Closed Loop Circulation
- Thread starter TriMax
- Start date
imsqueak
Premium Member
If you don't already, you should be checking the large tank forum to see how others have done it and even ask some of them if they had to do it again, what they would do differently.
What size pump do you plan on running?
If you are ready to spend a lot of money the Oceans Motions 4 way would give you a nice random flow and they do sell a plug and play system. I'm pretty sure that since you are ordering a new tank the budget is a bit tapped, but thought I'd mention it since I've been contemplating it myself.
What size pump do you plan on running?
If you are ready to spend a lot of money the Oceans Motions 4 way would give you a nice random flow and they do sell a plug and play system. I'm pretty sure that since you are ordering a new tank the budget is a bit tapped, but thought I'd mention it since I've been contemplating it myself.
Runner
Active member
I'd argue for the top in the back, but that is just my fear of emptying 300G of water into my house should the bulkhead start leaking. I prefer holes in the bottom only if they are protected by an overflow to make sure only the top 1" (at most) can get free on a leak.
But, then again, I am an engineer from a nuclear background and I over-design everything.
But, then again, I am an engineer from a nuclear background and I over-design everything.
Thanks folks
I put the thread on the Large Tanks forum. Got a few suggestions also.
I will have an overflow on the back of the tank. It will be as long as the tank is-96", from top to bottom- 12", and from the wall to tank- 6". Will put the drain to the sump and return from the sump, and the closed loop inlet and outlet in the box. Will drill syphon breaking holes in the inlet and outlet piping just below the water line to minimize tank drainage. Hope it works, Ha,Ha!
Will pick it up Saturday.
Fred, those rocks that we bought from Waynesworld where about as heavy coming out of the 375g as they were going in.
Hope the guy can fix the 375g. We will see. If he can, I think I will get him to do the same "back overflow thing" for it.
Thanks again
Eddie
I put the thread on the Large Tanks forum. Got a few suggestions also.
I will have an overflow on the back of the tank. It will be as long as the tank is-96", from top to bottom- 12", and from the wall to tank- 6". Will put the drain to the sump and return from the sump, and the closed loop inlet and outlet in the box. Will drill syphon breaking holes in the inlet and outlet piping just below the water line to minimize tank drainage. Hope it works, Ha,Ha!
Will pick it up Saturday.
Fred, those rocks that we bought from Waynesworld where about as heavy coming out of the 375g as they were going in.
Hope the guy can fix the 375g. We will see. If he can, I think I will get him to do the same "back overflow thing" for it.
Thanks again
Eddie
imsqueak
Premium Member
I'm no good at trying to do the quote thing so here's my method:
I will have an overflow on the back of the tank. It will be as long as the tank is-96", from top to bottom- 12", and from the wall to tank- 6".
That seems like a great way to have a nice sized overflow that can handle a bunch of flow. Using the overflow calc, you will/can get about 4500gph of available water for your sump and closed loop. I dont think that's enough to handle both your CL and sump return though.
Will put the drain to the sump and return from the sump, and the closed loop inlet and outlet in the box. Will drill syphon breaking holes in the inlet and outlet piping just below the water line to minimize tank drainage. Hope it works, Ha,Ha
I deleted my long confusing point here. My point being is that having all the return plumbing in your overflow box, in addition to your standpipes, will create a mess to clean and maintain and will not be user friendly to try to loosen unions and such.
I will have an overflow on the back of the tank. It will be as long as the tank is-96", from top to bottom- 12", and from the wall to tank- 6".
That seems like a great way to have a nice sized overflow that can handle a bunch of flow. Using the overflow calc, you will/can get about 4500gph of available water for your sump and closed loop. I dont think that's enough to handle both your CL and sump return though.
Will put the drain to the sump and return from the sump, and the closed loop inlet and outlet in the box. Will drill syphon breaking holes in the inlet and outlet piping just below the water line to minimize tank drainage. Hope it works, Ha,Ha
I deleted my long confusing point here. My point being is that having all the return plumbing in your overflow box, in addition to your standpipes, will create a mess to clean and maintain and will not be user friendly to try to loosen unions and such.
Stupid, Stupid, Dumb, Dumb, Stupid, Stupid. I was planning to drill holes in the pipes while they are in the overflow box. This would work for the outlets from the tank, but never would have worked for the inlets to the tank. Water would be spraying everywhere and would need to flow back into the tank or down the overflow outlet to the sump. Stupid, Stupid, Dumb, Dumb, Stupid, Stupid.
I will go back to two overflows and run the plumbing up, over, and down into the tank from the back. I might need to get some more black pipe.
Oh well. Might not drill any holes until I get it home and get some advice from those more experienced than I.
Eddie
I will go back to two overflows and run the plumbing up, over, and down into the tank from the back. I might need to get some more black pipe.
Oh well. Might not drill any holes until I get it home and get some advice from those more experienced than I.
Eddie
imsqueak
Premium Member
Eddie, I WISH I didnt have to go up and over on all my plumbing. You have the chance not to and IMO you should quit worrying about BH failure. Get the big bad honkers from savco if the standard ones scare you.:eek2:
My suggestion is stay with the top overflow but cut it down to about 4 slits each 1' long and 2" wide (or 8 slits 6" long). Between each slit, you should have 2-3" (or 1-2") to help with the tank integrity. Now you have only used about 4.5'-5' of the back of the tank so you can put your sump output in the upper corners where you can put in a siphon break. Have the box only go down 1' so you can plumb your CL feed and output under the box and at the ends where the box isnt covering the back of the tank.
What about plumbing for a chiller? Do you have one yet?
Youre welcome to call me if you want to discuss this idea or if you just want to brainstorm.
My suggestion is stay with the top overflow but cut it down to about 4 slits each 1' long and 2" wide (or 8 slits 6" long). Between each slit, you should have 2-3" (or 1-2") to help with the tank integrity. Now you have only used about 4.5'-5' of the back of the tank so you can put your sump output in the upper corners where you can put in a siphon break. Have the box only go down 1' so you can plumb your CL feed and output under the box and at the ends where the box isnt covering the back of the tank.
What about plumbing for a chiller? Do you have one yet?
Youre welcome to call me if you want to discuss this idea or if you just want to brainstorm.
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