Chiller needed?
- Thread starter natas
- Start date
Flipper62
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12682736#post12682736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by filippo
there are back-up batteries that can last more than 2 hours.
here's an example chart of a model made by APC:
http://www.apc.com/products/runtime_for_extendedruntime.cfm?upsfamily=22
the more appliances you plug in, the more watts will be plugged in, and the more energy the back-up batter will "burn" to keep all those watts on. the less watts required, the longer the battery will last.
this is what i would plug in if i were you: return pump (approx 80W), and powerheads (8W each). that would be 100W total. there is one model i saw from APC that cost $150 that last up to 3 hours. so with the example just mentioned i am sure it can last 2 hours and half.
I would not plug reactors, lights, skimmer pump, etc. I might, however, depending where you live and how hot it is, plug the chiller in. Last, mind you, you don't need to plug every single applicance in, since it's just a "back-up" - a momentary solution.
if you want to run the whole thing, then buy yourself a generator (sorry, I can't remember how its proper name). it will cost you from $250 to $500, which will run on gas (you can actually run almost your entire house on those things). but i wouldn't invest in one unless i leave in an area where the power goes out often.
i am phx, az. i can't wait to go back home (milan) this xmas hopefully
Since I own my own business & I have mobile work shops all over the place......I have 6 to 8 generators. I can always 1 as a backup.
The problem is....What to do when I,m not home.
I have a Honda 6500 watt generator in my garage. That realy will run the entire house.........& my wife has used it before...BUT if no one is there to start it........
Flipper62
Premium Member
??? what site........send the link to me
My Computer / surge backup worked. I have the USB cable connected to my computer. Whenever something happens..It will pop up & tell me, just whet wrong.
It said.....power surge at 11:58......Battery backup kicked in at 11:58.....12:45 total power off.......thats 45 min of back & thats what its rated for.
SO....Is there a 12 hour backup...????
COST.....????....DOESN'T MATTER
http://www.apc.com/tools/ups_selector/
This one.
Go to 'Configure By Load'. Type in how many watts you need to run. Enter your desired Run Time and click 'Show Solution'.. It'll give you the best UPS match they have based on the price, number of minutes they run, etc.
Good stuff.
greenbean36191
Premium Member
It's not nearly as simple as what you read in the newspaper. I actually work on thermal stress in reef animals, so I could write a lot about this if I had the time, but unfortunately I don't. The short, oversimplified version of the story is that temps ~2-4 degrees F or more above normal maximum temps can cause bleaching if they occur long enough and other contributing factors like flow and lighting are right. Contrary to what most hobbyists believe, you aren't safer or creating more margin for error by keeping your tank on the cooler end of the normal range. The corals will still start to show stress responses at ~2-4 degrees above the normal max, whether that normal max is 80 or 86.
For the worldwide averages for coral reefs, this is one of the most cited sources, but it's far from the only one:
Kleypas, J. A., J. W. McManus, and L. A. B. Menez. 1999. Environmental Limits to Coral Reef Development: Where Do We Draw The Line? American Zoologist. 39:146- 159.
FishDad2
Member
Thanks...I'll read it at lunch today.
For anyone else interested, here's a .pdf version of the document referenced above by greenbean.
Environmental Limits to Coral Reef Development...
For anyone else interested, here's a .pdf version of the document referenced above by greenbean.
Environmental Limits to Coral Reef Development...
FishDad2
Member
Who am I kidding? I don't want to work today, I want to ready about fish stuff!
Greenbean, I just want to be sure I understand the temperature component of the reference article. First, in regards to examining reefs from a temperature perspective, it seems that the authors have classified reefs into 3 categories...low temp reefs, high temp reefs and those in between, i.e. average temp reefs. That being said, I want to be certain I understand the table on page 149.
1. In the case of the variables column, is it correct to interpret "average" to mean "average temp reefs", "minimum" to mean "low temp reefs" and "maximum" to mean "high temp reefs"?
2. What does the "SD" column represent in this table?
I'm sure I'll have more questions later, but as this thread is focused on temperature, I'll hold off for the moment.
Thanks
Greenbean, I just want to be sure I understand the temperature component of the reference article. First, in regards to examining reefs from a temperature perspective, it seems that the authors have classified reefs into 3 categories...low temp reefs, high temp reefs and those in between, i.e. average temp reefs. That being said, I want to be certain I understand the table on page 149.
1. In the case of the variables column, is it correct to interpret "average" to mean "average temp reefs", "minimum" to mean "low temp reefs" and "maximum" to mean "high temp reefs"?
2. What does the "SD" column represent in this table?
I'm sure I'll have more questions later, but as this thread is focused on temperature, I'll hold off for the moment.
Thanks
greenbean36191
Premium Member
The columns on 149 have nothing to do with the low/high/normal classification of the reefs. They're just the data from the analysis. Keep in mind these temps are for normal, non-bleaching years on places with active reef formation. There have been much higher and lower temperatures recorded on reefs during extreme events and an even wider range for non-reef coral communities.
The first horizontal row is the range of yearly average temperatures. From left to right you have the lowest average temp seen on an actively growing reef, then the highest yearly average for a single reef, and then the worldwide average. SD is the standard deviation, which is basically the average distance from the average.
The second row is the minimum temperatures recorded on the reefs. First is the very lowest temp seen on any reef worldwide during the year. The next is the highest yearly low temperature. Then is the average low temperature seen for reefs worldwide.
The last row is the summer high temps. First is the lowest high temp seen on any reef. Then next is the highest high seen on any reef. Finally is the average yearly high temp worldwide.
So basically the breakdown is this-
Winter low temps range from 61-83 with the average low temp being 77.
Summer high temps range from 76-94 with an average summer high of 86.
The yearly average ranges from 68-85 with a worldwide yearly average of 82.
The first horizontal row is the range of yearly average temperatures. From left to right you have the lowest average temp seen on an actively growing reef, then the highest yearly average for a single reef, and then the worldwide average. SD is the standard deviation, which is basically the average distance from the average.
The second row is the minimum temperatures recorded on the reefs. First is the very lowest temp seen on any reef worldwide during the year. The next is the highest yearly low temperature. Then is the average low temperature seen for reefs worldwide.
The last row is the summer high temps. First is the lowest high temp seen on any reef. Then next is the highest high seen on any reef. Finally is the average yearly high temp worldwide.
So basically the breakdown is this-
Winter low temps range from 61-83 with the average low temp being 77.
Summer high temps range from 76-94 with an average summer high of 86.
The yearly average ranges from 68-85 with a worldwide yearly average of 82.
filippo
Member
Here's an update about lowering temp using FANS.
Setup:
90 Gallon Tank + 40 Gallon Sump
6.x54W T5 lighting
* Initial temp this morning was 82
* Added two SMALL fans in canopy, not facing the water, but pushing the hot air out
* Added a medium fan blowing on the surface water of my sump, set at a minimum level
* It took 6 hours for the temp to go down to ~78
* It looks like the temp will never go down below 78 since it's been at that temp for a while
Best thing of all is that my 2 300W heaters won't be needed to control the temp after all.
If I want my temp to go down let's say hopefully to 76F I could increase the fan in the sump to the Max level. Otherwise I am fine.
I can just add timers that would turn the fans on when my lights are on and turn them off when they lights go off.
Ahhhh, i might save some $ without buying a chiller... it feels good
Setup:
90 Gallon Tank + 40 Gallon Sump
6.x54W T5 lighting
* Initial temp this morning was 82
* Added two SMALL fans in canopy, not facing the water, but pushing the hot air out
* Added a medium fan blowing on the surface water of my sump, set at a minimum level
* It took 6 hours for the temp to go down to ~78
* It looks like the temp will never go down below 78 since it's been at that temp for a while
Best thing of all is that my 2 300W heaters won't be needed to control the temp after all.
If I want my temp to go down let's say hopefully to 76F I could increase the fan in the sump to the Max level. Otherwise I am fine.
I can just add timers that would turn the fans on when my lights are on and turn them off when they lights go off.
Ahhhh, i might save some $ without buying a chiller... it feels good
