Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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Host a GTA reefcentral member viewing.... then we can all give a opinion on the lighting :thumbsup:

Tank looks amazing guys... you really did a great job from A to Z.

I do have one question that may be stupid but I didn't know that this was true. Mr. Wilson you said the pumps use 420 watts when running full but you have dialed them down to 50% and there only using 92watts. When you say dial down, are you using something electrical to dial them down? or does simply using a valve half closed lower the consumption of energy? It makes sense that you get less flow when you close the valve but I didn't know that it would make the pump use less power. How does that make sense?
 
Host a GTA reefcentral member viewing.... then we can all give a opinion on the lighting :thumbsup:

Tank looks amazing guys... you really did a great job from A to Z.

I do have one question that may be stupid but I didn't know that this was true. Mr. Wilson you said the pumps use 420 watts when running full but you have dialed them down to 50% and there only using 92watts. When you say dial down, are you using something electrical to dial them down? or does simply using a valve half closed lower the consumption of energy? It makes sense that you get less flow when you close the valve but I didn't know that it would make the pump use less power. How does that make sense?

i think i can answer this one for mr.wilson
what is happening here is hes turning down the frequency meaning the electrical side
its measured in hertz

they are called frequency drives

another way of putting it is your just turning down the speed
i may be wrong though

vic
 
Host a GTA reefcentral member viewing.... then we can all give a opinion on the lighting :thumbsup:

Tank looks amazing guys... you really did a great job from A to Z.

I do have one question that may be stupid but I didn't know that this was true. Mr. Wilson you said the pumps use 420 watts when running full but you have dialed them down to 50% and there only using 92watts. When you say dial down, are you using something electrical to dial them down? or does simply using a valve half closed lower the consumption of energy? It makes sense that you get less flow when you close the valve but I didn't know that it would make the pump use less power. How does that make sense?

That's a perfectly reasonable question. When we had the temporary 1HP spa pumps on the tank I used a kilowatt meter to see how valving it down affected energy consumption. At full power the 1HP pumps used 980 watts. At about 50% (via ball valve) the pump draw was 920watts. Yes it uses less electricity but only marginally.

We are using a variable frequency device (VFD) made by Venotec specifically for these pumps. It lowers the pumps RPM without putting the stress on plumbing and pumps that you get with valving it down.

The total operating wattage is 500 watts with a slight increase as each pump goes up to 90% capacity every 11-15 minutes, for a one minute duration.

Venotec has an 80 watt version coming out in January. This would be an excellent sump return pump or closed loop pump for a smaller system.
 
shawn instead of 14k,you may want to give reflux 12k bulbs a try
i used them ,they werent to blue no yellow corals responded well.

did you give radium a try.
you may want to wait till the MH burn in,150 hrs
vic
 
That's a perfectly reasonable question. When we had the temporary 1HP spa pumps on the tank I used a kilowatt meter to see how valving it down affected energy consumption. At full power the 1HP pumps used 980 watts. At about 50% (via ball valve) the pump draw was 920watts. Yes it uses less electricity but only marginally.

We are using a variable frequency device (VFD) made by Venotec specifically for these pumps. It lowers the pumps RPM without putting the stress on plumbing and pumps that you get with valving it down.

The total operating wattage is 500 watts with a slight increase as each pump goes up to 90% capacity every 11-15 minutes, for a one minute duration.

Venotec has an 80 watt version coming out in January. This would be an excellent sump return pump or closed loop pump for a smaller system.


OK, my turn. Mr Wilson, when the pump controller (controller for 5 pumps) tells an individual pump to ramp up to 100% does that mean 100% of full rated capacity or does it mean 100% of the max set by each individual dial for the pump itself. Put slightly differently (but same question) if the pump dial is set at 50% does that become the new max representing 100% to the central controller??

Peter
 
That's a perfectly reasonable question. When we had the temporary 1HP spa pumps on the tank I used a kilowatt meter to see how valving it down affected energy consumption. At full power the 1HP pumps used 980 watts. At about 50% (via ball valve) the pump draw was 920watts. Yes it uses less electricity but only marginally.

We are using a variable frequency device (VFD) made by Venotec specifically for these pumps. It lowers the pumps RPM without putting the stress on plumbing and pumps that you get with valving it down.

The total operating wattage is 500 watts with a slight increase as each pump goes up to 90% capacity every 11-15 minutes, for a one minute duration.

Venotec has an 80 watt version coming out in January. This would be an excellent sump return pump or closed loop pump for a smaller system.


ahhhhh makes sense.

Peter seriously that tank and fish room are both amazing. I have always said that I wanted a fish room with many small tanks like you have their more then I want a monster tank. Its just more interesting to watch different species seperatly and have many species that you normally could not in a full community system. I love walking into fish stores and seeing all the different species and admire them. Issues we reefers have is were restricted to quite a bit when it comes to fish selection. So many amazing animals that we can't buy because of the corals. Now you have the oppurtunity to have both. Awesome
 
shawn instead of 14k,you may want to give reflux 12k bulbs a try
i used them ,they werent to blue no yellow corals responded well.

did you give radium a try.
you may want to wait till the MH burn in,150 hrs
vic

We have a 12,500 kelvin Aqualine Buschke 400 Watt and I like the colour, but it will drown out actinics at that wattage. Shouldn't be a problem at 250W. I'm sure Radiums would look nice. I hear a lot of people using them, but just haven't got around to trying them yet.

When Peter has his open house people are welcome to bring spare bulbs for us to try and coral frags are always welcome :)
 
OK, my turn. Mr Wilson, when the pump controller (controller for 5 pumps) tells an individual pump to ramp up to 100% does that mean 100% of full rated capacity or does it mean 100% of the max set by each individual dial for the pump itself. Put slightly differently (but same question) if the pump dial is set at 50% does that become the new max representing 100% to the central controller??

Peter

Do statutory holiday rates apply :) It's Thanksgiving weekend here in Canada for those who don't know. Our growing season is shorter so we have less time to be thankful for and subsequently celebrate earlier than our friends to the south.

The dial on the pump power supplies are overridden by the ACS pump controller. If the controller in taken offline, the pumps revert to the default setting of the dials. In other words, the dials only work if the controller is off. In more other words, the pumps run at 100% of the full capacity, not 100% of the dial setting capacity.

At some point in time we need to make a chart to plot the cycle of the pumps. Right now it is set for...

Pump #1 (master sump return) = 15 min 65% > 1 min 90%
Pump #2 (slave closed loop A) = 14 min 50% > 1 min 90%
Pump #3 (slave closed loop B) = 13 min 50% > 1 min 90%
Pump #4 (slave closed loop C) = 12 min 50% > 1 min 90%
Pump #5 (slave closed loop D) = 11 min 50% > 1 min 90%
 
I have a question. I am thinking/planning/dreaming a build of my own and this tank has inspired my design process big time. One question I did have was is this system based on a bunch of SPS? I am not much or corals and aside from an anemone for clowns I am not looking for much. Would this simplify my filtration selection a lot or would I still need the phosphate reactor and calcium reactor ect?
 
I have a question. I am thinking/planning/dreaming a build of my own and this tank has inspired my design process big time. One question I did have was is this system based on a bunch of SPS? I am not much or corals and aside from an anemone for clowns I am not looking for much. Would this simplify my filtration selection a lot or would I still need the phosphate reactor and calcium reactor ect?

Yes, there will be a whole mess of corals that will change the landscape of the aquarium and drive the filtration requirements. Heavy metals, and nutrients (phosphate & nitrate) retard the growth of corals, but they also feed nuisance algae.

Yes, you can omit some of the more exotic pieces of equipment but in the end they do assist with keeping the tank clean and looking good. A calcium reactor will add calcium that will lower phosphate thus decreasing nuisance algae populations and increase the growth of beneficial/desirable coraline algae. Using a refugium will help feed fish and further reduce nitrate and phosphate so you will have to clean the glass and substrate less often. A granular ferric oxide (GFO) media reactor will lower phosphates, and in some cases NP biopellet reactors, denitrification reactors, and sulphur reactors are necessary. Since nature is thrown in the mix, there is no sure fire (cookie cutter) method for success.

Having said all that, fish only systems are easier to run because fish have a high tolerance to phosphate, nitrate, and heavy metals, at least in comparison to corals. Keep in mind, a coral tank is a higher order ecosystem where bacteria and corals can help strike a balance between nutrient import (feeding) and nutrient export (excess removal).

Big tanks are always easier tan smaller ones and there are other ways of minimizing nuisance algae like directing light away from viewing panels. I recommend a UV sterilizer for disease and to some extent algae control. Ozone is another good tool, especially for fish only systems, as they kill some beneficial organisms in so called "natural systems". A mechanical filter of some sort will help keep the water clear. You don't need nearly as much flow and there is little benefit from variable flow or wave makers for fish only.

I don't use protein skimmers on commercial fish holding systems, but they are still useful for some fish only display tanks. Despite all the hype and high prices, protein skimmers are by no means the most efficient filtration device at our avail. They are less efficient than the other methods mentioned above and cost considerably more.

This company has some solid, well built, cost effective media reactors. I was going to go with them until I saw the Skimz line and decided to streamline everything. http://www.nextreef.com/
 
Thank you for posting updated pictures. It's always nice to see visual progress around all the written descriptions.

In regards to lighting, my eyes favor the color of the lighting above the large arch on the short side of the tank. Not sure which one that is, but it appears to be more balanced.
 
Mr. Wilson I thank you for your response. If it all possible when this idea becomes more of a reality could I PM you for design and system ideas? I would sure appreciate it.
 
Thank you for posting updated pictures. It's always nice to see visual progress around all the written descriptions.

In regards to lighting, my eyes favor the color of the lighting above the large arch on the short side of the tank. Not sure which one that is, but it appears to be more balanced.


Mr. Wilson, add one more in the LED column............

Thanks

Peter
 
Mr. Wilson I thank you for your response. If it all possible when this idea becomes more of a reality could I PM you for design and system ideas? I would sure appreciate it.

I answer a lot of pms and don't mind doing so but I prefer responding to threads so I can share the info with the community.

Too bad you aren't in Kona Ha, instead of ID, but I will be there fir MACNA next year.
 
I'll look into a crystal stripper pole, this may take some time :)

LOL, that would be a very interesting design touch indeed! Not sure how you'd sell that to Peter's wife though!


So as far as your lighting question goes, when looking only at the longest section of the tank ... the far right lighting is just a tad blue and the far left is too yellow, but I like the lighting that is between those two myself. I like the Radium 20K bulbs as they give my tank a crisp white look, but I know lighting is such a personal choice as well! Hope you can settle on something you like ;)
 
I am not sure if this was addressed earlier in the thread, but why did you go with the L-shape? I keep going back and forth between the rectangle or the L-shape.
 
I am not sure if this was addressed earlier in the thread, but why did you go with the L-shape? I keep going back and forth between the rectangle or the L-shape.

First, any decision to go with the L shape is going to add challenges with respect to flow. Its a geometric shape that is somewhat unforgiving that is confounding even to the "experts". Having said that, if the 'L' shape is your preference, then the effort to overcome the challenges really pays off with.....as I call it........."Managed Chaos" for flow. In other words there is a level of flow performance you need to achieve to meet or exceed proper dynamics for the health of the coral/fish that brings you greater control over the environment in the end...........but it ain't cheap so be forewarned.

My decision to go with the 'L' shape at the outset was an aesthetic architectural design commitment that would work with the three story circular staircase and open central foyer. In other words I wanted to be able to see the tank from most vantage points on all three floors and I achieved that. I also wanted the tank to be viewable from all sides and I have that too. Finally I wanted to make the "fish Room" as accessible and integrated to the Display Tank experience as possible and I believe I achieved that as well. Finally the aesthetic appeal had to work with the floor space available and I believe I have achieved that as well, but you folks would be a better judge than I as I am too close to the project to be totally objective.

Finally I believe that the rectangle or cylinder would be a more economical result but your design criteria should be an overall priority before economics dictates any compromise.

Peter
 
LOL, that would be a very interesting design touch indeed! Not sure how you'd sell that to Peter's wife though!


So as far as your lighting question goes, when looking only at the longest section of the tank ... the far right lighting is just a tad blue and the far left is too yellow, but I like the lighting that is between those two myself. I like the Radium 20K bulbs as they give my tank a crisp white look, but I know lighting is such a personal choice as well! Hope you can settle on something you like ;)

It`s ok Sara, Lisa told me that what happens in the fish room stays in the fish room..........:dance::dance::dance:

and as far as the lighting goes our informal unscientific survey is really aimed at this community of diverse experience to see if there is any preferred setting that enhances the experience. So its all good in the end really.

Peter
 
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