**Clear** Mesh Top

Thanks for the input guys.

Last summer, I lost several fish to jumping. Now I have four expensive wrasses and don't want to see any carpet surfing. After trying glass and eggcrate, I came up with this.

My halide is probably not very well focused since its in diy reflector in a conversion of a CSL hood (see first pictures for the hood I am using). But I also don't notice tons of light on the walls and ceiling, so I guess I'm not loosing too much light due to reflection off the water surface.

But no mater which way (up/down) I put the eggcrate on my set tank, I had less light on the edges...which is a slight issue I have anyway with a single halide (30-inch long tank). I didn't want to make the situation any worse with the eggcrate and also don't really want to go to two halides either due to heat and additional costs.

For kicks, here's a current picture of my tank (excuse the blurry fish):

full_tank_march_sm.jpg
 
Very good idea! I would be interested in getting some of the material from you if still have some available. What is it sold for? Very nice looking tank!
 
have you been able to find plastic framing materials?

looks great.....where did you buy that screen material?
 
No, I am using aluminum window frame material. It seems to be working great. No sign of corrosion.

Still have more mesh available in the selling forum.
 
Yeah, its similar but this stuff is clear. More light passes through it. I looked into a lot of different options before coming up with this one.
 
I have a question? I have always used glass tops on my tanks,but with a screen wouldnt u cause more water to evaporate?
 
thanks mcegelsk.....I like what the guy did with the mesh...I am a bit leery about metal near the tank....I use the eggcrate over my eel tank so he doesn't go surfing. but the windo idea does look good too. For ease sake--I guess if I were to buy or do that--I wpuld want it in pieces to better access my tank.

nataz--yes there is more evaporation -- but it allows heat to escape so the water does not get too hot.

how many of you guys/gals cover your reef at all?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7142468#post7142468 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Yes one side of the eggcrate is "thick" and the other "thin". If you look at metal diffusers the same is true. Very little information is available about these things... some people asy that the "wedge" shaped grid runners are top help it pop out of the injection mold. However, a study of high tech light panels will show that it is a design parameter.

From my understanding FAT side towards the light causes the light reflected off the water to be bounced back off of the grid, while still allowing light to penetrate from above, as well as guiding the shallow angled light. THIN towards the light causes a more of the light to be lost and less to be reflected back to the water from underneath. If anybody has any hard studies or data on this it would be great. We may want to move it to another thread in fairness to the OP.

Bean

I tried eggcrate at one point. I lost a TON of light. A TON. Like easily 30-40%. I tried both sides, and it was similar. One may be better than the other, but both are bad.

The above is a much better idea.
 
You could build a frame of plastic pipe or angle, and rip a groove in it with the tablesaw so you could still mount the mesh with the window screen beading.
 
Wow looks great. But what if you have stuff on the back of the tank like a remora hob skimmer or hob refugium or even overflow box. Is it necessary to have it framed, i guess so inorder for it to stay in place?
 
Wow looks great. But what if you have stuff on the back of the tank like a remora hob skimmer or hob refugium or even overflow box. Is it necessary to have it framed, i guess so inorder for it to stay in place?

I have given this some thought. If I had stuff on the back, I would take a piece of acrylic or plexiglass as wide as necessary to make it around the items in the back. Then along the back edge, I would cut very accurate cut-out notches for the items that have to go through the top.

Then, I would make the frame just as I have above. The narrow piece along the back shouldn't protrude out far enough to make the frame interfer with lighting or cause shadows.

I also like the idea of making an entire top out of a single piece of acrylic and routering a grove to allow the spline material to fit and hold the mesh. Then you would leave the area along the back wider so you could make the same cut-out notches from above. But this would require quite a bit more skill and tools to make look nice.
 
It would also most likely end up warping as acrylic tends to do. You would have to end up clamping/bolting the acrylic flange down to something anyways...in which case its a PITA. I think a frame out of aluminum channel would be better... you know, regular aluminum window-screen frame? It already has the spline channel in it, just put the corners on (they sell it as a kit at HD), and then attach a strip of that all-glass style versa-hood plastic channel that is used for the exact thing we are talking about here...cut it out to fit the pipes/cords, and put it on top. Total cost would be less than $20 I bet.
 
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