Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15

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i think if you look back it says that theres two overflows, one for sump and one for closed loop. I dont think the sump would be inside, its viewable from both sides.
 
Interesting....I can't wait to see these joined pieces. How's bout a quick word or 2 on the process when you post yeah
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650192#post12650192 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arctictwist
ahhh ok yea i didnt think about that. What did you use for the top of the stand? It looks really good.

Drywall. :D LOL! I just didn't texture it so it's a smooth surface.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650361#post12650361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coolrock
You're going to love this tank! I have an 8 footer, that is 14" wide and 16" tall. Softies and fish only.

I hope you're thinking about t-5 lighting. I have 3 rows of t-5's spanning the length of the tank. (That's 4 main bulbs on a Workhorse ballast and two actinics on and Advanced ballast. Of course, they're wired so that the actinics make one row across, and power on separately from the main lights.) Wish I could mine as a wall divider. It's going to look great!

I don't check RC too often, but I'll be following this thread. It's going to be a great tank for you!

Yes, I will be going with T-5's 4 rows of them but it will be an 8x80w setup so hopefully there will be enough coverage spreading 10' of bulb to cover approx 11' of tank (12' minus overflows on the ends).

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650725#post12650725 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pulp Fishin
Well I must say I just read calvin415 first 10.2g nano that won NTOTM April not sure what year. That first tank made me really wnat to find Harlequin Shrimo and 2nd made me wish I had the space/tools required for a project like this.

I love the idea of the sump in the back of the tank and I assume thats the idea Calvin is going for this tim aswell.

I can't wait too see whats comming next!

Cheers

Thanks bud, actually there will be a sump on this one so it's viewable from both sides but IMO it's the same concept, really long, short and narrow. I loved the original idea and was even thinking of just building a longer version of it, but I'd really like to get some fish this time. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12651419#post12651419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EBOLII
Interesting....I can't wait to see these joined pieces. How's bout a quick word or 2 on the process when you post yeah

Sure... First was the prep work not pictured where I routered the end of each piece to clean it up and ensure it was perfectly square with the adjacent edge.

Next was the setup, this step involved taping off the pieces to keep the WeldOn 42 from getting on the surface of the acrylic (not crucial but less sanding in the end) and then clamping everything in place.

Once everything was ready, I unclamped one side (shorter side for ease) seperating them approx 1/8-1/4" and ran a piece of tape along the joint on the bottom to keep the 42 in the joint. Once the 42 was applied, I squeeze the pieces back together (not too tight, you don't want a dry joint) and reapplied the clamps to ensure the pieces were in perfect alignment. Then remove the tape on the bottom holding the solvent in, and then the tape protecting the surface. This will allow you to see into the joint to ensure it's bubble free.

To get maximum strength with 42, it's recommended to cure the joint at 158*F for 4 hours within 24 hours of gluing. I don't have an easy bake oven yet, and I believe the strength of a standard temp cure to be enough but I hope allowing it to cure for 48 hours in a spring time garage (very warm) will help. In my practice welds with 1/2" material, the standard temp cure was strong enough to keep me from being able to break it by hand. Using 1/2" materials for all 6 sides, plus full euro and cross bracing I feel this tank is already being over built and additional curing should not be needed.

Okay, enough words huh? Here's the pics...

Here's my setup.
DSCN3935.jpg


A little closer.
DSCN3936.jpg


From the side.
DSCN3938.jpg


You can see the solvent drips, this is actually already cured for almost 48 hours, you can see how clear the solvent sets up.
DSCN3940.jpg


And the joint before sanding or polishing. All imperfections are on the surface and should sand clear with a little work.
DSCN3937.jpg
 
Where do you get acylic sheets? I'm think of making a littel rimless tank but not sure where to get a good source of cast acylic
 
look in your yellow pages for plastic supply houses ... specialty plastics, or call around to your local stores ... they may have a lead to someone who builds acrylic stuff ... lots of times you can call sign shops, they should be able to get you a lead on where to get material, or maybe even hook you up.
 
http://www.acplasticsinc.com/

They have a distributor here in Colorado. Best idea is to check your Yellow pages for Plastic suppliers and shop around until you find a supplier. We have other plastic shops here but they get their acrylic from A&C so then you end up paying a lot more. It also depends on if you need a full sheet of less than a full sheet and if you have the equipment to cut it. I have to order full sheets and then cut it myself for exact measurements. If you don't want a full sheet or need it cut for you, you'll pay more.
 
Wow the sand/polish will be great to see.....you think you will be able to tell? If a stranger was looking at it would they know if you didn't tell them?
 
glass is more affordable for sure ... with oil prices the way they are now ... acrylic is $baller$

look at glass cages .. they can be pretty good on prices.
 
Yes, I will be going with T-5's 4 rows of them but it will be an 8x80w setup so hopefully there will be enough coverage spreading 10' of bulb to cover approx 11' of tank (12' minus overflows on the ends).
I think 4 rows of 5' bulbs on each half of the tank will leave some dark areas. I would keep the endcaps as close together as possible in the middle of the tank, leaving about 5-6" uncovered near the overflows.

Or, if you stagger the 4 rows of 5 footers, you could light the majority of the tank's length pretty evenly, and then just have it a little dimmer on the ends by the overflow.

Or, how about 4 footers on each end and 3 footers in the middle? I haven't looked at them, but I'd bet the price of an 80w bulb is pretty close the cost of a 54w and 36w bulb combined. This way, you'd get full coverage, and 7' worth of bulb for pretty close to the cost of one 5' (80w) bulb.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12653578#post12653578 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EBOLII
Wow the sand/polish will be great to see.....you think you will be able to tell? If a stranger was looking at it would they know if you didn't tell them?

This joint wasn't 100% perfect, more like 95% as there are a couple tiny pockets that didn't fill on the bottom side (not sure how it happened) but may still look clear when polished and filled with water, but I'll likely be using this one for the bottom or the top (I have 3 more tries to get 2 100% pieces. :D) As for the joint, if you look for it you will likely be able to still see "something" but at a distance or even at an upclose glance I don't anticipate being able to see it.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12653776#post12653776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coolrock
I think 4 rows of 5' bulbs on each half of the tank will leave some dark areas. I would keep the endcaps as close together as possible in the middle of the tank, leaving about 5-6" uncovered near the overflows.

Or, if you stagger the 4 rows of 5 footers, you could light the majority of the tank's length pretty evenly, and then just have it a little dimmer on the ends by the overflow.

Or, how about 4 footers on each end and 3 footers in the middle? I haven't looked at them, but I'd bet the price of an 80w bulb is pretty close the cost of a 54w and 36w bulb combined. This way, you'd get full coverage, and 7' worth of bulb for pretty close to the cost of one 5' (80w) bulb.

I may have to stagger them a little... I looked at the 4, 4, 3 method, but that's 50% more bulbs to replace (12 -vs- 8)and would cost over $100 more than the 8x80w. In addition the 4, 4, 3 setup would only be H.O (at that price, could pay more for VHO) where the 8x80W is already a VHO T-5 setup and the 80w bulbs still cost the same as the 54w and 39w.

Now, if I can't get the spread out of the 10' of bulb that I need, I'll likely have to got with a 4, 4, 3 setup, but from people I've discussed it with, they expect the 8x80w to provide sufficient coverage. *fingers crossed*
 
Here's some pics of the initial sanding...

DSCN3943.jpg


And if anyone feels the joint isn't going to hold...

DSCN3944.jpg


DSCN3945.jpg


Holds, just fine. This is more bowing than this tank will see in a lifetime.
 
Unfortunately, I'm out of 400 grit W/D so I wasn't able to do too much polishing tonight. :( Here's where I'm at:

Just so you can compare, here's 120 grit dry...
DSCN3943.jpg


Here's 200 grit dry...
DSCN3946.jpg


220 wet...
DSCN3947.jpg


and flipped taking the other side from 200 dry sanded to 220 wet...
DSCN3948.jpg


Next will be 400 wet and so on... Just need to get more 400. :(
 
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