Clown with ICH? QT'd all my fish.

jx4hansen

New member
Hopefully someone can let me know if this is ICH or not on my Clown. My other clown seems to be healthier since I have had them (almost two months) and only has a couple of spots.

The spots were really bad on the day that I took the photos (two days ago) they are all now in qt and bringing the salinity down .001 every hour. The spots almost totally went away the next day if that helps. The larger clown that had the spots has always been a little paler black and is the one that stays in the anemone most of the time.

Unfortunately this happen right when I had just purchased a Powder brown tang and a leopard wrasse and was going to put them in qt. So now I have two clown fish, melanarus wrasse, leopard wrasse and powder brown tang in qt. They are in a 20 gal but now getting ready to move them to a 40 gal that I have.

The leopard wrasse is not eating yet and wondering if I need to treat for worms before,during, after hypo-salinity treatment. Going to try some different food today. Have tried pellets and mysis.

My PBT is scratching and acting like it has something on it. Do not see spots.

Any ideas are appreciated, as this is the first time I have done hypo treatment. I have not used any chemicals just garlic so far.
 

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I'm not an expert with pics, but this looks like a full blown case of ich to me. I assume the fish doesn't have any excess slime or sloughing of the skin, which would indicate brooklynella.Scratching is also a give-away for ich and you won't always see white spots, but the parasite is still around. (The whit spot is not the actual ich parasite, its buried under the skin). All fish exposed to ich have to be treated for the full hypo period, while the main tank stays fishless for at least 6 weeks. Prazi-Pro is always a good idea; but I don't know about using it with Hypo. I Prazi-pro all new fish but use an alternative to hypo. Someone will let you know. BTW; how big is your main tank and how long has it been set up? Were the clowns the only fish in that tank?
 
I had two clowns, RBTA, 2shrimp, melanerus wrasse, and a kole tang in my 75 gallon/29 sump. The kole tang and fire shrimp didnt make it about the same as the clown showed signs of ich. The RBTA also split shortly after. I now have two RBTA and a cleaner shrimp in my DT.

I am putting the 40 gal together today to qt.
 
I had two clowns, RBTA, 2shrimp, melanerus wrasse, and a kole tang in my 75 gallon/29 sump. The kole tang and fire shrimp didnt make it about the same as the clown showed signs of ich. The RBTA also split shortly after. I now have two RBTA and a cleaner shrimp in my DT.

I am putting the 40 gal together today to qt.
The shrimp wouldn't be bothered by ich. Get all the new fish cured, let your DT go fishless for 6+ weeks, then QT everything, and you'll never have to through this again. BTW, watch ammonia closely in QT, you have quite a fish load and its too late to cycle the QT properly.
 
The shrimp wouldn't be bothered by ich. Get all the new fish cured, let your DT go fishless for 6+ weeks, then QT everything, and you'll never have to through this again. BTW, watch ammonia closely in QT, you have quite a fish load and its too late to cycle the QT properly.

+1 to everything he said
 
So far so good. I am still slowly lowering my salinity. It is at 1.013. I have been able to keep my Ph at 8.1. I have been raising the PH of the RO water I am putting in.

I have seen the leopard wrasse actively pecking for food so that is good.

They are all now in a 40 gal qt and seem to be doing good. The powder brown tang is bothering the leopard wrasse some, so it seems to be keeping to itself.
 
New question. My melanurus wrasse has a lesion on it's side and is not moving around. Also has what looks like finrot on it's left fin.

I did a 10 gal water change and dosed erythromycin.

I am hoping doing this with sg at 1.008 is not going to kill the fish.
 
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