Comment on my manual WC idea

miroch

Member
My DT is on the second floor and the NSW and RODI storage is in the basement. Right now I have to lug 5g buckets up the stairs to the DT. Since my brute cans are in the basement and on the opposite end of the house, I cannot hard plumb lines between them(unless I cut my ceiling apart downstairs)
I think my only option is to have a large flex pvc hose with a ~1000gph pump and using remote outlet
( http://www.amazon.ca/Woods-59743-1-...&qid=1421205326&sr=1-3&keywords=outlet+remote )
and a flow meter on the end of the flex pipe to measure how much water I am taking out and adding back in
( http://www.amazon.ca/P3-Internation..._sbs_lg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0W198F403ASXBPE1NFSW )

Now I can have the pump in sump to drain old SW and use the remote to start/stop the pump since I will be quite a distance away at the nearest sink. The flow meter will keep track of how much water comes out so I don't go past my 20g of NSW.
 
I do something similar. My NSW is outside, about 50 feet from the DT.

I put a T in the return line with valves and a garden hose quick connect. Turning a couple of valves and my return pump sends the old water to a sink outside.

I reverse the hose - I use a long vinyl hose I have from a 'Python' water changer - and pump from NSW to sump.

The first time I did this I marked the high water line on sump and measured the outgoing water till I got to 12 gal. (10% of DT vol). Then I put a line on the sump. No need for flow meter.

I use an X10 remote to control the pump in the NSW.

I hate hauling buckets. I'd really hate hauling buckets up stairs! This is quick (20 min), cheap and I only have to move the hose.
 
I do basically the same thing as woodnaquanut, except I plumbed off my closed loop with the garden hose adapter and valve. Marked a spot that indicates "x" number of gallons so I know how much is removed. Then pump new water back from mixing station to fill. I use a marine grade (white) garden hose, although I'm not sure it makes much difference. Just keep an eye out on the metal connections to make sure they aren't rusting. You only have to measure the first time to understand how much to remove, then there is no need for flow meter. No more buckets!
 
How about Auto Water change? If you're going to be running lines anyway might as well. Dual head pump method only requires running two small 1/4" or 3/8" RO lines......It was the best thing I ever built for my setup as I also was tired of lugging buckets! Never again!
 
How about Auto Water change? If you're going to be running lines anyway might as well. Dual head pump method only requires running two small 1/4" or 3/8" RO lines......It was the best thing I ever built for my setup as I also was tired of lugging buckets! Never again!

In the next couple years im going to be upgrading my tank to a 120g 6' long tank and I will move it in the dining room which is directly above my water station downstairs. But until then, I don't want to cut my ceiling apart to run lines.
Do you have your set to change so much water per day?
 
In the next couple years im going to be upgrading my tank to a 120g 6' long tank and I will move it in the dining room which is directly above my water station downstairs. But until then, I don't want to cut my ceiling apart to run lines.
Do you have your set to change so much water per day?

yes, changes out about 1 gallon per day on my 55gallon. Only had to drill two 3/8" holes up under the base board (like you'd do to run a cable line or phone line). put the base board back and you'd never know there was a hole....
 
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