to a different tank in a few years and I'll replace it with LED (if they ever come down in price). I still get a good fill of light in the tank with the center brace, but it does dim in the center...

BTW, that setup is onsale now $ 615.99 at Drs. F&S.
36" 469 watts 2-150 watt 4-39 watt 9 blue & 9 white.

Here is a picture of my setup, sorry for the blur... not tripod and no flash used.