Cls

blcktitanium

New member
Hello all, I have read many threads on CLS but I still must ask for some help and advise. I'm having my tank built the demensions our as follows 48"X32X28 approx 185gallons. I have told the builders that I wanted 2 2 inch intake holes place on the bottom of the tank and on each end of the tank with 2 1.5 inch outputs. I'm planning on building two seperate 3" manifolds for each side of the tank so to place my LR on and have the output flow under the rocks and through the rockscape the rockscape when done would have a valley look to it. I'm planning on using two reeflo dart 3600s for my pumps and having at least 18 tees per mainfold.

Also my sump return pump will be a Mag 9.

Planning on this being a Mixed tank: LPS/SPS/Clams/Soft Corals and Anenomes (Spelling)

My question is:

1) would the 3" manifolds provide enough movement of water.
2) would the 2 dart pumps provide enough turn over along with the sump return pump.
3) What should I reduce the tee down too at minimum with out having any problems.
 
Re: Cls

There are no right or wrong ways of plumbing a tank, but some are certainly better than others. Your configuration is unorthodox, but it may suit your purpose.

For what it's worth I recommend the following...

Use the two Dart pumps on a 1.5" manifold (each) with 3/4" tees for the effluent ports. You can use 1/2" reducer bushings for added pressure and to regulate flow as needed. Use six effluent lines per pump for a total of 12 closed loop return ports.

Direct two of the CL returns across the top of the tank toward the overflow. Direct two lines (tee) from your return from sump (Mag 9) down from the overflow end at a 45 degree angle for circular motion. The Mag 9 line should be 1" including the tee, with 3/4" line lock with flare nozzles exiting the tee. This configuration will allow the drain to draw only the top layer of water.

Have some (4-5) of the return ports flow up through the rock to the surface, but not too many as flow is greatly diffused by rock work, and detritus can get trapped. Make sure you have at least two lines that reach the surface (from the bottom) so water can be oxygenated at the air/water interface.

A pair of lines located at the same end as the overflow, should be directed across the substrate to continue the circular motion and keep detritus from settling. Use the remaining 4-5 ports to direct water flow at your corals.

With this configuration, you will achieve surface skimming, circular motion, detritus suspension, movement of water from the substrate to the surface for gas exchange, coral slime removal, while constantly delivering food to the corals.

You may also want to consider going with just one Dart pump and use an Oceans Motions 4-Way wave maker to get better use of it.

I don't use submersible pumps, particularly Danner Mag Drives. I would use a Velocity T3 external pump in its' place.
 
Thanks for your help thats great. I came up with this Idea when I saw one of the most Awe expiring Home tanks at www.oregonreef.com this mans tank is so amazing. Plus he shows pictures of his CLS before the rock work is added.
 
This is how I run the plumbing for the closed loop and return from sump.

The internal plumbing is concealed with shotcrete. I use elbows and tees to help the pipes blend in, as there are no straight lines in nature. The Intake for the closed loops have two strainers to avoid clogging and the trapping of small fish and invertebrates. The six CL returns on the bottom are set-up in a spiral pattern, so the Oceans Motions 4-ways create a swirl of water for better laminar flow and detritus suspension.

IMG_6066.jpg


The top return ports are from the sump. The lower ones are for the closed loop. Each closed loop returns 2 lines at one end of the tank and two in the middle. This helps mix water from one end to the other, and assures full coverage if one pump fails.

IMG_6043.jpg


The top return gets a 45 degree elbow to assure the overflow isn't interfered with.

IMG_6058.jpg
 
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