Good idea, but it doesn't make that much of a difference in terms of covering holes. Instead of cutting a hole out of my carpet, I cut three sides of a rectangle leaving the fourth side that is connected to the wall intact. If I want to take the tank down, I just remove the plumbing, plug up the holes, and push the flap down.xian said:
I think the tile is a good idea as long as you do it in a big enough area so that it also covers the area where you'll be standing and placing buckets or whatever else when you work on the tank. My carpet has taken a lot of abuse in the area right around my tank.
Before I put sheetrock up in my basement, I installed some plumbing in the wall frame that goes from my sump area all the way to the other end of the basement and into the house sump hole. Anything that goes into the house sump drains to the street drain.xian said:
Think of drainage at the tank also. This is one thing I don't have and wish I did. When I siphon, I have to carry 5g buckets out to the street drain which is pretty annoying.
What's the 'table top' feature? I forget.xian said:
xian said:
I started with a manifold and found it extremely inefficient. I used 1" plumbing, had 7 3/4" locline outlets, and used a 3000 gph pump to drive it. The output was weak at best. I ripped it out and got a Tunze setup and I'm happy I did. With the Tunze's, I'm getting a total of over 6,000 gph from only about 150W of power, the options provided for random flow by the controller are almost limitless, and I like the fact they eliminate external equipment. I typically don't like submersing electricity, but these pumps have some kind of engineering to make them safer than the typical submersible equipment.
