Coil Denitrator

paranoid

the pressure drop of the length of the coil makes that impossible.

it doesnt have to be fancy the ventri valve that comes with most pumps will do it put something on the end to increase resistance also several powerheads will fit standard plumbing stuff so just go to your local hardware/plumbing store and stare at things for a moment when you see what you think will work check it for size and itll work.
 
Rurouni Kenshin,
The length of the hose is supposed to create an aerobic zone towards the end of it that feeds off of Nitrates NO3. When setup properly they're supposed to abolish water changes to that of trace element replacement. But like so many other things in this hobby, they can be tricky to size and tweak. (Not unlike my wife somedays :D)
Dman
 
The venturi is that opening that allows the powerhead to suck in air through tubing, right? So if I stick the tubing in that way and have the other end with the valve underwater, does that mean water will get pulled in, go through the tubing, and come out the powerhead? :confused:

Jeez, with all these questions I think I would even annoy myself... :lol:
 
yep anoxic

The venturi is that opening that allows the powerhead to suck in air through tubing, right? So if I stick the tubing in that way and have the other end with the valve underwater, does that mean water will get pulled in, go through the tubing, and come out the powerhead

well you got the part right, but the direction is backwards to get a better picture set one up, then plug your finger so that say 50% of the output out of the normal jet (where the air water mix would come from) now instead of it sucking in air, water is going to squirt all over the wall behind your tank so make sure you point it up :D it only sucks in air when the water is going fast, slow it down and it goes in reverse.
 
thats how a bypass valve works,

on your finger over the output example, block more and the pressure increases, block less and the pressure decreases it just so happens that if you remove enough pressure it goes in reverse(sucking thru the venturi instead of blasting water out it) a little, its not high enough of a vacume to run a coil from though. you would supliment that with a valve as you dont wanna sit there 24/7 with your finger in the tank, the valve is the plumbing, your finger is the example.

that note and the fact that none of the impeller pumps are really pressure pumps, which means you dont really have to decrease it that much.
 
LoL, I think I might need to see some diagrams so I know how all the valves and stuff would hook up. I don't really know what a bypass valve thing is. :lol:
 
maybee this will help

some important notes

dont submerge the return line you wanna be able to see the water coming out

that triangle on the return is the best i could think of for a needle valve, the ones that you use for airstones work great for a single or 2 coils, more than that and you should consider putting the valves before the coils

that box with a oval over it is supposed to represent a valve it didnt get labeled

the orientation of the pump does not matter

any kind of T with a reducer will work between the powerhead and that valve
 
Hey, all of this sounds really interesting. In the beginning you said you have read many things on it? Is there a special term I should look up or any books with this information? Thanks
DLCKWOOD:p
 
look in older '70's waste water treatement books, thats where I found tons of stuff. there are newer additions but the basics are covered well there, also there are a few sites covering them. try googling i have not had the need to in a while. i have about 200 pages of handwriten notes on the subject, they have not been cleaned up so there is probibly 50 pages worth of dup info :D there are tons of things like formulas for resistance of the coil, based on ID and the diameter of the coil, how much water will go thru the coil, how much will be processed by that coil....... info on oxygen and co2 most of which is way over my head :D tons of info on cycling the coil and sizing the coil to insane flow rates i vaguely recall as high as 10,000gph !!! things you can do to decrease the length of the coil (like tubes filled with bio balls) sizing the denitrification chamber itself.....
 
WAKE UP, WAKE UP

WAKE UP, WAKE UP

Ahh, to drag this thread back from the dead.
Any thoughts on THIS system?
If it works it would be even easier to maintain than a coil. And probably fairly easy to build.
Dman
 
ive seen that system before, its not all that different from a few aquamedic units in the end the coil is much less work

once your coil is cycled its almost no work left, you have to inspect regularly and the very ocasional cleanings thats it. once the coil is cycled you open the valve significantly and that alone keeps the clogs down. that system needs feeding, and other routine chores.
 
if it means much the aquamedic units are 1/3rd that price and only 1/2 the volume so there is some savings there.
 
RSMan,

I noticed you stated something about tubes with bioballs in them. Have you ever tried a setup like that as in theory it seems it would greatly reduce the length of tube required and I have a ton of bioballs just sitting around... :D
 
I did try it.

I thought it sounded awesome, but it didnt work out for ME. if I had stuck with it or planed on using them I probibly coulda made it work, as it turned out I ended up breaking 1 and constantly triping over the other. as it is my coils wrap around 4 big pegs on one end of my larger stands, then kinda snake around 14' away to the bio chamber.
 
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