Clownfish is lethargic and not eating

[pikastu]

My female clown has been swimming poorly and breathing very rapidly. She has been eating on and off but hasn't touched anything the past two days.
I have put her in jail for now so the water flow doesn't stress her and my QT tank js currently drained.
I've very thoroughly checked her over and there are no physical signs of illness.
Does anyone know what could be the problem and what I can do?

All other fish are healthy and eating well.

 

[griss]

Our fish disease experts @leebca @Dr. Reef @HumbleFish will likely need a videos of the fish under white lighting, showing both sides of the fish about a minute long. You can upload the video to Youtube and post a link here.

 

[pikastu]

Our fish disease experts @leebca @Dr. Reef @HumbleFish will likely need a videos of the fish under white lighting, showing both sides of the fish about a minute long. You can upload the video to Youtube and post a link here.

Thank you I hope someone has an idea! My 100L QT tank isn't running at the moment, but I can set up a small tank quickly if needed for medication.

 

[leebca]

My female clown has been swimming poorly and breathing very rapidly. She has been eating on and off but hasn't touched anything the past two days.
I have put her in jail for now so the water flow doesn't stress her and my QT tank js currently drained.
I've very thoroughly checked her over and there are no physical signs of illness.
Does anyone know what could be the problem and what I can do?

All other fish are healthy and eating well.

It is difficult to diagnose a fish as you described.

Regarding breathing. . .General “normal” gill ‘rate’ is less than 120 beats per minute (depending on fish size, water temp, etc). Over 140 is likely a gill problem of some sort.

Is the fish tank bred or wild caught? Where did it come from? How long have you had this fish? Is the mucous coating of the fish 'normal.' That is, do you see any excess mucous coating?

 

[pikastu]

It is difficult to diagnose a fish as you described.

Regarding breathing. . .General “normal” gill ‘rate’ is less than 120 beats per minute (depending on fish size, water temp, etc). Over 140 is likely a gill problem of some sort.

Is the fish tank bred or wild caught? Where did it come from? How long have you had this fish? Is the mucous coating of the fish 'normal.' That is, do you see any excess mucous coating?

I posted a video, but looking back I see the quality is reduced. Without having anyway to time it, the breathing is significantly higher than normal. There are no external indicators apart from behaviour. I spent far too much time observing the tank so I do notice every minor fin split or side scratch. This is my first marine tank in about 10 years so I'm definitely a newbie again, but I've had fish in some sort consistently since I was a teenager.

The fish was captive bred, just under a year with me. About two months ago I upgraded and moved everything over, including media etc and very closely monitored water but got no spikes.

Is there anything I can do as a precaution? Freshwater dip etc? Apart from one fish that died 4 days into QT, I haven't had any marine illnesses before.

 

[leebca]

Thank you I hope someone has an idea! My 100L QT tank isn't running at the moment, but I can set up a small tank quickly if needed for medication.

Just saw the video. The fish is definitely exceeding the normal breathing rate and in stress. It should be in a QT with extra aeration. QTs can be 'jump started' using bottled live bacteria sold at many aquarium stores and online.

Other questions posed in my previous post are needing answering. If this is a recently acquired wild caught or tank-bred fish I'd suspect either Brooklynella hostilis (Brook) or possibly gill flukes/worms. Both of these can spread to other fishes in the aquarium and another reason to get the fish into QT as soon as possible.

Without a microscopic confirmation to determine the problem this is about all I could say.

Treatment may be too late however each condition is treated differently:
Brook: Treat with Metronidazole. It is often mixed with Focus or Agar to ingest at 0.50% by weight in food. But there is no time for this single approach. Also, getting the right amount into the fish is hard to do -- too much could be harmful -- too little is ineffective. Best is a bath or a QT treatment. Concentrated bath treatment: 25ppm concentration for 24 hours. Internal eating treatment for 3 weeks. QT treatment: Dosage is 25 mg/gal every 48 hours (or every 24 hours for severe problems) with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10-14 days.
Gill Flukes: A general 'test' for flukes is to give the fish a FW dip. Even if it is gill flukes a FW dip may provide a temporary relief. After the Freshwater Dip Procedure, check the dip water carefully. If you see sesame seed shaped things, then the fish had flukes. If you don’t see anything with the unaided eye, there still may flukes/worms in the dip water. Gill Flukes are not visible to the unaided eye. Do you have a microscope or access to one? If so, check the dip water (surface, mid-area, and bottom) under a microscope. You may see blobs/spots or shapes like seen in this post. This also confirms the fish has flukes/worms. If you don’t have a microscope or access to one, no problem. Just assume the fish has gill flukes. The dip is a temporary relief for the fish. If worms are found or suspected, then treatment with Praziquantel is needed, as found in the Praziquantel Treatment Post.

 

[leebca]

I posted a video, but looking back I see the quality is reduced. Without having anyway to time it, the breathing is significantly higher than normal. There are no external indicators apart from behaviour. I spent far too much time observing the tank so I do notice every minor fin split or side scratch. This is my first marine tank in about 10 years so I'm definitely a newbie again, but I've had fish in some sort consistently since I was a teenager.

The fish was captive bred, just under a year with me. About two months ago I upgraded and moved everything over, including media etc and very closely monitored water but got no spikes.

Is there anything I can do as a precaution? Freshwater dip etc? Apart from one fish that died 4 days into QT, I haven't had any marine illnesses before.

Thanks for the additional information.

I'm unsure about the upgrade you did. Moved over from what to what?

What foods have you been feeding this and your other fish? Download then read, the Fish Nutrition document. What other living marine life do you have in the aquarium? What and when was the last living thing added to your aquarium? Was it quarantined? How was it quarantined?

 

[leebca]

If you do have access to a microscope, then this is what Brook like under the scope:

 

[pikastu]

Just saw the video. The fish is definitely exceeding the normal breathing rate and in stress. It should be in a QT with extra aeration. QTs can be 'jump started' using bottled live bacteria sold at many aquarium stores and online.

Other questions posed in my previous post are needing answering. If this is a recently acquired wild caught or tank-bred fish I'd suspect either Brooklynella hostilis (Brook) or possibly gill flukes/worms. Both of these can spread to other fishes in the aquarium and another reason to get the fish into QT as soon as possible.

Without a microscopic confirmation to determine the problem this is about all I could say.

Treatment may be too late however each condition is treated differently:
Brook: Treat with Metronidazole. It is often mixed with Focus or Agar to ingest at 0.50% by weight in food. But there is no time for this single approach. Also, getting the right amount into the fish is hard to do -- too much could be harmful -- too little is ineffective. Best is a bath or a QT treatment. Concentrated bath treatment: 25ppm concentration for 24 hours. Internal eating treatment for 3 weeks. QT treatment: Dosage is 25 mg/gal every 48 hours (or every 24 hours for severe problems) with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10-14 days.
Gill Flukes: A general 'test' for flukes is to give the fish a FW dip. Even if it is gill flukes a FW dip may provide a temporary relief. After the Freshwater Dip Procedure, check the dip water carefully. If you see sesame seed shaped things, then the fish had flukes. If you don’t see anything with the unaided eye, there still may flukes/worms in the dip water. Gill Flukes are not visible to the unaided eye. Do you have a microscope or access to one? If so, check the dip water (surface, mid-area, and bottom) under a microscope. You may see blobs/spots or shapes like seen in this post. This also confirms the fish has flukes/worms. If you don’t have a microscope or access to one, no problem. Just assume the fish has gill flukes. The dip is a temporary relief for the fish. If worms are found or suspected, then treatment with Praziquantel is needed, as found in the Praziquantel Treatment Post.

I really appreciate your time!

My QT tank isn't running at the moment because it's a waste of power and I'm not looking at new fish for a while, but I keep sponge filters in the sump so I can quickly set up a small tank.

Are these medications I'll get from the LFS or do I need prescriptions?

She isn't new, does that mean flukes are more likely?

Thanks for the additional information.

I'm unsure about the upgrade you did. Moved over from what to what?

What foods have you been feeding this and your other fish? Download then read, the Fish Nutrition document. What other living marine life do you have in the aquarium? What and when was the last living thing added to your aquarium? Was it quarantined? How was it quarantined?

Upgrade was from 200L to 500L. All original live rock and bio media moved to the sump and then dry rock for the new scape.

Last fish to the aquarium were two days ago (clownfish showing symptoms 4 days ago). I went away on the day I noticed the symptoms, and told a friend to take a video to the LFS. He decided to surprise me when I got back with three Anthias which he put straight in the tank.

Prior to that, a marine beta went into the tank about a month ago, after 3 weeks in QT.

All fish have been at least 3 weeks QT before going in the display.

I don't treat the QT tank, which I know isn't the safest but I observe closely.

I have also put corals in since which all get an iodine dip.

Inhabitants are:
2 ocellaris
3 yellow striped cardinals
1 sixline
1 midas blenny
1 Heraldi angel
1 bristletooth
1 mandarin
3 lyretail anthias

several urchins
Nardoa starfish
Peppermint shrimp
2 Strombus
Astrea
Trochus

I feed mysis or spirulina brine shrimp with pellets twice a day. I was feeding a gel food for every second day but I don't like how it clouds the water for a few hours.

 

[leebca]

I really appreciate your time!

My QT tank isn't running at the moment because it's a waste of power and I'm not looking at new fish for a while, but I keep sponge filters in the sump so I can quickly set up a small tank.

Are these medications I'll get from the LFS or do I need prescriptions?

She isn't new, does that mean flukes are more likely?

Upgrade was from 200L to 500L. All original live rock and bio media moved to the sump and then dry rock for the new scape.

Last fish to the aquarium were two days ago (clownfish showing symptoms 4 days ago). I went away on the day I noticed the symptoms, and told a friend to take a video to the LFS. He decided to surprise me when I got back with three Anthias which he put straight in the tank.

Prior to that, a marine beta went into the tank about a month ago, after 3 weeks in QT.

All fish have been at least 3 weeks QT before going in the display.

I don't treat the QT tank, which I know isn't the safest but I observe closely.

I have also put corals in since which all get an iodine dip.

Inhabitants are:
2 ocellaris
3 yellow striped cardinals
1 sixline
1 midas blenny
1 Heraldi angel
1 bristletooth
1 mandarin
3 lyretail anthias

several urchins
Nardoa starfish
Peppermint shrimp
2 Strombus
Astrea
Trochus

I feed mysis or spirulina brine shrimp with pellets twice a day. I was feeding a gel food for every second day but I don't like how it clouds the water for a few hours.

Based on this information, I'd say some parasite was introduced into your aquarium. The ill clown was the first to contract the problem. Since marine life was introduced recently without quarantine, time isn't the issue. I understand the Clown showed symptoms before the Anthias were introduced. But, I think the problem came in before that. It could be either one of those parasites, or a handful of other types. I would perform the FW dip immediately for some relief, then medicate in a QT.

QT observation for 3 weeks isn't long enough, IMHO. With so many ill fish coming through the system, including even those that are tank-bred, prophylactical treatments are very important. In the least, new fish need to be de-wormed. Invertebrates from the ocean or fish stores where they are kept in the same system as fish may carry with them fish diseases.

Under the circumstances, the sponge filter from the sump can be used, but do not return the sponge filter from the QT to the sump or aquarium after its use in the QT.

I'm not sure where you are located. If you are in the USA, those medications are available without a prescription. The foods you are feeding need 'an upgrade.' Please review that feeding link I posted.

Speaking in generalities, Anthias can be a challenge to keep. In addition, they are often prone to diseases. Anthias are best fed frequently throughout the day. Once acclimated, they have been known to do well with 3 feedings a day.