CF lighting in a 40 gal

saltbox19

New member
I realize this type of question gets quite monotonous for those of you in the know, but please humour us newbies as it seems lighting is one of the most important considerations in a clam tank. :)

That said, here is my question: I want to set up a reef tank in a 40 breeder (36"x18"x16") with a 29 gallon functioning as a sump/refugium. I may or may not use a deep sand bed in the display tank, so the substrate depth will be either 1" or 4" deep. I would like to use a lighting fixture with 4x96W CF (3:1 ratio of 10K and actinic) and moon lights.

Is this sufficient lighting for T. maxima and T. crocea?

Thanks.
 
Most people would tell you no, that is not enough light for maxima and crocea. A single 250 or 400W MH over that tank could be outstanding.
 
I agree. It's not enough. I've had 2x65 over a 15 gallon long...it wasn't enough to keep a squamosa happy....he was ok, but not happy. The second a 175w MH bulb went over it he was happy. (And that was a squamosa, not a maxima or derasa) I've seen it time and time again in other's tanks.

Why not get MH? You can keep anything, realls, where the CF would not allow that.
You could keep deerasa or squamosa (or hippopus) just steer clear of the others. Good luck!
 
Thanks to you both for you input. My main concern with a halide system was heat build-up from the halides requiring a chiller to be added. This is not an attractive option as this tank will be going in my bedroom where the noise of a chiller may be an issue. However, the more input I get, the more I believe I can control the heat of a pendant CF/halide system with my window unit A/C. If I go with the halides, I will probably get something in the neighborhood of 2x250 W halides (10K-14K) and 2x96 W CF actinics (plus moon lights). This may be a little on the high side, but in order to prevent salt creep and jumping fish from redecorating my room and to maintain marital harmony, a glass cover will be used over the tank. I think the higher light will help compensate for this.

Thanks again for your advice.
 
You are right. Pendants are less heat than hoods are. I have sucessfully used a single 250W over a 40 - about 6" off the water. Keep the SPS and clams in the middle, softies on the edge.

I would avoid the PCs if possible. They are as much heat as a MH. Choose a MH bulb that you like the color of without the PC atinics. The 14K and 15K bulbs are very nice for most people. Save you 192W of electricity and a LOT of heat.

Try and avoid the glass top if possible... but you probably know that. Fish should not just that much if they are not spooked and salt creep can be avoided by wiping your tank down every week with a cloth. Also, evaporating water can help cool a tank too. You will cut down on this with a glass top.
 
Agreed. My old PCs added a tremendous amount of heat compared to my MH pendants. I have 350 watts of MH over a 29 with no fans, no chiller, etc. Just plan ahead and you need no chiller, etc.
 
Oh, and I agree about the glass top. You will have more salt creep problems with one then without, and more heat problems.
 
Concerning the glass top, I agree that I would rather be without it, however my wife wants it. It will be simple enough to try to convince her that we can do without it once we have it on and can try it both ways. Again, it is a concession that must be made for purposes of marital bliss.

If I go without the CF lights, I may try to add a little more wattage to the halides, just in case I am unable to convince my wife of the merits of going topless.;)
 
IMO - a double ended 250 pendant, or a 400W single ended pendant should be more than enough light to do whatever you want in that tank. Just 1 is enough.

Good luck.
 

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