Chlorine Taste

[Seehag]

I replaced the filters on my Ro/DI this last weekend in preparation to fill the tank this weekend. I read the instructions and it said to remove filters and inline Ro unit. replace holder and fill each with a teaspoon of bleach, refill system and allow to sit for 15 min. I did this, after 15 minutes I removed thr filter holders rinse, install new filters and flush for 15 min. There wasn't much flow for that 15 min as you know what ro look's like with no storage left ( did I mention I have a 5 gal storage attached) I filled and emptied the storage tank using just Ro water, the di is turned off, 5 or 6 times over the next couple of day's. We have drank all our water from the system now for a week but we still get a slight chlorine taste. The system has a carbon filter for taste in it.

My question is should I use this water for the tank this weekend or put it off. I will of course be using the Di part turned on for the tank. Also my ppm is 6.

Art

 

[AZDesertRat]

Did you use plain unscented regular strength bleach ? Did You run fresh water through all the assembled empty housings for 5 minutes or so before dumping and installing the new filters ? Did you install a new post RO taste and odor carbon filter ?

 

[Seehag]

Yes to everything except the run fro 5 minutes before rinsing. I allowed to stand then removed housing's, rinsed housing's in sink thourghly and reinstalled new filters. Then ran water through new filters for 15 min, emptying storage tank again. I just looked at the instructions and they don't mention running it before rinsing or better put how you describe it. The Ro filter was not replace but was removed for this sanitizing procedure, and yes there is a carbon filter inline as the last stage before coming out of the faucet.

Art

 

[AZDesertRat]

Always run it to waste with the housings installed so you purge all the lines and areas you cannot rinse. Is the post carbon a new one?

 

[Seehag]

yes it is new. I ran it for 15 min atleast after installing the new filters do you think I just filled them with chlorine taste? it definatley does not say to do it that way in instructions.


Art

 

[Seehag]

Sanitization Procedure:
Important Note: Reverse Osmosis water purification systems remove most contaminates in drinking water, however there is no guarantee on the quality of the final product. In addition to that, it is important that you are aware that bacteria can grow within your RO system, and thus we recommend using this sanitization procedure at least one a year to prevent and eliminate any bacteria growth. If your system has a UV filter this will eliminate bacteria in your final product water, however, the UV filter is one of the last stages, so the majority of the water in your system may still contain bacteria. The bacteria still has the opportunity to grow in your system and damage your membrane, so it is still recommended that you use this procedure.

1. Close feed water valve
2. Remove all pre-filters and the membrane, leave post filter on
3. Use 5 ¼% bleach
4. Add one capful (2 tsp or 10ml) of bleach to each filter housing and the membrane housing
5. Slowly open feed water valve and allow water to fill housings
6. Allow solution to enter lines. Close feed water valve when water begins to come out of product line
7. Let solution stand in system for 15 minutes
8. Remove filter and membrane housings, empty, and rinse
9. Install new filters, ensuring to replace post filter
10. Tighten housings and turn feed water valve back on
11. Allow system to run for 15 â€"œ 20 minutes to rinse lines
12. Your system is now sanitized and ready to use

 

[AZDesertRat]

That is a lot of bleach! I recommend 2 to 3 tablespoons in the first housing only then flush it through the system with no more than 5 minutes contact time. It has been proven through the Centers for Disease Control that 0.5 ppm or mg/L for 5 minutes will kill just about anything. 5% bleach is 50,000 parts per million so 2 spoonfulls in each housing diluted in 3 or 4 housings is still a huge amount of chlorine.

 

[Seehag]

I hear you Az, but what do you think about filling the tank? I would think that this should go away it is getting better, I sent an email to the supplier asking them. If I filled the tank with this water should I treat it for chloramine??

Art

 

[bertoni]

I'd definitely treat the water before using it. The only issue is that some of the products make skimmers go crazy. You might want to keep flushing until the water is cleaner. That's likely what I'd do, actually.

 

[AZDesertRat]

The post carbon filter is probably only on the RO and not the RO/DI so it is of no use to you for DI water. You might throw a bag of carbon in you water container to adsorb any residual chlorine. I am actually more concerned about the membrane if you are still getting a chlorine taste after passing through it. It does not take much chlorine to melt a membrane. Do you have a chlorien test kit for a swimming pool or better yet a low range kit for RO systems. Spectrapure sells one but you can get a cheap one at WalMart or a pool supply that will do the same thing.

 

[Seehag]

I have a pool test kit, I can check it with that. I followed those directions perfectly. I will wait to hear what they say when I hear back from them. I did not replace the membrane didn't come in the filter set. Maybe I should get another?

Art

 

[AZDesertRat]

Have you tested the membrane efficiency? If its less than maybe 95% rejection I would consider replacing it. I like to keep mine in the 98% rejection range but my tap water TDS is about 800 so a % or two makes a huge difference. A good rule of thumb is for every 2% you increase the RO membrane efficiency you double the life of the DI resin. For me that is a significant number. I recommend the Spectrapure SpectraSelect hand tested and guaranteed 98+ % efficient membranes, mine is averaging 98.25% rejection rate which really makes DI last!

 

[Seehag]

Tested the water from the filter after draining the tank it has a reading of 0 ppm chlorine or no color in the solution. The taste is very very slight to not noticeable from this stream. ( this is the trickle that comes out from the membrane). Mybe the taste is coming out of the tank? The ppm is 5 now so I would say the membrane is working. How do you test the membrane? I have no gauges nor can I see how munch is being rejected. I would say if my tap water is in the 130 -150 range it is cutting out lot's.


Art

 

[AZDesertRat]

Test the waste ratio using a measuring cup and clock or watch. Time a cup full from the good or product water line then time a cup full from the waste line. The waste should be about 4 times faster than the good if its working correctly. Colder water will increase the waste output somewhat so it may be closer to 5 or 6:1 if you water is colder. Disconnect the waste line from the sink drain if need be or install a temporary line as this is an important measurement.
As far as the rejection rate, use the TDS meter and a squeaky clean drinking water glass to test the tap water first. Triple rinse the glass and meter in DI water then test the RO only TDS without DI. Again triple rinse with DI then test the RO/DI TDS and do a final rinse. Always put the glass and meter away clean for the next usage.
The RO only should be 96 to 98% less than the tap water tap water TDS, so if your incoming is 130 to 150 as you say the RO only should be no more than 3 or 4 maximum without DI. RO/DI should easily be 0 TDS no problem. Now that's if you are using a Dow Filmtec 75 GPD RO membrane, if its a 100GPD it could possibly be only 90% efficient so readings could be much higher due to the low efficiency.
The rubber bladder may have taken on a chlorine taste but if you have the post carbon filter after the bladder tank and before the drinking water faucet as it should be then it should adsorb any taste and odor from the tank?