Chalice Delight Tank
- Thread starter Stylaster
- Start date
very nice... looks like a healthy addiction to me!
chrischin29g
o^__^o<-- MY PLUGS
Nice!! Is picture number 7 a chalice?
nano_reefer10
New member
This is, like the others said...a BEAUTIFUL tank!
Stylaster
New member
That is cyphastrea japonica (aka minefield cyphastrea) It has a really neat growth form with all those plates
Cantgrowdidly
New member
Inspiring
Susan Telli
New member
Nice collection! I have my own collection of a few chalices too. Lately, some of them developed tissue receeding starting from the margins and some had lost their colors. This all happened after I moved them to my display tank. They were all fine and growing when I kept them in my DSB sump a few months ago. I'm not sure whether it is becuase of bright light, water flow/quality, or infections. I tried to look up online but it seems like there's no clear answer. Do you have any suggestions?
Stylaster
New member
I am thinking light shock, most of my chalices are kept very low and not directly under my halides. I would keep them on the bottom of your tank in shaded area. Try to feed them at night when the tentacles are out. Most chalices dont do well in SPS style tanks. The bright light and ultra low nutrients aren't ideal for them. After talking to collectors in Indo-pacific they say that most chalice style corals are collected in 40-60 feet of water or if shallower they grow under ledges and overhangs. I believe that they are naturally low light corals and do best with light spectrum more toward the blue end. That's why i run 20k radiums
rolyguy7
Member
I had this happen years ago when I first started collecting chalices. In my case it was phosphates levels being too high. Some chalices receded while others were fine. Some lost their colors as well and darken to brownish colors. I tested all my water parameters and everything tested within optimal specs. I suspected something had to be wrong and that one of my test kits may have gone bad and giving me incorrect readings. I specifically suspected the phosphate test kit since I had experience a similar behavior once years ago.
My local reef store confirmed my suspicions. My phosphates were over 2ppm. I used GFO to bring the phosphate levels back down to 0ppm. Once the phosphate levels were below 1ppm I could see the chalices in question starting to perk up and heal and their colors started to return. It took several months but they all fully recovered, grew back over the receding area and fully colored up to their original colors.
Well that was my experience, hope it helps some. I do not enjoy losing any corals but especially chalices. They are my favorite.
I haven't lost a coral in years mostly in part because I watch my water parameters especially my phosphate levels these days like a hawk. I even keep two different manufacturer phosphate kits at home at all times and alternate between the two every week just to make sure I don't end up with some bad readings. I also keep a keen eye on all of my coral daily looking for any signs that may point to a possible issue or concern. Hope you identify the problem and correct it soon. The sooner the better. Early detection and quickly correcting the problem has always given me the best results in my experience in this hobby.
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Stylaster
New member
Here is a listing of equipment that keeps the system running
RO/DI unit, left is freshwater 55g barrel, center is saltwater 55g barrel, right is kalkreactor tied into a float switch for water evap replacement
Closed loop plumbing, the pipe in the wall goes to the garage to do easy water changes and hold the line to the kalkreactor
Dart pump to keep closed loop running
Calcium reactor and remote deep sand bed (ie 5 gallon bucket filled with fine sand and very slow water movement through it)
Pipes for closed loop and seaswirls that are plumbed to the ehiem 1260 return pump in the sump
Ocean motion 4 way water diverter for the closed loop
Sump and reef octopus protien skimmer
two 250w 20k radium halides and one 4 blue bulb led moon light
RO/DI unit, left is freshwater 55g barrel, center is saltwater 55g barrel, right is kalkreactor tied into a float switch for water evap replacement
Closed loop plumbing, the pipe in the wall goes to the garage to do easy water changes and hold the line to the kalkreactor
Dart pump to keep closed loop running
Calcium reactor and remote deep sand bed (ie 5 gallon bucket filled with fine sand and very slow water movement through it)
Pipes for closed loop and seaswirls that are plumbed to the ehiem 1260 return pump in the sump
Ocean motion 4 way water diverter for the closed loop
Sump and reef octopus protien skimmer
two 250w 20k radium halides and one 4 blue bulb led moon light
usatennisfan
New member
I've been looking to get some chalice frags but I don't know where to go that is very reputable. Have any suggestions?
xdannyxrocksx
New member
Amazing collection I say frag them up
