Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

[Scej12]

The idea behind light movers is to get another 25-50% more coverage. This extra coverage comes at a compromise of light in other areas, but not if you have already met/exceeded the photosynthetic compensation point for the day.

LED light in particular has a very limited coverage area. One option is to raise the light several feet over the tank for better coverage, once again, at the cost of intensity. This is not a viable option for taller tanks with limited overhead clearance, as in Peter's case. We found that angling LED light fixtures about 20˚ allowed the light to travel farther and spread out more while remaining close to the surface of the tank.

Our first idea was to angle two parallel lights inward from both sides of the tank. This would illuminate the centre rock structure without shadows while keeping light off of the viewing panels and from casting shadows on fish. A simple shaft could cover the same area with just one light. Perhaps a longer photoperiod would be required, but that would move our 8 hour photoperiod closer to the 14 hour day corals would get on a natural coral reef. Keep in mind, this is 14 hours of varying intensity, not an instant on without shadows.

Back to your question, the angle of the fixture would have to be customized to keep light off of the viewing panels. At present, very little light would get within 4" of the front and back panels due to the nature of LED light. There is room for probably a 15-20˚ degree swing in each direction. Metal halide lighting is a completely different story as reflectors spread the light considerable more. The light mover idea was more of an idea for making up for the shortcomings of LED than a method of reducing the number of fixtures needed or a way of providing more natural looking light.

A rotating light mover would only create a disco floor revolving spotlight. They are noisy, corrode easily, and use exponentially more electricity than the rotating horizontal rod idea (RPMs).

Running LED lighting on an angle also breaks up the unnatural shimmer they create and minimizes hot spots in the centre and shadowing between fixture overlap.

One nice thing about Peter's tank is it gets very little algae on the viewing panels. We have cut back to cleaning the walls once a week, and it is easily carried out with a magnet without a scraper. Less cleaning isn't just less work, it's also fewer scratches in the acrylic.

An alternative to the rotating shaft idea would be to mount each LED at opposing angles, but I don't know how you could shift them efficiently. There are some methods of moving things with heat expansion such as gas charged greenhouse vents. As the heat increase, the gas expands and open a roof vent; as it cools, it contracts the vent closed. You could always use a monster fan to blow your suspended lights around for a swinging mobile effect

Sweet discussion and very cool direction for LED lighting application. Have to admit that my first impression/question re your drawing was exactly the same as Dave.M's; but I'm sure you'll play around with it until it is perfectly refined... that's the fun part of invention. I certainly do see this motion aspect being a huge compliment in completing the LED evolution. Hope you get to try it out and report back the effects somewhere.

Regards,

SJ

 

[nineball]

Aptasia

Aptasia

I have been trying to benefit from all the information available on the RC Forum when I discovered what I think is Aptasia underneath a coral frag. I think you will agree it really, really looks like Aptasia. So I started looking for all the best practices when it comes to controlling Aptasia when it appears in the tank. I called in Mr. Wilson who gave an independent opinion that I had an initial case of Aptasia. I was all set to order some nudibranches and hypodermics with boiling water and certain fishes known to haunt Aptasia fields at night.

Here is a picture of the offending critter...........

Peter

 

[nineball]

Best practice !!!!!

Best practice !!!!!

And the Mr. Wilson and I jumped on the solution with what we believe will be without a doubt a revolutionary best practice when it comes to controlling Aptasia in marine aquariums.

Well folks, What do you think?

No more aptasia......stay tuned we will be monitoring this one for sure!!

Peter and Shawn

 

[nineball]

HEY, You talkin to me?

I couldn't resist that............


Peter

 

[mr.wilson]

I can't take credit for this ingenious idea. Peter is the one who came up with idea of sticking gum on it

 

[chingchai]

Peter. I recommend you to use this shrimp. Something like 20-30 of them.
Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemannicomplex)
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+2857+701&pcatid=701

 

[nineball]

I'm pleased to say that my tree branch thing is doing very very well, I think. Mr. Wilson an I see this as an encouraging sign of good water quality.......Thank you Chago.

Peter

 

[nineball]

Peter. I recommend you to use this shrimp. Something like 20-30 of them.
Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemannicomplex)
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+2857+701&pcatid=701

Actually ChingChai I was going to do that anyway but I thought that the EPO Epoxy was a final solution. The peppermint shrimp are being ordered by Mr. Wilson as we speak.

I do think the epoxy which is not toxic, will eventually colour up with coraline is a great solution that can be applied easily, quickly and at a comparatively low cost. We only used a small amount the size of a blueberry.

Peter

 

[fla2341]

I did the same thing with the putty and the dang thing popped up thru a connected hole. So I did it again and wouldn't you know it it did it again. I've now got two patches of putty and still the same dang aptasa pest. I hope this is the last connecting hole.

Thats a nice looking gorgonian. They grow like weeds down here in the Keys. A sure sign of it doing well is recovery of lost tissue on a stripped tip. Once doing well and healthy they are easy to propigate, just cut a small piece and attach it to a substraight. It will grow a new anchor footing and take off from there.
A while ago nahham was showing some shots from his location dives and I believe he showed a bright blue one. I couldn't tell you where in his thread but I'm sure someone can.

 

[fla2341]

found it post #1143

 

[kharmaguru]

The problem with any aiptasia treatment, is that when they feel threatened they eject planular larvae into the water column that turn into more aiptasia. I dare say plugging him with epo putty probably resulted in some larvae being ejected.

I have tried peppermint shrimp - they had no interest but this is the risk with any biological control. I tried aiptasia-X - I find it about 20% effective - most just come back like nothing happened. I have tried Kalk paste - I find this only works if you can plug the hole the aiptasia is in like you did with the epo putty, otherwise they're back in a week. You end up with planular babies either way. The last thing I tried was Sodium Hydroxide (lye), which I really thought would do it but 50% success (on first treatment) and new planular babies as we speak popping up here and there. Also I find it globs and may end up where you don't want it. Aiptasia suck and I am beginning to think a "best practice" may be to cook all live rock before it's used.

 

[golf nut]

The idea behind light movers is to get another 25-50% more coverage. This extra coverage comes at a compromise of light in other areas, but not if you have already met/exceeded the photosynthetic compensation point for the day.


An alternative to the rotating shaft idea would be to mount each LED at opposing angles, but I don't know how you could shift them efficiently.

Do you know what you would ideally like to accomplish in the way of coverage?

 

[swissgaurd]

agreed with chingchai the peppermint shrimps will help.
i myself use a kalkwasser paste.I heat up some water and mix it with approx.1 tsp of kalk
.its just a little thicker than milk.put it in a syringe and squirt it slowly in its mouth .you can see the aptaisia taking it in and wilting away.
pepermint shrimp like the young aptaisia mostly

vic

 

[Chago09]

I am glad the RODI unit is working great Peter.

Yes that is a great way to kill those SOB's. I have only had a few in my tank and I used joe's juice. It worked on all of them except one, who seemed so stubborn and kept coming back. Well luckily that piece of rock was near the top and I took matters into my own hands and literally removed the rock and removed the apitasia myself. Making sure I removed every speck of him off the rock:blown:. Knock on wood never had any for over 18months now.

P.S. I will be coming by tomorrow as my fish will be checking out from the Mars hotel. I'm sure they had a lovely stay. Its like the aquarium Hyatt.

 

[caliking]

Amazing!!

 

[mr.wilson]

Peter. I recommend you to use this shrimp. Something like 20-30 of them.
Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemannicomplex)
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+2857+701&pcatid=701

Peppermint shrimp work well, but best in a group as you suggest. In small numbers they are too shy, and hide.

I find copperband butterflies to be the most efficient. There is a blenny from the Atlantic Ocean that eats them, and of course burgia nudibranchs. We have a filefish that eats aiptasia but we haven't decided if it is reef safe (enough) yet. Most people have no problems with them and the few that experience coral picking may not be feeding enough??? We are still thinking about our Cuban and Spanish Hogfish as well. They are known to eat small shrimp, crabs and bully smaller fish, but it is a large tank. Having said that, it is a large tank to try to catch them out of You can break some rules with larger tanks, but in the end the fish call the shots. :hammer:

Believe it or not, putting rock in a microwave for 30 seconds works. It will kill anything that is full of water like sponges, tunicates etc., crabs, shrimp, but coraline algae is fine though.

I see no benefit in sterilizing live rock with chemicals or keeping it in the dark because aiptasia are more likely to enter the tank with coral than rock.

In my opinion chemical dosing to remove aiptasia doesn't work. You could mix some calcium hydroxide in with the Epo Putty to make it a poison as well as a physical barrier. This would solve the problem of trying to jab them with a needle. The physical barrier will deter reproduction which isn't as common as some report.

For those of you who don't have experience with aiptasia or majano anemones (I have been very lucky in this area) a common practice of removal is to poison them. The safest way to poison anything is to give it too much of a good thing, that way it is safe once diluted in the tank. You can use alkaline (high PH) or acid (low PH) chemicals that will quickly neutralize once it drifts away from the anemone such as salt, calcium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, calcium chloride, acid (muriatic, vinegar etc.). You can also use oxidizing agents like iodine, peroxide, and potassium permanganate. In the old days some people roughed up a copper wire with sandpaper and jabbed the anemones in the hopes of dislodging copper fillings in them. Squirting a small amount of copper sulphate would have been more effective but why use a true poison when there are lots of reef safe things you can overdose them with

As fla2341 suggested, the pest anemone may turn up in a different hole in the rock. Live rock has far more passage ways than we give it credit for. Continuing to plug holes as they arise will eventually solve the problem and adding chemicals to the Epo Putty will help.

What I like about the putty solution is it quick, easy and cheap. A roving aiptasia eater is a better solution for a tank that is plagued with a big outbreak.

 

[Prairie]

I injected a lone aiptasia with lemon juice on Sunday. Has anyone tried that? I haven't seen it since (crossing my fingers!) but the zoos beside it came out.

 

[mr.wilson]

Do you know what you would ideally like to accomplish in the way of coverage?

I'll make a drawing of what I would like the light to do and post it. The idea is to accomplish the movement with the fewest moving parts, reliability, consistency, quiet operation, minimize shadows, keep light off of the viewing panels, and create something that could work for just about any manufacturers light. Did I mention it has to cost less than the light

LED lighting has opened the door for light moving technology. In the past with T5 and MHL lighting, there was no net gain with light movers. The coverage and shimmer shortcomings of LED can be compensated for with a light moving system. In my opinion, the main goal is to be able to angle the light over a 8-10 hour period. This is what occurs on a natural reef. Over 14 hours, the sun hits every polyp of a coral on a reef. The polyps are shadowed, but at different times of the day depending on the angle of the sun. Artificial lighting systems offer a static midday light exclusively.

The shape in which corals grow is governed largely by flow, as this is a primary feeding response. Photosynthetic energy from symbiotic zooxanthellae is the other primary source of food. Just like a tree on land, a coral on a reef will grow according to available light. The branches that receive light will excel, while shaded branches will not.

At this point in time, we do not have the technology to track a single light source over an reef tank over a 14 hour period to mimic the sun. What we can do, is use a series of lights that shift the angle of light over a shorter photoperiod (8-10hrs); remember, tropical reefs may get 14 hours of sun, but that light is moving and spread over different polyps throughout the day.

The idea that we can replicate the suns energy by merely offering high noon lighting all day long is a little over-optimistic. Coral polyps are constantly shadowed by waves/light shimmer and variation of light intensity. The spectrum of the light only changes as it meets the horizon where it is not directly illuminating corals. Artificial lighting technologies like LED that shift the spectrum as they dim are counter productive. Light testing is carried out at full power, but these PUR values shift with the dimming features of many LED fixtures.

I like the idea of a single revolving shaft to drive a series of light. It's like those old mills that use a 100' shaft to run hundreds of machines. When they want to add another machine, they simply add another belt to the production line shaft. Having said this, independent turning of each fixture will allow you to angle them from side to side, while a single rod/shaft can only angle the lights from front to back. The corals don't know which way is East & West, but angling the lights from side to side will not cast light on the front/back viewing panels, while angling them from front to back may if you go too far. The solution to this is to angle each light puck/array and have them shift on louvers over the photoperiod. A single rod would change the angle of each array simultaneously with one movement, with minimal energy consumed and no noise. Something like this should have a default position should it ever jam up, or at least be moveable manually.

A marriage of light angling and an offset on/off sequence will create a realistic sunrise sunset (dawn/dusk) effect, while eliminating our current noon sun effect. Tropical reefs have the same solar azimuth (angle of the sun) year round, so they don't get the same change in trajectory that we get in our Northern clime, as a result, we don't need to change the angle of our light from North to South.

Of course there are other factors that come into play. Water refracts light, as does a bright white substrate. You could counter my variable angle argument with the fact that the suns angle doesn't change from North to South and corals don't grow oblong as a result. You could also argue that the early morning and late afternoon sun on natural reefs is a relatively brief period with little effect on photosynthesis. Light movers still compensate for poor coverage of LED lighting and offer a dawn/dusk effect without altering the light spectrum, as experienced with many LED dimmers.

I hope that keeps you up late tonight Golf Nut. You should have the answer around the bottom of the label

 

[Elliott]

Mr Wilson: while we are on the subject of lighting, what is your opinion of using natural light (skylight or tubes) on a reef aquarium? I realize Peter's tank is in the basement, making this option difficult, but many of us are contemplating using natural light. I'm considering a large skylight with supplemental LED's. The negatives I've seen are yellowish appearance, too much intensity during the summer months and not enough during the winter, however these can probably be dealt with with supplemental lighting and shade cloth, possibly even automated with the new continuous Apogee 200 model. In the end it's hard to beat nature, especially light, I would think the positives would far outweigh the negatives.

 

[dave.m]

Good question, Elliot. I, too, have been interested in some of the outstanding Australian tanks on this forum that use Solatubes as part of their lighting solution. I don't know if we get enough light at this latitude to make them effective, though. Does anyone know of someone who has tried these here in Southern Ontario?

Dave.M