COLOR CHANGING DI Resin
- Thread starter bobby65
- Start date
Elan L.
New member
yup
Pacific Reefs
New member
How do you do that? I would love to save some money in this department. I recently switched to the non color changing because I feel I get longer use out of it.
mrx66699
New member
I believe its been posted before anyway here ya go works like a charm.
The di resin I use is from Buckeye Field Supply also.
Some information available on the web would have you believe that you must have a full body has mat suit to use the two chemicals needed to do this. It is safe if common sense is used. Most homes have had these chemicals to some extent in the cupboards below the sink. Acids like muriatic or hydrochloride are used to remove scale from showers and toilets. Lye has been used to clear drains and cut grease for years. Your grandparent may have used lye soap also. Some chlorine gas comes out of the bottle and when it is mixed, so don't sniff the bottle. This is only mentioned because those without common sense should not do this project.
First gather up the products needed. The chemicals can be found at Lowes, the tools at Wal-Mart. The Lye is found at Lowes in the pluming section. It is used for clearing drains and made by a company called Roebic, and is 100% sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), also known as lye, as mentioned on the back of the bottle. The muriatic acid is found in the paint department. The mixing bottles must hold 16 oz. of fluid. The two containers used to separate the resins came from Wal-Mart and hold 64 oz. each..... Also used a fruit strainer, coffee filters, a stir stick, 5 oz. measuring cup (large shot glass), a 32 oz. tumbler, turkey baster and two 5 gallon buckets.
Numbered steps can be found at the bottom.
First put cold tap water in a five gallon bucket, and filled another bucket with ro water. Then put 9 oz. of ro water in a16 oz. bottle, then added 3 fluid oz. of Lye. This stuff gets hot, but not so fast that it going to melt the bottle before you get it into a bucket of cold water. Put a lid on the bottle and make sure it is tight. The bottle will not expand, it will collapse a little, you can open it if it collapses too much. Wile the bottle of lye is cooling shake it to keep the stuff from solidifying on the bottom. Mine did a little but this did not mater. If this does happen after it is used put more water in the bottle and set it aside the solid stuff will dissolve. When the bottle of lye cools fill it with more ro water until the total volume is 12 oz.
Next fill the 32 oz. tumbler with 6 oz. of ro water and then add 6 oz. of acid. Set aside. If you are doing this out side then put the wind to your side or back, if you are doing this inside then use a fan to put the wind to you side or back. Do not breathe the gas from the Acid.
Put the di resin in the clear Rubbermaid container, then add the Lye solution, do this slowly and stir gently. In a few seconds you will see the resin began to separate. Use the turkey baster to remove the top layer of resin and put it in the second Rubbermaid container. As the top layer is removed from the first container you will start to see a gap between the bottom of the second container and the resin, if your gap in the first container is to low then use the baster and take the solution from the bottom of the second container and put it back into the first container. I had to do this so I did not start to pick up the lower layer of resin. When most, I say most, because you will never get all of the resin from the top of the first container into the second container, but do your best, then set the second container to the side and let the lye do its job for an hour.
Put a coffee filter in the fruit strainer and pore part of the first canister into the filter. You will not get all of the resin into the filter so do this in two batches, you will need to use a new filter each time you empty one. Run 1 gallon through each batch of resin from the first canister, then put it into a zip lock bag. When the last batch is rinsed put it all back into the first container. Add the acid solution into the container stirring gently. If you are regenerating color changing resin you should see it turn from brown to a very dark blue or purple. Set this aside for about an hour.
By the way the floating resin is anion and the sinking resin is cation .
An anion (pronounced /ˈæn.aɪ.ən/ AN-eye-ən), from the Greek word ἀνω (anο), meaning "up", is an ion with more electrons than protons, giving it a net negative charge (since electrons are negatively charged and protons are positively charged). Conversely, a cation (pronounced /ˈkæt.aɪ.ən/ KAT-eye-ən), from the Greek word κατά (kata), meaning "down", is an ion with fewer electrons than protons, giving it a positive charge.
After both have sat for an hour then take the anion and drain it past a coffee filter, do this in two batches and run a gallon of ro water through each batch. When done draining from the water rinse then put in a zip lock bag.
Now take the cation and do the same as the anion. Empty the rinse water and acid into the same bucket as the anion's lye and rince water. The two will neutralize each other. You can empty the cation into the same bag as the anion. Mix each and fill the di canister or you can run them separate. I like to do this and it makes it easier to recharge the next time.
Run a gallon through the system until tds meter is reading 0 and should enough.
Numbered condensed steps if you prefer......
1. Fill a five gallon container with cool tap water.
2. Add 24 fluid oz of RO/DI water in a container. Then put 6 fluid oz of Lye in the container and cover.
3. Place the lye solution in the five gallon container with cool tap water. Let it cool a bit then shake it, when it heats up then put back in the water. Continue doing this until the lye does not get hot after it is shaken. Be aware that the bottle has some pressure on it at first, if needed loosen the top carefully to let the pressure off. Usually when the bottle is cool it is safe to loosen the top do not do this right after you have shaken the bottle.
4. Pour 12 fluid oz of RO/DI water in a container and then add 12 fluid oz of hydrochloric acid. Set this aside.
5. Put two 10 inch canisters of resin in the upside down bottle with the valve attached to the neck. Once the lye has cooled, pour it on top of the resin and stir.
6. Empty the 5 gallon container with the cool tap water. Prepare a colander with a square of window sheer. This will be your filter. Place the colander over the 5 gallon container.
7. After the resin has separated and you see about a 2 inch gap between them open the valve until the lower resin (cation) has drained. Then close the valve and set the (anion) aside.
8. If you drained the cation over the colander then rinse with 1 gallon of RO/DI water. If you drained in a container, put the cation in the colander and rinse.
9. Place the rinsed cation in a clean container and add the acid mixture to it and stir. If the resin has a color changing dye, the cation will change color when the acid is added.
10. Clean the colander and filter, and then place over the 5 gallon container. Empty the anion, in the upside down bottle assembly, onto the colander. Rinse with 1 gallon of RO/DI water.
11. Put the rinsed anion in a zip lock bag. It is done.
12. Clean the colander and filter again then place back on the 5 gallon container that has the drained lye solution in it. Empty the container, with the cation, onto the colander. Then rinse with 1 gallon of RO/DI water.
13. Put the cation in a separate zip lock bag for those who run separate cation and anon canisters. If you use mixed resin then mix the cation with the anion.
Let me know if you need pics.
The di resin I use is from Buckeye Field Supply also.
Some information available on the web would have you believe that you must have a full body has mat suit to use the two chemicals needed to do this. It is safe if common sense is used. Most homes have had these chemicals to some extent in the cupboards below the sink. Acids like muriatic or hydrochloride are used to remove scale from showers and toilets. Lye has been used to clear drains and cut grease for years. Your grandparent may have used lye soap also. Some chlorine gas comes out of the bottle and when it is mixed, so don't sniff the bottle. This is only mentioned because those without common sense should not do this project.
First gather up the products needed. The chemicals can be found at Lowes, the tools at Wal-Mart. The Lye is found at Lowes in the pluming section. It is used for clearing drains and made by a company called Roebic, and is 100% sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), also known as lye, as mentioned on the back of the bottle. The muriatic acid is found in the paint department. The mixing bottles must hold 16 oz. of fluid. The two containers used to separate the resins came from Wal-Mart and hold 64 oz. each..... Also used a fruit strainer, coffee filters, a stir stick, 5 oz. measuring cup (large shot glass), a 32 oz. tumbler, turkey baster and two 5 gallon buckets.
Numbered steps can be found at the bottom.
First put cold tap water in a five gallon bucket, and filled another bucket with ro water. Then put 9 oz. of ro water in a16 oz. bottle, then added 3 fluid oz. of Lye. This stuff gets hot, but not so fast that it going to melt the bottle before you get it into a bucket of cold water. Put a lid on the bottle and make sure it is tight. The bottle will not expand, it will collapse a little, you can open it if it collapses too much. Wile the bottle of lye is cooling shake it to keep the stuff from solidifying on the bottom. Mine did a little but this did not mater. If this does happen after it is used put more water in the bottle and set it aside the solid stuff will dissolve. When the bottle of lye cools fill it with more ro water until the total volume is 12 oz.
Next fill the 32 oz. tumbler with 6 oz. of ro water and then add 6 oz. of acid. Set aside. If you are doing this out side then put the wind to your side or back, if you are doing this inside then use a fan to put the wind to you side or back. Do not breathe the gas from the Acid.
Put the di resin in the clear Rubbermaid container, then add the Lye solution, do this slowly and stir gently. In a few seconds you will see the resin began to separate. Use the turkey baster to remove the top layer of resin and put it in the second Rubbermaid container. As the top layer is removed from the first container you will start to see a gap between the bottom of the second container and the resin, if your gap in the first container is to low then use the baster and take the solution from the bottom of the second container and put it back into the first container. I had to do this so I did not start to pick up the lower layer of resin. When most, I say most, because you will never get all of the resin from the top of the first container into the second container, but do your best, then set the second container to the side and let the lye do its job for an hour.
Put a coffee filter in the fruit strainer and pore part of the first canister into the filter. You will not get all of the resin into the filter so do this in two batches, you will need to use a new filter each time you empty one. Run 1 gallon through each batch of resin from the first canister, then put it into a zip lock bag. When the last batch is rinsed put it all back into the first container. Add the acid solution into the container stirring gently. If you are regenerating color changing resin you should see it turn from brown to a very dark blue or purple. Set this aside for about an hour.
By the way the floating resin is anion and the sinking resin is cation .
An anion (pronounced /ˈæn.aɪ.ən/ AN-eye-ən), from the Greek word ἀνω (anο), meaning "up", is an ion with more electrons than protons, giving it a net negative charge (since electrons are negatively charged and protons are positively charged). Conversely, a cation (pronounced /ˈkæt.aɪ.ən/ KAT-eye-ən), from the Greek word κατά (kata), meaning "down", is an ion with fewer electrons than protons, giving it a positive charge.
After both have sat for an hour then take the anion and drain it past a coffee filter, do this in two batches and run a gallon of ro water through each batch. When done draining from the water rinse then put in a zip lock bag.
Now take the cation and do the same as the anion. Empty the rinse water and acid into the same bucket as the anion's lye and rince water. The two will neutralize each other. You can empty the cation into the same bag as the anion. Mix each and fill the di canister or you can run them separate. I like to do this and it makes it easier to recharge the next time.
Run a gallon through the system until tds meter is reading 0 and should enough.
Numbered condensed steps if you prefer......
1. Fill a five gallon container with cool tap water.
2. Add 24 fluid oz of RO/DI water in a container. Then put 6 fluid oz of Lye in the container and cover.
3. Place the lye solution in the five gallon container with cool tap water. Let it cool a bit then shake it, when it heats up then put back in the water. Continue doing this until the lye does not get hot after it is shaken. Be aware that the bottle has some pressure on it at first, if needed loosen the top carefully to let the pressure off. Usually when the bottle is cool it is safe to loosen the top do not do this right after you have shaken the bottle.
4. Pour 12 fluid oz of RO/DI water in a container and then add 12 fluid oz of hydrochloric acid. Set this aside.
5. Put two 10 inch canisters of resin in the upside down bottle with the valve attached to the neck. Once the lye has cooled, pour it on top of the resin and stir.
6. Empty the 5 gallon container with the cool tap water. Prepare a colander with a square of window sheer. This will be your filter. Place the colander over the 5 gallon container.
7. After the resin has separated and you see about a 2 inch gap between them open the valve until the lower resin (cation) has drained. Then close the valve and set the (anion) aside.
8. If you drained the cation over the colander then rinse with 1 gallon of RO/DI water. If you drained in a container, put the cation in the colander and rinse.
9. Place the rinsed cation in a clean container and add the acid mixture to it and stir. If the resin has a color changing dye, the cation will change color when the acid is added.
10. Clean the colander and filter, and then place over the 5 gallon container. Empty the anion, in the upside down bottle assembly, onto the colander. Rinse with 1 gallon of RO/DI water.
11. Put the rinsed anion in a zip lock bag. It is done.
12. Clean the colander and filter again then place back on the 5 gallon container that has the drained lye solution in it. Empty the container, with the cation, onto the colander. Then rinse with 1 gallon of RO/DI water.
13. Put the cation in a separate zip lock bag for those who run separate cation and anon canisters. If you use mixed resin then mix the cation with the anion.
Let me know if you need pics.
Rogger Castells
New member
I think trying to recharge D/I resin is worthless, not to mentioned dangerous.
I will just get it from BRS or the two filter guys, or better of get it from air water and ice who supports our club and because they are local shipping is probably cheaper.
Good luck Bobby
I will just get it from BRS or the two filter guys, or better of get it from air water and ice who supports our club and because they are local shipping is probably cheaper.
Good luck Bobby
Rogger Castells
New member
That's worthless too!! :wavehand:
Rogger Castells
New member
I just simply don't have time to be googling, cutting and pasting huge statements.
My statements come from my personal experiences only and I try to share with everyone. Personally I think that having to buy, use and stored Lye and HydroChloric acid in my house is too dangerous, I have small kids and both of these chemicals could cause chemical burns and respiratory issues.
IMO the average person is better of just buying the resin and refilling the cartridges. MRX, Are you currently using this method to regenerate the resin?
My statements come from my personal experiences only and I try to share with everyone. Personally I think that having to buy, use and stored Lye and HydroChloric acid in my house is too dangerous, I have small kids and both of these chemicals could cause chemical burns and respiratory issues.
IMO the average person is better of just buying the resin and refilling the cartridges. MRX, Are you currently using this method to regenerate the resin?
Pacific Reefs
New member
I might try it after collecting some more resin. I do hate throwing the stuff away each time.
mrx66699
New member
Roger I do agree with you on the kids and chemicals stuff thats for sure. I do have a 9yr old and a 4yr old so dont get me wrong safety is a concern. Thats why I keep everything in the garage on the top shelf. Like pacific said I hate throwing the stuff away into a landfill when it clearly has many more uses to it. I myself would rather just take the money Im throwing away on new DI and put it toward upgrading equipment or new fish. Chuck showed me how to recharge it and its worked perfectly. YOU ALSO HAVE TO REMEMBER I REPROCESS MY WASTE WATER RERUNNING IT THROUGH A SEPARATE RODI UNIT SO I TEND TO GO THROUGH DI AND MEMBRANES. This offsets the cost and I have very little waste overall.
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