Connecting a frag tank with seahorse tank

[m0nkie]

Hi. I'm setting up a seahorse tank right now. 2'x2'x4' about 120 gallons. I'm building a custom stand for the tank and the sump. There will be a small frag tank on top of the sump stand.

Can I plumbed the frag tank with the sea horse tank???? I don't want it connected to my main DT (coral insurance), and I'm not sure how well a small 20gal frag tank will do alone. One issue I can see is temperature. But I think corals can handle 70-74 degrees.

any pathogen issues with frag tank if i don't keep fish inside? I'll use heavier CUC instead.

frag tank will consist of mostly rare zoas now.

thanks!

picture of the tank. still got a lot of work on it. cleaning, plumbing, resurface...

 

[vlangel]

It seems like that should work. When I lowered the temperature of my tanks, (71-74) to accommodate the seahorse's the corals did fine. They may not grow as fast at lower temps though.

 

[m0nkie]

another question. Do you guys prefer dry rocks or live rocks? would starting off with dry rocks be safer due to less chance of disease ?

 

[rayjay]

Biggest problem I see you having is keeping the water quality up sufficient for seahorses. A tank with four foot depth is not my ideal of being suitable for the frequent cleanings/vacummings the I feel are a big part of the success in keeping seahorses.
Seahorses need much more husbandry compared to a reef tank because trapped food/detritus provides food and bedding for nasty bacteria they are so susceptable to.
Also, they make things worse in that they masticate their food upon snicking, passing particulate matter out through the gills.
Some sps corals don't do well in the "dirty" water produced by seahorses.
There are many corals that don't do well at 74°F so you would need to research before placing them in the frag tank.
For me personally, I like to bleach the rocks and after neutralizing the bleach, cycle using ammonium chloride.

 

[m0nkie]

thank you! Can you tell me a little more about cleaning? I thought about the cleaning issue before. I'm planning a bare bottom with vertical rocks, mostly tonga branches. as for how to reach down there.. I'm thinking 3ft pvc connected to a tube, connected to a pump and vacuum.

all this is based on the assumption that I only need to keep the bottom clean and the glass wiped. if you can tell me what your cleaning process is like and how often, that will be greatly appreciated!

 

[rayjay]

Well this is what I strive for, but don't always accomplish.
I figure I have to attempt the best as I tend to get a bit lazy like many do, and let things slide a bit. Usually it ends up costing the seahorses some time down the road.
I don't have any suggestions for cleaning that depth though as I've never had anything deeper than a standard 90g tank.
For my seahorse tanks though, I like to have the rock in the sump so there is less to trap uneaten food and detritus which provide beeding for and food for nasty bacteria.
Any hitching/decor can be problematic so pay special attention to the crap that can get caught in there.
The longer you leave anything to decay, the faster the overall water quality will degrade.
The water quality that often kills seahorses cannot be measured with hobby test kits so it's a case of being sure you "overdo" the husbandry and water changes.

 

[WerezMiePie]

If your worried about the sand floor try nassarius snails, another might be a diamond watch gobie with that much open bed they shouldn't get aggressive and when they do the most they usually do is spit sand. For the cracks and stuff, pepper shrimp do not putting any other types of cleaner shrimp in with the seahorses, you might also try bumble snails they are carnivorous and will eat the dead stuff trapped in rocks. I don't see why it would be a problem any ways I got a massive purples bush gorg, a few random softies and sps in with my seahorse tank, just be wary of coral hitchhikers.