connecting float valve to RO filter output

steve671

steve671

Member
On my new system, I have plumbed the output of my R/O filter to my tank. I would like it to automatically top off the system to compensate for evaporation.
Is there a float valve availible that can handle the pressure that the R/O filter puts out? If so, can someone direct me to it.
I would like to avoid a separate container to hold water. I want it to go directly from the filter to the sump or tank.
Thanks
 
Thats not really a good idea. If the float fails you flood your system with fresh water and nothing to shut it off killing everything. A holding tank is better so you can only put that volume in the display tank even if the float fails.
 
I just asked about this too, I have been using the Kent float valve on my RO/DI for about a year with no probs. You can get them at marinedepot.com for pretty cheap, like 15 bucks or so. I have been using a holding container though. I am looking into plumbing it direct but it may not be a good idea from what I am reading, Good luck.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7473749#post7473749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
Thats not really a good idea. If the float fails you flood your system with fresh water and nothing to shut it off killing everything. A holding tank is better so you can only put that volume in the display tank even if the float fails.
Click to expand...

I see your point.
I could combat that problem if it were to occurr by installing an overflow in my sump that goes to the drain. Although this may seem like even more work, but would be simple for where I am at right now. If the float valve were to fail the level in the sump would rise to a point were it would flow out a bulkhead to the drain system.
 
Even with an overflow, you are still pumping more and more freshwater into the tank from the sump - the mix would get less and less salty.

You can put a float SWITCH connected to a solenoid valve several inches above the water line in the sump. Not cheap, but it's about the only thing that will shut down the RO if the float sticks.
 
Like plaz said, you are diluting the saltwater. The flood is a minor irritation compared to the loss of life due to hyposalinity. You can get dual float switches that give you a back up in case one fails and plumb them with a feed pump or pressurized system and a electrically operated solenoid valve. That way you have a level of redundancy. www.autotopoff.com has setups like this.
I would still use a holding tank though and not plumb directly to the RO system for an added level of safety.
 
Ditto the holding container for the water instead of directly plumbed (safter)-- and if you are going to go this route it will make it easier to dose kalkwassar if you choose to at somepoint...

just throttle your kalk drip to approximate your make up...
 
I have never had one fail (knock on wood). In my opinion, switches, valves, pumps all have equal potential to fail. I just like the idea of simplicity and choose to use the float valve.

I plumb mine to a DIY kalk reactor and then gravity feed to sump, both through float valves. I also have inline shutoff valves to throttle back the incoming flow (if needed) or to shutoff for maintenance. I leave mine full open with a house pressure of ~80 psi.

Here is what I am using. A picture of the setup can sort of be seen in my gallery.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...USPlastic&category_name=6109&product_id=12596

Good luck!
 
I use the dual float switch version from auto topoff on two of my tanks fed direct from my RO/DI. been running for over a year and no problems, got the "snail guard" to keep critters out of the switch. I don't pack 5 gallon jugs around anymore.:D don't forget to get the auto shutoff for the ro so you don't waste water.
 
I have a KENT float valve attached to the overflow of my 75 gallon sump. I have the float inside the overflow so it doesn't get buffeted by my powerheads. I have used this for 7 years with no failure. My water pressure is 85psi. Float valves are pretty simple mechanical devices and should not fail. When I think about all of the potential things that can go wrong with our tanks that could kill our fish I think float valve failure is waaaay down on the list. This is such a simple, inexpensive and effective way to top off the tank that I think it is worth the miniscule risk.

Also. I have about 20 feet of R/O water line looped and floating in my sump. The water from my tap goes through the loops of tubing before it goes to my R/O unit. This warms the water from 50 degrees to 78 degrees before it enters my R/O DI which makes it filter more efficiently. And no, it does not drop the temperature of my tank. (I have about 200 gallons circulating)
 
Well put Mark. I do the same with the coiling of the line input to the RO unit. Cold WI winters.:rolleyes:

Why people complicate things with more electricity is beyond me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

sickman
Filtering out Chloramines in South East Florida
Replies
11
Views
289
griss
griss
Z
Plumbing to shower head question
Replies
2
Views
145
zeebies
Z
T
Reef octopus Varios 4 0-10V connection to Hydros controllers
Replies
2
Views
267
tmann51
T
E
Red Sea weir overflow
Replies
9
Views
366
griss
griss
A
Fleece filter bypass problems (Innovitech X filter)
Replies
1
Views
514
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
Back
Top