Coral nutrients while fighting Cyano.

C

catchandreleas

New member
Struggling with a tank that has been up and running for about 2 years now.
Its a 20G AIO.
Prime HD
MP10
Skimmer
Had Phosban/Carbon Filtration but I removed that a few weeks ago
Currently using filter socks and Purigen only in conjunction with skimmer

PH 8.3
P04 0
N03 0-2 depending on the day
Ca 440
Mg 1350
KH 8.5


about 3 weeks ago I had a Cyano outbreak. I haven't had any algae issues in a while and I normally let these things run their course. However the corals were starting to struggle and retract so I figured Id try chemi clean to speed things up.
Followed instructions on that, ran it a second time a few days later and neither round worked (they helped)

The corals (misc torches and lps) are really starting to struggle. SPS seem okay.

I have been basting and vacuuming what I can every day or two. But that seems to be a lot of water changing which may also be keeping nutrients too low for corals.

So im not sure what to do here, Im worried the cyano will outlast the coral if I keep nutrients this low, but I dont want to add anything as it will help the cyano.

Ive read a lot of differing opinions on how to handle this, but since chemi clean didn't work, and the cyan seems to have my coral in a chokehold Im not sure what to do. Id love to ride it out but I dont want to lose coral in the process.

Should I keep nutrients low, hope coral makes it out the other side and keep doing water changes/vacuuming it out?

Or should I get nutrients up, decrease water changes, and hope the cyano goes away?


Any thoughts would be helpful.
 
I too have a similar situation in my tank and will be looking forward for the solution on this.

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Coral nutrients while fighting Cyano.

What test kits are you using?

The API kits aren't good enough to get a proper read on PO4 and NO3 and most use Red Sea Pro (incl me), Salifert or Hanna checkers for that.

What are you doing for nutrient export - carbon dosing, Lanthanum Chloride, GFO etc?
You said you were using Phosban previously - anything else now?

I'm only 2 years into the hobby myself so take my advice with that in mind but I would start by using a good quality test kit to measure NO3 and PO4 reasonably accurately, reduce nutrient export and allow those two parameters to rise. I haven't had Cyano issues but I understand it's commonly triggered by very low levels of these two parameters.

My tank had various issues that I was able to get on top of after doing what I described. I'm currently at 6 ppm NO3 and 0.10 ppm PO4. I've started carbon dosing small amounts again as I felt the NO3 was getting a little high compared to the PO4 and some algae was getting a little more prevalent than I liked. It took 12 months after I initially ceased carbon dosing however to get to this point.


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Any chance you could post a few clear pics in natural white light to look at entire tank, would be good to show bioload... rock...flow...inhabitants & growth etc.
So Chemi-Clean didn't work? That is odd... it usually works great for a month or two, (won't solve the issue long term tho), must be something else then.... like a" heavy bioload" for the 20 maybe, or weak water flow, overfeeding, not enough live rock. You didn't mention the full bioload how many fish coral etc.. so that is what comes to my mind first without pics. A 20 gal can get pretty packed in 2 yrs. especially without a large sump to help out with extra rock & filtration its a delicate balance on a nano, i know i have one myself that is just over 2 yrs. also.
 
Perform a good siphoning of the cyano (do NOT baste and blast it around the tank) actually suck/siphon it up.
Then turn off lights for 3 days.
The corals will do just fine for those 3 days and can easily tolerate that.

Repeat that process every other week until cyano is gone..

And stop worrying about your nutrient levels.. That is not an issue..
 
Tastee said:
What test kits are you using?

The API kits aren't good enough to get a proper read on PO4 and NO3 and most use Red Sea Pro (incl me), Salifert or Hanna checkers for that.

What are you doing for nutrient export - carbon dosing, Lanthanum Chloride, GFO etc?
You said you were using Phosban previously - anything else now?

I'm only 2 years into the hobby myself so take my advice with that in mind but I would start by using a good quality test kit to measure NO3 and PO4 reasonably accurately, reduce nutrient export and allow those two parameters to rise. I haven't had Cyano issues but I understand it's commonly triggered by very low levels of these two parameters.

My tank had various issues that I was able to get on top of after doing what I described. I'm currently at 6 ppm NO3 and 0.10 ppm PO4. I've started carbon dosing small amounts again as I felt the NO3 was getting a little high compared to the PO4 and some algae was getting a little more prevalent than I liked. It took 12 months after I initially ceased carbon dosing however to get to this point.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Test kits are salifert, numbers should be accurate.

Only running filter sock, purigen, and slimmer now. No additional filters or media.
My bioload is low, two clowns and a goby so I found nutrients testing at zero which is why I'm assuming the cyano issue started in the first place.
 
mcgyvr said:
Perform a good siphoning of the cyano (do NOT baste and blast it around the tank) actually suck/siphon it up.
Then turn off lights for 3 days.
The corals will do just fine for those 3 days and can easily tolerate that.

Repeat that process every other week until cyano is gone..

And stop worrying about your nutrient levels.. That is not an issue..
Click to expand...

That's what I have been reading. Which is causing me to think it's something else that is irritating the coral. Unless the cyano itself can be the main irritant, in which case that would make more sense.
 
Cyano can certainly irritate corals..

Treat the cyano, don't worry about the corals nutritional needs at this time. They will most certainly be able to survive in an environment where the water is changed frequently.
 
So I vacuumed the cyano off the sand bed on Tuesday night. Vacuumed again on Wednesday night, there wasn’t much at all as the lights were off on Wednesday.

Lights have been off since Tuesday night as well, so today will be day 3 if I leave them off. All corals are very retracted so I’m tempted to turn the lights on today, which would have been a two day blackout.

Haven’t had a chance to test water yet, but it’s been stable, unfortunately nitrates and phosphates are still testing 0.
 
The corals will obviously be closed up but are not harmed by a 3 day blackout.
They will open right back up once the lights come on again.. Don't worry there..

Go the full 3 days lights out then turn lights back on and give it another siphon/water change and repeat every other week as needed.
 
catchandreleas said:
So I vacuumed the cyano off the sand bed on Tuesday night. Vacuumed again on Wednesday night, there wasn't much at all as the lights were off on Wednesday.

Lights have been off since Tuesday night as well, so today will be day 3 if I leave them off. All corals are very retracted so I'm tempted to turn the lights on today, which would have been a two day blackout.

Haven't had a chance to test water yet, but it's been stable, unfortunately nitrates and phosphates are still testing 0.
Click to expand...
Is it complete blackout(almost no light reaching the tank) or the just the lights on the tank are off??

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mcgyvr said:
The corals will obviously be closed up but are not harmed by a 3 day blackout.
They will open right back up once the lights come on again.. Don't worry there..

Go the full 3 days lights out then turn lights back on and give it another siphon/water change and repeat every other week as needed.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, Thanks for the advice.
 
101010 said:
Is it complete blackout(almost no light reaching the tank) or the just the lights on the tank are off??
Click to expand...

A "Complete" blackout usually isn't needed nor recommended.
Sometimes fish may get attacked,etc... depending on whats in the tank if you go full black..

The point is that cyano requires light as one of its fuel sources.. As long as you aren't getting excessive stray light/sunlight,etc... into the tank usually turning the lights out is sufficient even in an inhabited room.
A blanket/towel over the front if the room is already lit would be better than not having it but still provides enough light for fish,etc.. to still move around safely..
 
mcgyvr said:
A "Complete" blackout usually isn't needed nor recommended.
Sometimes fish may get attacked,etc... depending on whats in the tank if you go full black..

The point is that cyano requires light as one of its fuel sources.. As long as you aren't getting excessive stray light/sunlight,etc... into the tank usually turning the lights out is sufficient even in an inhabited room.
A blanket/towel over the front if the room is already lit would be better than not having it but still provides enough light for fish,etc.. to still move around safely..
Click to expand...

Sound logic regarding complete darkness.

In this case there is enough ambient light from the house/equipment. I haven't noticed anything to be concerned about with the fish at this point.
 
So lights will be back on schedule today.
I have been feeding fish as per usual, should I spot feed some reef foods today or would that add too much potential fuel for cyano again?
Will corals even utilize a spot feeding while they are retracted?
 
mcgyvr said:
You do not need to feed your corals..
Click to expand...

Figured it may help them get healthy faster.


Update. Lights were on today and corals started to look a bit better. Cyano is currently still almost non existent. Water tested same as previously with exception of NO3, that was up slightly to just shy of 5. P04 is almost undetectable.
 
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