Copepod Problem (Not Mandarin Related)
- Thread starter Gladrial
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gcline87
New member
Refugiums should'nt cause bacteria problems if done properly (adequate flow, shallow sand bed, as well as keeping HARDY macro algea such as gracilaria, caulerpa, and cheatomorpha). I prefer a shallow sand bed to a deep sand bed simply because I am not comfortable taking the risk of accidently releasing sulfer and anerobic bacteria in the water column from a DSB. Yes I know a DSB has its advantages, but its not for me. The refugium provides a safe breeding ground for copepods to replenish the DT. If a refugium still cannot keep up with gluttonous fish a culture tank is your surefire method.
To answer your question about the benefits of amphipods. Yes they are beneficial as a food source. Amphipods, copepods, rotifers, krill, and mysis are all zooplankton. The ocean food chain is as such: phytoplankton is eaten by zooplankton, which is eaten by fish.
The culture tank can be small 5-10 gallons. So space is very minimal and can be kept really anywhere, even a garage. In a peer reviewed article by Doctors Zaleha and Busra they successfully bred copepods in water between 40-110 degrees but had the highest yield in around 78 degrees and a salinity between 5 and 25 parts per thousand. So temperature and salinity are not too big of a concern if you ask me.
If you decide to give it a try you should do bi-monthly harvesting and weekly phyto dosing (enough to have a medium green color. If the water turns clear then they consumed all the phyto). You'll need a cheap refugium light to keep the phyto alive and a very small airstone or bubbler running slow enough that you can barly count the bubbles. The phyto dosing keeps phosphates out of the DT and drastically speeds up breeding. Finding a way to keep your temperature up will speed up both breedy and sexual maturation, but is not necessary. Pretty simple if you ask me. Not to mention that its a healthy natural feeding method in contrast to processed foods.
For benthic copepods a standard 5-10 gallon tank is great due to the larger surface area along the bottom of the tank for them to breed. If you want pelagic copepods (water column types) a five gallon bucket works better because it is tall with a larger water column for them to swim in and reproduce. Pelagic copepods would be beneficial if you keep anthias, seahoarses, etc.
Happy reefing
To answer your question about the benefits of amphipods. Yes they are beneficial as a food source. Amphipods, copepods, rotifers, krill, and mysis are all zooplankton. The ocean food chain is as such: phytoplankton is eaten by zooplankton, which is eaten by fish.
The culture tank can be small 5-10 gallons. So space is very minimal and can be kept really anywhere, even a garage. In a peer reviewed article by Doctors Zaleha and Busra they successfully bred copepods in water between 40-110 degrees but had the highest yield in around 78 degrees and a salinity between 5 and 25 parts per thousand. So temperature and salinity are not too big of a concern if you ask me.
If you decide to give it a try you should do bi-monthly harvesting and weekly phyto dosing (enough to have a medium green color. If the water turns clear then they consumed all the phyto). You'll need a cheap refugium light to keep the phyto alive and a very small airstone or bubbler running slow enough that you can barly count the bubbles. The phyto dosing keeps phosphates out of the DT and drastically speeds up breeding. Finding a way to keep your temperature up will speed up both breedy and sexual maturation, but is not necessary. Pretty simple if you ask me. Not to mention that its a healthy natural feeding method in contrast to processed foods.
For benthic copepods a standard 5-10 gallon tank is great due to the larger surface area along the bottom of the tank for them to breed. If you want pelagic copepods (water column types) a five gallon bucket works better because it is tall with a larger water column for them to swim in and reproduce. Pelagic copepods would be beneficial if you keep anthias, seahoarses, etc.
Happy reefing
The whole idea of a refugium is the "what not". Won't be anything bad introduced from a refugium
Anyone thinking that a refugium can introduce bad things doesn't have a good understanding of them.They eat detritus, algae, and uneaten fish food. Good things to have. Also some of the fish will eat them.
Again, thanks you all for your advice. I've already learned so much!
"In a peer reviewed article by Doctors Zaleha and Busra they successfully bred copepods in water between 40-110 degrees"
No kidding! Hmmm...It doesn't get much colder than that around here anyway. Might give it a go.
And based on what I'm hearing, I shouldn't be scared to set up a refugium. I think when I advance my set up in the future, I'll add one.
"In a peer reviewed article by Doctors Zaleha and Busra they successfully bred copepods in water between 40-110 degrees"
No kidding! Hmmm...It doesn't get much colder than that around here anyway. Might give it a go.
And based on what I'm hearing, I shouldn't be scared to set up a refugium. I think when I advance my set up in the future, I'll add one.
SpartaReef
New member
The critter carriers with holes in them make a great "in tank" refugium/pod hotel.
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