Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15
- Thread starter calvin415
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mnash
New member
Marco rock is a very good way to go in my opinion. I went this rout on my tank and made one small mistake. I think I should have cured it prior to putting it in the tank. I think it has slowly been leeching out phosphates and contributing to some bad hair algae. I might be completely wrong but the rock looks to be the most logical way for the phosphates to have gottin into my tank. About a year later (now) they are starting to dissapate and the algae is dying off. The nice thing is that when the hair algae dies on a rock it reveals all of the pretty coraline algae that is underneath.
calvin415
New member
Thanks! Hopefully it will start to become a tank soon...
Thanks!
Updates are coming... Flow will be done with a single Dart powering the CL. I will have multiple 1" drains feeding a 2" pipe to supply the Dart, which will then force water back through multiple ports. Each return will have a T to force the water to both display sides. Each side will have the water in the same direction hoping to create whirlpool effect along the bottom. Yes the return will force the water across the top to the overflow.
Thanks Jeff!
Thanks! Me too!
Thanks! Updates are coming...
Coming right up.
Thanks! I can't wait to start aquascaping!
I've heard those same horror stories before...
I figure all the LR I've had in the past has all kinds of coraline on it out of the box just to have it turn white and have to wait for it to grow back. Why not just save the headache?Well, here's today's update, I sucessfully sanded and polished all the 12' pieces (both sides) and have them all cut to length (rough cut as everything will be routered flush). The frame for the doors is built and ready for paint, I'm trying to locate some doors. I left a msg with a place today, still no call back.
I have my becketts for my skimmer but still need to finalize the size details before I order the acrylic.
The top for the tank has begun and man is it time consuming... Yes I could have taken James advice and built templates, but hey it's just not my style.
I hate to build templates if I have no intentions of mass production. (Sorry James)... Instead I draw out the cuts I need to make, then drill out the corners with a 4" Dia hole saw (the rounded corners are for extra strength) in the top. And finally (not pictured as I haven't started yet) I use the router and cut tangent to tangent... Top will require a total of 28 holes drilled and then 56 cuts (28 rough cuts and 28 final cuts) with a router. Man, when I write it all out it makes me think I should have built a template... 
Oh well...
Thanks for following along!
melev
Well-known member
That will work out fine, but a template clamped beneath the acrylic will make it super easy. If you make two of them, you can do the rough route and then the finishing route. Be sure to use a brand new bit for the finish route. With 6 openings, I'd make the template for sure.
However, when I had to make one irregular top for a club tank, I did exactly what you are doing, then routed out from hole to hole:
However, when I had to make one irregular top for a club tank, I did exactly what you are doing, then routed out from hole to hole:
melev
Well-known member
I would just get a single sheet of MDF and create two patterns. Do just like you were going to do with the router, pre-drilling those holes. Make sure your MDF is long enough that when you clamp the acrylic to it, the router won't hit the clamps. It would be nice to just route without interruption, right?
James says if you can blow air on the router bit as you route, you'll get a cleaner cut. I've never tried that as I'm not sure how I could do that. I tend to keep both hands on the router handles.
James says if you can blow air on the router bit as you route, you'll get a cleaner cut. I've never tried that as I'm not sure how I could do that. I tend to keep both hands on the router handles.
calvin415
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13050559#post13050559 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
James says if you can blow air on the router bit as you route, you'll get a cleaner cut. I've never tried that as I'm not sure how I could do that. I tend to keep both hands on the router handles.
Guess I'll get a straw and take lots of deep breaths.
I'll have to see if I can get a second body to run an air hose... I also keep both hands on the router. LOL!
DheereCrossing
New member
Marc - that's a cood design - who was that one for?
Oh, and depending on the router, I've had dust collection that works and some that doesn't. The best method I've found is having someone follow with the vaccuum hose. Since you're such an acrylic guy, why not make a subase for the router with a bracket on it to hold your vac hose at the right angle.
Oh, and depending on the router, I've had dust collection that works and some that doesn't. The best method I've found is having someone follow with the vaccuum hose. Since you're such an acrylic guy, why not make a subase for the router with a bracket on it to hold your vac hose at the right angle.
FiSHy sAy HeY
New member
Taggin along...cant wait to see the final product
calvin415
New member
I think it would tough to build a sub-base thin enough for the router bit to still stick down low enough to cut and thick enough to be an effective vac... If you have some pics, I'd love to see how it could work. I think a side mount for an air hose would be easier and more effective though...
melev
Well-known member
That tank belongs to DFWMAS, and a few other members built the stand. That way we'd have a tank for Next Wave each year.
I'm guessing pressurize air would work if it were affixed to the router and on in a steady stream while routing. I don't think James has ever posted pictures of this particular recommendation, and I've only read about it and never really tried to do it.
"Guess I'll get a straw and take lots of deep breaths"
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has inhaled acrylic flakes deep up into my sinuses...
I have not made an air nozzle jig yet either, but I'm positive it would help. I get chip buildup when rough cutting and sometimes the flakes will interfere with the bearing, leaving a trail along the bearing path.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has inhaled acrylic flakes deep up into my sinuses...
I have not made an air nozzle jig yet either, but I'm positive it would help. I get chip buildup when rough cutting and sometimes the flakes will interfere with the bearing, leaving a trail along the bearing path.
DheereCrossing
New member
What bit do you use? I would use a 3/8" spiral bit and if it doesn't make a full cut, flip the stock and make a second pass with a flush trim bit.
I haven't made the base but I'd say using 1/4" would be fine. I'd even add a handle while I'm at it.
What router do you use? If I have the same model I might be able to come up with something to send you.
leoslizards
New member
You could get a compressor, zip tie the hose to the router's power cord and duct tape the hose end to the front of the router pointing it down to the bit. Doesn't seem to hard. :|
calvin415
New member
You're right, Zip Ties and Duct Tape would work but would look like hell. I'd rather just get another set of hands to help.
What is hard is to engineer a piece of equipment that would not only look good but allow a safe setup and dis-assembly for a long term solution that will not damage your tools... I know I don't want to keep putting on and taking off duct tape on my router every time I needed to use an airhose. Plus there is too much risk IMO to have an air hose just taped to a router.
leoslizards
New member
LOL True. Then your best bet would be to make some sort of detachable plexi glass base as someone else already mentioned.
calvin415
New member
Alright Marc, took your advise, so here's a quick summary of both techniques...
The first is without a jig and would probably apply to most nano tanks, as they don't need any cross bracing (well most)... Please mind the pics, I'm still in the process of finishing the top but wanted to show you the steps.
First, mark out your area...
Next, drill out each corner with a 1-2" radius (2-4" diamater) hole saw, this step is important as the curve really strengthens the bracing. I've seen many tops crack in these corners when they are cut to a square or small radius.
Next is to router from tangent to tangent along the edge of your access hole. First is clamp a straight edge alone the line to give your router a guide, or you can move it in a little for a quick rough cut and allow for an easy and clean final pass.
Rough cut
Final pass
Do this for all 4 edges.
And you're done.
The first is without a jig and would probably apply to most nano tanks, as they don't need any cross bracing (well most)... Please mind the pics, I'm still in the process of finishing the top but wanted to show you the steps.
First, mark out your area...
Next, drill out each corner with a 1-2" radius (2-4" diamater) hole saw, this step is important as the curve really strengthens the bracing. I've seen many tops crack in these corners when they are cut to a square or small radius.
Next is to router from tangent to tangent along the edge of your access hole. First is clamp a straight edge alone the line to give your router a guide, or you can move it in a little for a quick rough cut and allow for an easy and clean final pass.
Rough cut
Final pass
Do this for all 4 edges.
And you're done.
calvin415
New member
Okay, so here's the steps with a jig. First you have to build the jig, and this is done by using the same method we just did but with MDF or another suitable material. Then position the jig where you want the access hole.
Drill a pilot hole...
Here is the router bit I use... It's a flush trim bit, but with the bearing mounted on the bottom instead.
I run an initial pass as a rough cut and then a final pass to remove the last of the material. This final pass reduces chipping and heat on the bit as there is less material to remove.
And done.
Be warned... I vaccumed between each shot, as you, your router, your acrylic, and work space will be covered in this!
Drill a pilot hole...
Here is the router bit I use... It's a flush trim bit, but with the bearing mounted on the bottom instead.
I run an initial pass as a rough cut and then a final pass to remove the last of the material. This final pass reduces chipping and heat on the bit as there is less material to remove.
And done.
Be warned... I vaccumed between each shot, as you, your router, your acrylic, and work space will be covered in this!
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