Travis1787
Active member
I have same tank and bought the unit in the link I posted. Up above.
chinese led lights
- Thread starter stevercleeze
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Hi guys, I started a post in 2011 titled"Why are people afraid of chinese made leds other than Maxspect". I have a 150 gallon that has been sitting around untouched for over two years and I am just now getting ready to upgrade. I have started researching chinese leds again and a lot has changes in the past two years. I originally was looking a BSled. Now it seems Eshine is the way to go. I have also sound a company called Anovay. They produce leds branded as Pharos. I would like to know if anyone has the Pharos lights. They have a new system that uses 3 and 5 watt cree leds. Its wireless and uses one controller to control all of the units wirelessly. They are only 90 watts each light and I am being recommended 3 units for my 48"x24"x24" tank using 60 degree optics. I was told they have more depth and spread because of the new design and therefore don't need as many watts to achieve the same effect. Please let me know if any of you have experience with with these leds. They look and sound great!
bhazard451
New member
I might have found drivers through alibaba that will fit inside the units, are 60-75w each, have 580-700mah output current, and are 0-10v dimmable (pwm dimmable versions too). Getting pricing now.
After finding drivers, next step would be to add some quick connects to the new drivers so that everything can stay easily swappable, and extend the DIM+ DIM- wires through the fixture to the controller.
It's a bit of DIY work that always has the possibility of going horribly wrong if wired incorrectly, but as long as we can find cheap drivers similar in output to the ones included in the fixture, in theory this should work in getting apex dimming working.
After finding drivers, next step would be to add some quick connects to the new drivers so that everything can stay easily swappable, and extend the DIM+ DIM- wires through the fixture to the controller.
It's a bit of DIY work that always has the possibility of going horribly wrong if wired incorrectly, but as long as we can find cheap drivers similar in output to the ones included in the fixture, in theory this should work in getting apex dimming working.
bhazard451
New member
How much per unit? They look a bit nicer than the Eshine design, but with Crees and a controller you might be looking at $350-400 a fixture. I don't see any models from them in the cheaper $160-220 range.
WinnipegDragon
Canuckian
Please keep us in the loop! Sam hasn't had any updates for me yet
Also note that in the Novas the driver also powers the integrated fans, so there may need to be something done to power them if you swap the drivers.
I bought 6 of the Pharos modules for the 450 I am putting up. Currently I am running 2 on my 165 gal. They do have a really good spread and the wireless controller handles multiple modules. I love the features they offer and they are simple to program (if you want something different than the default setting). It includes cloud simulation, sunrise/sunset, lunar cycle, set your night time hours how you want it, dimmable. I love them and have had no problems with them.
bhazard451
New member
Please keep us in the loop! Sam hasn't had any updates for me yet
Also note that in the Novas the driver also powers the integrated fans, so there may need to be something done to power them if you swap the drivers.
The only updates I had were they were looking into making a Cree version of the fixtures, and that they are still researching an Apex solution.
I'm hoping that by just replacing the driver, it doesn't affect the fans. That assumes them being wired into the led output line itself with a resistor implemented of some sort. The key in this is figuring out why the fans stay running when the pot switch is turned off.
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bhazard451
New member
Looks like they could just be wired seperately to a $5 12v power adapter, assuming that extra port they come out of on the driver isn't hooked to the lights.
Ugh, so much figuring out to do. Sucks not having a schematic.
Mussin
New member
Does anyone have any info on these lights?
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/538686843/48_inches_led_light_aquarium_for.html
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/538686843/48_inches_led_light_aquarium_for.html
I think if you have to get more than one unit then I think DIY is cheaper and better. Have much more control and in most cases better LED's. But thats just my opinion.
Mussin
New member
So what one did you order?
bhazard451
New member
DIY offers a lot more customization options, can be made into one big unit, and can be cheaper or higher quality, depending on what you use.
If you don't have the time or ability to DIY, or want something plug and play, you cannot beat the value of the $165 unit. 55 bridgelux leds alone would cost $110, nevermind the rest of the parts needed.
A lot more legit resellers on ebay are selling the dimmable lights now with a $20 or more premium.
I personally love the Nova units, because they can be upgraded in the future a bit easier, should I decide to swap out leds or drivers if they become cheaper/better in a few years. The fans and drivers are on quick connects, and the leds might even be too... we haven't checked yet.
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bhazard451
New member
If I ever convert my freshwater 120 gallon, I would do a DIY design like yours. It looks great.
bhazard451
New member
@WinnipegDragon
I just brainstormed something. You tested from the Pot..
There are 4 wires going into the red connector which connects to the leds from the driver. They would be LED+ DIM+ (Red) and LED- DIM- (Black). Did your friend ever test the return voltage from there? Remember, we want to bypass the pot completely. The pot output on the driver might be screwing things up. It is non-standard compared to a meanwell driver.
If it actually takes the 0-10v signal, we would divert those two wires (DIM+, DIM-) from the red connector to the apex port via the apex dimming cable. Thoughts?
This would solve the fan issue, save $$ on drivers, and would make my day.
I just brainstormed something. You tested from the Pot..
There are 4 wires going into the red connector which connects to the leds from the driver. They would be LED+ DIM+ (Red) and LED- DIM- (Black). Did your friend ever test the return voltage from there? Remember, we want to bypass the pot completely. The pot output on the driver might be screwing things up. It is non-standard compared to a meanwell driver.
If it actually takes the 0-10v signal, we would divert those two wires (DIM+, DIM-) from the red connector to the apex port via the apex dimming cable. Thoughts?
This would solve the fan issue, save $$ on drivers, and would make my day.
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