Check Valve for Osmolator?

[carb850]

I need a check valve to put in line with my Osmolator to keep from getting backflow. I checked my local Lowes but they didn't carry anything like that. Any suggestions on places to look?

Thanks.

 

[shawnz28]

I would not trust a check valve, sooner or later all will fail. I assume you mean the flow keeps running after the pump shuts off? If so I recommend pumping to the main tank which is almost always higher than the resivior the pump is pulling from. I had mine pumping into my overflow in my reef ready tank.

 

[Bryan]

I am using the Tunze check valve and works fine, but yes one day it will fail as they all do

 

[carb850]

I have the Osmolator going into a Kalk reactor so I'm getting backflow from the reactor to my FW resevoir.

How bad are check valves at failing? Replace annually or something? Right now, I don't have any other good ways to do this.

 

[wastememphis]

Could you just put the tube above the water line so it wouldn't be possible for it to have a backflow?

 

[carb850]

I don't understand?

Without a check valve, wouldn't I need to set my FW reservoir higher than my Kalk reactor to keep it from backflowing?

 

[phil519]

I have the Osmolator going into a Kalk reactor so I'm getting backflow from the reactor to my FW resevoir.

How bad are check valves at failing? Replace annually or something? Right now, I don't have any other good ways to do this.

So you have a RODI reservoir, with tunze pump - hooked to a Kalk reactor. The tunze pump pushes water into the kalk reactor and then forces the saturated kalk into the tank? I assume this last section the line is above the water/sump line yes?

If so then I have the exact same config. I use two check valves in line on the section that goes from the RODI to the reactor.

The worst case that would happen is that both fail and I have a bucket of kalk water in my RO reservoir.

I unhook the check valves occasionally (as my RODI is on a container with a dolley) to ensure there is no failure.

 

[carb850]

So you have a RODI reservoir, with tunze pump - hooked to a Kalk reactor. The tunze pump pushes water into the kalk reactor and then forces the saturated kalk into the tank? I assume this last section the line is above the water/sump line yes?

If so then I have the exact same config. I use two check valves in line on the section that goes from the RODI to the reactor.

The worst case that would happen is that both fail and I have a bucket of kalk water in my RO reservoir.

I unhook the check valves occasionally (as my RODI is on a container with a dolley) to ensure there is no failure.

This is the same setup I'm using. Are you using Tunze checkvalves or other?

 

[shawnz28]

Ok that is different, to do what you want a check or two would be needed. I would go with the new ones Roger has as are supposed to be some of the best around

 

[carb850]

How can I find those? PM him?

 

[shawnz28]

Yes or they may be listed on tunze.com, I have not looked

 

[Runfrumu]

I had the same set-up, try mcmaster-carr. I cant remember the exact valve I ordered since it's been so long, but I think you need 1/4 and a real low cracking pressure.

 

[carb850]

I looked on Tunze but didn't see anything. Does anyone know the part/model number?

 

[Aquadepot]

I believe same part number new Non return valve 5074.010

 

[carb850]

Thanks!

 

[carb850]

Bump to an old thread.

I ended up ordering two of the Tunze check valves mentioned above, it was sometime early spring when I finally got everything up and running. After a few months, I had another back siphon event. Assuming the first one just failed, I installed the other one I ordered in place of it. Again, everything was running perfect for several months. Now, I'm getting water to back in my reservoir so I disconnected my ATO until I can figure out my next step.

Did I get a bad batch? Should they only last 3-6 months total? Do they need periodic cleaning? Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks.

 

[carb850]

bump

 

[rvitko]

The usual cause would be how the check valve is installed, it must be above the reactor. If you look at the illustrations in the manual the input line is zip tied up to the output line and the check valve goes above the reactor. If this isn't done powder will clog the valve open in the short time it takes for it to close. Typically you can restore these old valves by using a test kit syringe to suck a mix of vinegar and water through the valve repeatedly and flush it out.

 

[carb850]

Mine were in a really small package and I don't recall seeing instructions but I could have overlooked them. According to your description I did install mine incorrectly. The valve is installed below the top of the reactor so I guess I now know the problem. Hopefully I will be able to get it flushed out and back in service... after relocation.

Thanks.

 

[rvitko]

There is no instruction with the spare valve, I was referring to the instructions that came with the 5074.