chinese led lights
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TropTrea
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Eshine does offer a CREE set up.
http://www.eshinesystems.com/aqua/cree-led-aquarium-light.html
The advertising though is a little questinable as they claim they are using
XP-G R-5 White LED's at 8,300K to 10,000K while Cree rates the R-5's at 5,000 to 8,300K.
This is probably one of the better fixtures out there if they are driving the LED's at 3 watts. However my personal preference would be for less White LED's using the XP-G R-2 or R-3 to better bring out the reflective reds in the tank. As well as spliting the Blue spectrum between Royal Blues and True Blues.
However on a comercial fixtures they are intrested in the broad spectrum of individuals that might be buyng there fixture. Some would probably want a whiter fixture others a bluer fixture and this is probably a good compromise.
TropTrea
New member
Now meter accuracy actualy is not great even at 10%. The 10% accuracy is at full scale. So if you have a meter that is set to read three digits to a max of 999 watts then the only gurantss on even a 5% accurate meter is that it it is within 49 watts of the true value. This is why many meters have scales lke 200 max where the accuracy then on the 200 scale is 10 at 5% or 20 at 10%.
Depenent upon which scales on the meter you were using and what the accuracy is guranteed at this could easily be your issue here. That is why I generaly cringe at meter reading that were taken with $20.00 meters.
I had been called in for TS calls because someone got a reading off 92 volts when they thought they should have had 117 volts only to find they were checking it on a 1,000 volt scale where the 25 volts they were off was actualy within 2.5% accuracy of the meter. Using a 200 volt scale on my meter I got a reading of 119 volts.
jeffesaurusrex
New member
Yep, looks like it's just a rebranded version of the eshine. I'll probably get this - for about $50 more apiece than the aquariumleds.com lights, you get lenses, cree leds, 30 more watts of power, and the ability to link the fixtures so there is only one power cable. Coincidentally the last part is also a con, because ideally there would be only two cords - one for actinic on both fixtures and one for whites, that way you can have an automatic dusk/dawn with timers.
Yea the one cord really sucks.
TropTrea
New member
With the single cord I would have to make sure I had a controler that worked the lighting set. If not your realy adding in the eventual cost of the controler. For some that might be an issue as with large systems that are automated it is simply adding the lights to the controler. But different controlers work with different types of outputs and even with a controler you may be adding an output module for those lights upping there price.
Keep in mind that Exhine is bringing out there Cree Pro which is a 120 Watt lighting system. Which might be worth the wait. The system you looking aty might be a prototype of it before they worked the bugs out of it and want to put there brand name label of approval on.
SimonSKL
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Not sure if you saw my post referencing to a Kill-A-Watt meter which does not allow a user to select scale. According to the specification this particular model has an accuracy rating of +/- 0.2%.
http://www.amazon.com/P3-International-P4400-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
TropTrea
New member
Looking at that 0.2% accuracy at 1875 VA is 3.75 VA or Watt accuracy. If it read 94 Watts you should have between 90.25 and 97.75 actual wattage used.
If voltage max is 125 at 0.2% accuracy and a reading of 120 you have between 119.5 and 120.5 Volts.
Simularly for current you read 1.21 Amps with a scale max of 15 Amps so the .0.2% accuracy means between 1.18 and 1.24 Amps.
If we put the Amps and volts at there minimum 119.5 X 1.18 = 141 Watts yet. My strong suspicion is that one of the scales if not more than one way out of calibration.
do you know the cree pro is coming out?
TropTrea
New member
The Eshine website claims it is coming soon.
There is a good possibility that some of the limited no name fixtures that look similar to the standard Eshine are pre production runs that they are probably gathering data on to see how the customers react to it. This is very common in pre production. After they get input they make minor changes in a system and sometimes do a second preproduction run or go right to production. Most companies do not do there production runs until they are sure that customers will be happy with there device. Sometimes ideas are even killed completely in this phase.
An example is the last product I worked on. It was scheduled to have one pre production run on the basic model, then the basic model would be released to production the two upgraded models would go to pre production at the same time. After the pre production run it was decided to make about a half dozen changes and another preproduction run. This was followed by the third preproduction run in which the two upgrade models were also included. In all there were 4 preproduction runs on the basic model the 1st upgraded version was released 6 months later, and after two additional attempts the third upgraded model was scraped. The reason for scraping the third upgraded model was that production costs would cause the price to exceed what marketing estimated customers would be willing to pay for the extra bells and whistles.
I should also note that about the time we decided to do a second preproduction run just on the basic model a Chinese look alike hit the market. We tested the Chinese look alike and found it inferior in the two three area to even our first prototype build. Our lawyers were also looking into patent infringement issues with this Chinese product. However do its poor performance I do not believe they pushed the issue very far.
TropTrea
New member
Building your own is in my mind always the best option.
Financialy you can do a better fixture for less as long as buy quality LED's .
Adoptability wise it is better as you can always modify it to meet changing needs.
Quality wise you can aways stay ahead of the comercial fixtures as do not have to wait for them to market the newest inovations.
The biggest cons is the time it requires for DIY projects. Dependent on your skills and the size of the build a LED fixture will take 4 to 16 hours of your time.
I'm goin DIY
I'm goin DIY
Ok. I've decided to do the DIY to make sure I don't get screwed... Gonna be able to stay in budget... I hope...
I've got a degree in electronics so I'm looking forward to sitting down and getting to work...
I'm going to do a full build walk tru so stay tuned.
-R
I'm goin DIY
Ok. I've decided to do the DIY to make sure I don't get screwed... Gonna be able to stay in budget... I hope...
I've got a degree in electronics so I'm looking forward to sitting down and getting to work...
I'm going to do a full build walk tru so stay tuned.
-R
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aqua-Pro-150W-50x3W-CREE-LED-Aquarium-Reef-Tank-Light-White-Blue-Aluminum-USA-/251030027213?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D251027562486%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7443694664091550099#ht_3395wt_1163
Would this be equivalent to a 250 watt Halide? Do you guys think Three of the 3g units or the Ebay version using CREE would be enough over a 220 Gallon tank?
The single cord is a little bit annoying, but I like that you can link these together. I would probably supplement the dusk to dawn with led strips.
TropTrea
New member
I read the Specs
"10000-20000K white perform high PAR value "
The problem is they claim they are using CREE LED's and the highest Color Temp Cree makes a white is 5,000K to 8,300K so something here does not sound right.
They also claim the Blues are 450 to 475 nm and this can only be if they are using a 50/50 split between Royal Blues and Blues. This I actualy like.
However the 50/50 ratio between Blues and Whites to me would be way to white. I like more of a 3 or 4 blue to 1 white ratio myself.
grizzlyguy
New member
Because it is lie...
This lamp cant be Cree "inside"... Led chips looks another than should be - or they use old XR-E ... When I asked them for closeup photo - they stopped responding to my emails...
I think, that they are trying to use "magic key" word - CREE - and everybody will buy it without any thoughs...
It looks like lamp witch cheap china leds - like Nichia/Epistar - and weak tech parameters...
"cheap meat eat dogs"...
Hard to say if it's a lie, but it does look fishy...
It's the same text and light as the eshine 3g and they can add cree to those lights. The Laboratory images could be any lab and ledlights .org doesn't seem to be working.
Having said that it looks like a pretty good light and a lot cheaper than the price I got from eshine on the 4g without the controller.
It's the same text and light as the eshine 3g and they can add cree to those lights. The Laboratory images could be any lab and ledlights .org doesn't seem to be working.
Having said that it looks like a pretty good light and a lot cheaper than the price I got from eshine on the 4g without the controller.
TropTrea
New member
Well there is thing called truth in advertising. Perhaps the Blue LEDs in the fixture are Cree LEDs since the price of the Blue Cree LED's are now available below
$4.00 per LED with Star Mounts. Without the Sat mounts they can probably get them wholesale for a lot less in quantities then use there own mounting system. But what I worry about are the whites.
Cree Whte LED's XP-E's were just rerated since yesterday.
the Cool whites were rated at 5,000K to 8,300K but they just raised the ratings to 5,000K to 10,000K . Interestingly they added a R-3 Bin to the Cool Whites. Which could be pushing the 10,000K level.
However I personaly prefer the Neutral Whites which are rated at 4,000K to 5,300K because I believe they give a much better balance of Green to Red. Only to be surpassed by the 90 CRI White which seem inpossible to get your hands on with star mounts. Thiose that sell the CRI-90 whites only sell then by the reel of 5,000 units without star mounts.
Keep in mind that the star mounts are realy there for honniest and DIY projects. If I were producing a comercial LED fixture in any mass Quantity I would not be using STAR mounts., But building a combination heat sink printed circuit board to mount them.
$4.00 per LED with Star Mounts. Without the Sat mounts they can probably get them wholesale for a lot less in quantities then use there own mounting system. But what I worry about are the whites.
Cree Whte LED's XP-E's were just rerated since yesterday.
the Cool whites were rated at 5,000K to 8,300K but they just raised the ratings to 5,000K to 10,000K . Interestingly they added a R-3 Bin to the Cool Whites. Which could be pushing the 10,000K level.
However I personaly prefer the Neutral Whites which are rated at 4,000K to 5,300K because I believe they give a much better balance of Green to Red. Only to be surpassed by the 90 CRI White which seem inpossible to get your hands on with star mounts. Thiose that sell the CRI-90 whites only sell then by the reel of 5,000 units without star mounts.
Keep in mind that the star mounts are realy there for honniest and DIY projects. If I were producing a comercial LED fixture in any mass Quantity I would not be using STAR mounts., But building a combination heat sink printed circuit board to mount them.
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