Coral coloration FAQ

I have a question or two: Do the zoox reproduce along with the corals, in a perpetual symbiosis?

Yes. Zoox become "senescent" and are eliminated (I think it is probably actually viral lysis, but anyway..) and those in the tissue divide by mitosis according to host nutrient limitation or seawater nutrient

There's a bit of a chicken and egg situation, I assume, but presumably at some point the coral existed first, then the zoox arrived. Similarly, what happens when a bleached coral seems to regain it's zoox (perhaps there are always a few that remain to regenerate)?

Yup. Most recovery seems to happen from remaining populations although they can acquire them from the water column (but not to the degree that a pale coral becomes brown again). Bleaching is a gradient or spectrum - the extreme ened of noramlly dynamic population fluxes, and I have never heard of a case where a bleaching event resulted in the loss of all zooxanthellae.

Can they migrate in the current or do they generate a spore like state as anaerobic bacteria do to survive in oxygenated conditions when necessary?

They are flagellated and motile in the water column, and lose the flagellum when taken into coral tissue, but regrow the flagellum if re-released back in the water from the tissue

If they do sometimes migrate, are there ever cases when differently colored, but otherwise identical colonies mix colors? I've never heard of it, but wonder what mechanism would either facilitate it or prevent it.

Zoox are golden to deep brown, and color patterns in corals would not really be explained well by hosting multiple types, but this does happen and is the normal state for many corals.
 
Thanks again. Fascinating stuff.
When zoox "abandon ship" is it a self preservation move, looking for more favorable conditions, or are they generally sick or dying at that point?
The on demand flagellum is a pretty nice design feature feature, isn't it. It doesn't get in the way or put a draw on metabolism except when it is needed.
-Ron
 
The question of who is in control - coral or algae - in terms of such uptake or expulsion, is really a big question. Its not certain.
 
Re the increased browning of sps in high nutrient conditions, does this relate to both dissolved and particulate nutrients? I just wondered as since changing over to a skimmerless mud system I see improved colouration of my sps, whether it be tip colouration, overall colour or fluorescence. This change over to mud has been accompanied by reduced dissolved nutrients (nitrates dropped from about 20ppm to undetectable with my home kits, phosphates have dropped from 0.3ppm to undetectable), but massively increased particulate 'snow' in the form of tiny 'bugs' (sorry, don't know exactly what they are) and detritus in suspension.

Can it be that given sufficient particulate food some corals can dispense with much of their zoox' as they are injesting sufficient material to meet their nutritional needs, resulting in an unmasking of the underlying colours and maybe even exposing the coral to more light (in the abscence of the zoox's) so needing more pigment-type 'sunfactors'?......all this in the presence of very low dissolved nutrients too, suppressing the growth of the zoox's.

Kev
 
Its pretty much just dissolved nutrients. Particulates feed the corals, and then they can control what is released to zoox. The colors aren't necessarily masked or underlying - they might not be produced at all given the irradiance conditions. I'm pretty sure your case is from reducing dissolved N levels.
 
Thanks Eric. I thought maybe the reduced N was the main reason...jsut wondered if increased particle feeding might reduce the zoox's further by reducing the corals dependance on them. Don't mind either way though, just happy for things to be looking good :-)
BTW, hope you had a good vacation
Kev
 
Eric,

thanks for all the help here first off.

I am setting up a 75 gallon right now. we are modifying the hood to get the lights a little further from the water

the tank is 20 inches deep. is four inches a good target when using 175 watt 14K hamiltons?
 
for my case, all my sps r not coloring up...
my N02, N03, Phosphate all undetechable
and my cal is 300-320 and alk is 8-9

I'm currently running 2 x 250 10k coralvue bulb SE and 1 x 150 BLV 20k DE bulb...

so far only 1 sps is turning green and one light pink.. the rest still very dull brown....

I dont find anything wrong in my water parameter... wondering why it's not coloring up..

tonight I'm getting Hamilton Technology MH Bulbs 14k for my 2 x 250 SE, going to replace the coralvue bulb and see will my sps color up..
 
Hi Eric

I am interested in Tatu's post above and your reply. Are there areas of the world where it is more prudent to buy acro's from?

I had some Fiji (I am told) acro's that travelled half way across the world and quickly turned 'brown' in my tank. I have other acro's that came from Bali (I am told) that have retained their colour and still look amazing.

I just wondered if some areas are able to retain their colours more than others.
 
It depends on the light environment where they were acquired and the nutrient levels. If corals are collected from shallow offshore waters, they are less likely to look as they did in a tank than if they were collected from deeper or nutrient richer areas. One thing that is certainly possible is that there are different clades of zoox involved. If the coral has a strain optimally adapted to certain environments to max photosynthesis for the coral, then it may not operate well in another environment and the coral may need or not need to produce any fluorescing proteins to moderate the environment. This is, of course, provided that the fluorescing roteins in the species in question are light related, but at least in Acropora in the Pacific I think they are.
 
Eric, I have a question,

You say that zooanthelle are usually brown or green, but many corals (Xenia, for example) which are apparently dependent upon zoos have no green or brown coloration anywhere that I can see with my naked eyes.

Is it just that the zoos aren't as concentrated in these animals?
 
photo period

photo period

hi eric i was asked by a local lfs to help him with coral browning
in his tanks
lights are 3x 250 mn 14k over 72x18x24 tanks
alk 9
calcium 420
phosphates un detected
nitrates undetected
mag 1390
feed every 2 days pytho and cyclopeez
the only thing i feel could be wrong is his photo period which is
11 hours
i recently took a browned acro put it in my own tank 72x30x24
which has 3X400 mn 14k photo period 71\2 hours
4 weeks later its changing colour almost daily and has setled at light golden brown stem with pastle blue tips
although my lights are stronger i never used to get browning with 3 x 250 mh 14k
your thoughts would be apprecaited
 
The difference is likely due to the increased irradiance level of the 400 v 250 watt lamps.

Most Xenia are brown or at least have brown areas. White ones are generaly bleached although some morphs do have whitish tan areas - the zoox are dense, trust me!
 
Eric-

Could you comment on dosing organic carbon (Vodka or possibly Vinegar) and the effects on coral coloration? It's one of the 'hot' topics of late and I would like to know what your thoughts/perspective is on this.

Welcome Back!

-Russ
 
TOO much TOO Little TOO Crazy

TOO much TOO Little TOO Crazy

Hi Eric,
First off thanks for your guidance and time.
I wanted to chime in here and share my worries about lighting/nutrients. Sorry for the logfile but I want to provide as much info as I can
I have a 48X18DX31T AGA tank with a 39" wier overflow running along the entire back of the tank. 6"DSB
(2) 250 Watt Aqua Connect 14K bulbs 6"off the water
Ampmaster 2100 moving about 1900 GPH and (2) seio 6?? in tank pumps.
40 Gallon breeder sump with Macro and a Turboflotor 1000 with the recirc modification. (about 1/2 cup a day of skimate)
(2) 3" fish Tomato clown and a yellow Tang
many snails and 1 blue claw hermit.
I keep sps within 18 inches of the light with most about 7" of water surface.
I feed a fishmush mix two times per week and I skim 24 X 7. my corals get good polyp extension and grow fairly well
Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia all generally @ 0
Phosphates > .1
Temp 77.2 - 79.2
Cal = 400 - 450
Alk 7 D
All makeup is RO/DI with 180 Ml Store Vinegar and 3 -5 tsp lime 24X7 float controlled (about 1 - 2 gal a day)

I can grow great purple Coraline on the bottoms of all rock and shaded areas and on the sandbed under the rock but hardly anything on the direct light fall areas.
my corals all grow fairly well and I have some yellow SPS that look good and I have a Bali Green Slimer that is kind of yellow green. If I get blue or pink corals they all seem to loose their color after about 4 to 6 weeks and just sort of look light brown.
I do not know If I have too much light bright noon type light and not enough morning / evening defussed light and that is my issue or if I don't have enough suspended nutrient in the water to keep them all happy.
I get corals from a friend who has a beautiful tank with very colorful SPS and they also turn light brown.
I am confused about the double ended 14K 250's and the lack of coraline coverage in the lighted areas, can I have too much light and actually overloading the corals causing the lack of some forms of coloration?
 
boost your alkalinity, increase the water flow and move the corals up towards the light...there just might not be enough light from those bulbs, and especially depending on where they are in the tank, to produce the pigments. Also, if the PO4 is that high, I'd double check the nitrates, too....either can make a big difference in the density and pigmentation of the zoox that will make corals appear brown
 
i am running a 250w 14k mh how far should it be from the water ? some people say 12 inches some say less , what do you find gets the best results without raising tank temp via the light thanks inadvance gary:confused:
 
Please tell me more about proper nutrient levels. I'm confused after reading the comments about underskimming and overskimming.

Is it possible to have "excess nutrients" when the nitrate levels are 0 and the phosphate levels are < 0.03? Are there other significant nutrients that contribute to "excessive nutrients"? Are there appropriate/reliable tests for any other nutrients?

How do I know if I'm overskimming?? I'm trying to maximize my filtration/skimming to keep nitrate and phosphate levels at 0. How do I know when I've done too much? How do I know when the filtation has pulled too much of the vital nutrients in an attempt to keep the undesirable nutrients (nitrate and phosphate) at a low level? Once you get to readings of undetectable how do you know when you've gotten to the point of limiting nutrients that corals need.

If I'm able to feed zooplankton daily or every other day while keeping my nitrates and phosphates at 0, am I still providing enough nutrients for my corals? What is the indication that I'm providing enough nutrients for my corals but not creating conditions of "excessive nutrients"? If I have browning specimens how do I know if the problem is 1) excessive nutrinets 2) not enough nutrients or 3) one of the thousand other possiblities like lighting, water flow, trace elements, etc. I guess I'm hoping for some guidance to rule out nutrient problems in general. How do I know if I'm providing enough but not too much?

Jeremy
 

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