Clam in 29 gal?
- Thread starter kayl
- Start date
Herbert T. Kornfeld
In Memoriam
That oceanlight is a very decent setup, so is the PFO/icecap setup I listed (I know, I use them myself). They are quality setups, any less in price, and you are going to start loosing in some key areas...the only exception being if you want to make the hood yourself and use a retrofit that could cut your fixture cost down considerably to say $40. But $250-$300 aint bad for a 250wattDE setup anyways...not at all.
As far as the mogul vs. DE bulbs...neither is really better, except for the fact that DE bulbs have considerably higher intensity outputs than their SE cousins at the same wattage. So from the standpoint of actual light levels, you would want more SE watts to equal DE amounts. So to light say, a 24" deep tank for a clam at the bottom...a DE would be good, but many SE might not cut it.
As far as the mogul vs. DE bulbs...neither is really better, except for the fact that DE bulbs have considerably higher intensity outputs than their SE cousins at the same wattage. So from the standpoint of actual light levels, you would want more SE watts to equal DE amounts. So to light say, a 24" deep tank for a clam at the bottom...a DE would be good, but many SE might not cut it.
kayl.. I would highly recommend getting the "AquaMedic 20K 250 DE Ocean Light Pendant". The AB bulbs that come with the fixture produce a great deal of PAR and intensity. There is an article on AdvanceAquarist.com from Sanjay stating that DE AB 10K bulbs produce more PAR than most of the leading brand name DE 10K bulbs. Also I have heard great things about the AB 20K bulbs.
I would go with the fixture with the 20K bulbs, so you won't have to get actinic suppliments..
I would go with the fixture with the 20K bulbs, so you won't have to get actinic suppliments..
what about a coralvue 250w electronic ballast ($92 at PA) coralvue 20k bulb (60something I've seen for less though) and some type of horizontal HQI pendant (90-105). Total of less than $260 (plus misc cords) and you get an electronic ballast. Better or worse than listed above?
caseymou.. well with the "AquaMedic 20K 250 DE Ocean Light Pendant" you already get a choice between 2 great bulbs that run about $90 each. And worth it. I run 2 x 250w 10K AB DE and they are impressive when it comes to color and coral growth, but I didn't pay $90 for them 
.
Second the casing for the unit is very clean looking and built very well.
Third.. I have heard mixed results from coralvue bulbs and ballasts owners. But AB has been making quailty bulbs and lighting fixtures for years!!!
. Second the casing for the unit is very clean looking and built very well.
Third.. I have heard mixed results from coralvue bulbs and ballasts owners. But AB has been making quailty bulbs and lighting fixtures for years!!!
TheUltimateNoob
Active member
IMPO i think the 10K AB bulb is a little too yellow if you don't have supplemental lighting and/or actinics. so if this pendant is going to be your only light, go with something a little more white/blue like a 13 or 14K. just my thoughts.
You can save $ with buying the separate components compared to getting the Aqua medic ocean light 250DE and you end up with a electronic HID ballast. For looks you can't go wrong with the Aqua medic. Also the Aqua medic has an extruded aluminum pendant with hammertone reflector which has better refective properties. Too bad the Aqua medic doesn't come with an E ballast!
Herbert T. Kornfeld
In Memoriam
The Aqualine Buschke 10,000K bulb is marketed as a 10,000K, but really a 13,000K (even says it on the box). It is a very white bulb with a tinge of blue...much like the similar geisemann 13,000Ks. This bulb has a very high output and looks good...but it still isnt enough to run without actinics IMO. Only 20,000Ks are good enough for that...or if you dont mind a little less blue, a 15,000K.
IME, its best to just make your mind up on a 10,000K setup with actinics, or lone halides at 20,000K. Why? cuz every thing in between is just that. Few 12,000-15,000Ks can rival the output and PAR of 10,000Ks...in fact...some fare worse off than 20,000Ks in this regard. And, they arent really blue enough to be run without actinics...close, but not quite. That is why most run one or the other, but not alot in between. I think that the AB 10,000Ks are an awesome bulb for running with some actinic. AB also makes a great 20,000K as well. Both have very high outputs for their wattage.
IME, its best to just make your mind up on a 10,000K setup with actinics, or lone halides at 20,000K. Why? cuz every thing in between is just that. Few 12,000-15,000Ks can rival the output and PAR of 10,000Ks...in fact...some fare worse off than 20,000Ks in this regard. And, they arent really blue enough to be run without actinics...close, but not quite. That is why most run one or the other, but not alot in between. I think that the AB 10,000Ks are an awesome bulb for running with some actinic. AB also makes a great 20,000K as well. Both have very high outputs for their wattage.
TheUltimateNoob
Active member
well my magnetic ballast is completely silent, is pretty small, and doesn't use that much more power than the e ballast. seems like pretty much the same to me.
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