Check value before gate valve? Need answer asap
- Thread starter Dseg
- Start date
jgoodrich71
Premium Member
You want to go:
Pump-> gate valve -> bulkhead
You want to design the setup so you are not relying on a check valve to keep from overflowing you sump. Check valves are notorious for not working, especially ones that are normally open.
Pump-> gate valve -> bulkhead
You want to design the setup so you are not relying on a check valve to keep from overflowing you sump. Check valves are notorious for not working, especially ones that are normally open.
kcrush4989
New member
Either way is fine. I put the check. Valve closest to the pump so less water goes into the sump.
Thanks guys but I guess I was not clear. The gate valve is to restrict the water flow a little bit from the pump. So is it best to put the check before or after that gate valve? The check valve is just a nice to have, I am not relying on it. But would the check valve work better if the the water was coming from the restricted gate valve or bulkhead? So:
Pump -> check valve -> gate valve -> bulkhead
Or:
Pump -> gate valve -> check valve -> bulkhea
Pump -> check valve -> gate valve -> bulkhead
Or:
Pump -> gate valve -> check valve -> bulkhea
biocube14g
New member
IMO, I would say Pump-gate-check-bulk
The reason I'm saying that is so if there is a buildup of whatever in the check, hopefully the back pressure will break it free if it is stuck... Being the other way, I would be concerned that their might not be enough flow to break free any buildup in the check and not close it all the way, seeming at first it is closed, but leaking still to give you a wet floor when you return.
The reason I'm saying that is so if there is a buildup of whatever in the check, hopefully the back pressure will break it free if it is stuck... Being the other way, I would be concerned that their might not be enough flow to break free any buildup in the check and not close it all the way, seeming at first it is closed, but leaking still to give you a wet floor when you return.
biocube14g
New member
Double post
Last edited:
FishNFun
New member
This makes no sense. In a properly designed set up a check valve is NOT needed period so it's not "nice to have". If you're not relying on it then it's unnecessary and can/should be removed.
Agreed. I think we havent made ourselves clear. How can I put this.....no check valve needed, its not necessary, dont use it, leave it at the store.
Your gate valve or ball valve will do more than enough to adjust the flow.
ridetheducati
20 and Over Club
jgoodrich71
Premium Member
I don't think it matters if the check valve or the gate valve is first. If you are going to use one, make it easy to remove and clean.
krzyphsygy
Active member
It was stated by the op it is for their own preferance so the whole amount of water does not drain into the sump. Theres nothing wrong with that. I perfer that as well. I do not want 40 gallons of water in my sump while the pump is off. It failing has nothing to do with what was asked here.
I use a check valve for this reason. I use it this way : pump-check valve-ball valve.
I use a check valve for this reason. I use it this way : pump-check valve-ball valve.
It sounds like your system would be fine without a check valve but you want one so your skimmer is a bit less annoying to deal with. When the check valve fails (and it will constantly) you still won't overflow your sump (although the skimmer might act up) right?
In any case I would make sure your check valve was easily removed for cleaning.
Check valve will fail. I've tried it before. The problem is the slow water coming back down from the display tank to the sump. The slowness of the water flow would cause the water to seep through the check valve. The check valve works for strong water flow but a slow flow would render it ineffective. Save your money for something else.
MGM_
New member
Check valve is great for preventing the bubblethon when you kick pump back on. Especially if you have basement mounted sump. I was tired of a tank full of microbubbles when I restarted my pump. Buy a clear true union check valve that can be serviced. Check valve is def not replacement for proper sump sizing. You want pump, gate valve then check valve AFTER the pump. Do not restrict pump inlet with check valve and best if check valve is in vertical position.
MGM_
New member
When I restart the pump I am pushing 40 gpm through a 1.5" x 14'0 long riser line. This creates massive bubbles that push into my DT. The check valve keeps my riser full and restart is very smooth. The check valve causes no problems as my sump is designed to handle backflow should it fail. Also came in handy when my ATO overfilled my sump and I lost power to my pump. As long as your sump is designed properly and the check valve is added as an "extra" bonus is will cause no problems and will add convenience OP is looking for.
BTW.. What happens when a snail is covering that 1/4" pinhole?
BTW.. What happens when a snail is covering that 1/4" pinhole?
