Coralife BioCube 29g Build
- Thread starter timfederwitz
- Start date
timfederwitz
New member
I did NOT realize that! Thanks.
homer1475
New member
+1
I don't cycle my QT, just change 3 gallons every other day while I'm dosing meds(10G QT). I have never had an issue with QT(except when my wife washed out the tank with dawn).
I do however use a media bag full of seachem matrix media that I keep in the bottom of the media rack from my DT, since its empty now that I have a reactor. I put it in my HOB filter after I stop dosing meds. With this method I have a fully cycled QT, and I can relax and go back to weekly WC's.
timfederwitz
New member
What should I get for the QT tank then? Since this is going in my sons room, I would like it to look halfway decent. Here's a list of things I am thinking to get for it... please tell me what is needed, not necessary but wouldn't be bad, and what I *shouldn't* get.
- 10g tank
- hood w/light
- heater
- HOB filter (like a BioWheel)
- Something for the fish to hide
If I use a filter, I assume I am safe to run active carbon unless dosing?
Since my DT is empty other than water, there is nothing I can use to seed a bag of Sachem Matrix (unless I can use my freshwater tank for that?).
Also, as far as dosing is concerned, I assume I only do that if the fish shows some sign of infection?
timfederwitz
New member
For the QT tank, I was thinking of something like this, which may be very similar to what we got my son a long time ago (so not LED).
homer1475
New member
Mine is in my living room, so it has to be somewhat decent also. I basically have that same setup with the exception of a bubble wand(need the extra oxygenation when dosing PP), and use small pieces of PVC pipe for hiding places. My filter is just an aquaclear that I dump the matrix in and carbon filter frame most HOB's use, although quite a few use the biowheel too.
timfederwitz
New member
Thanks homer... I may just go pick that up tonight then. Need to take a second look at my son's old tank though, to see if it's salvageable.
soulpatch
New member
Let me know when you go up to Mike's and if I am around I will meet you up there. Also if you want that flame or other fish call him up tip hold things or order what you want. Tell him I sent you (Andy with the nano and tons of acans) he will know me amd might hook you up considering how much I have spent there... Lol
timfederwitz
New member
I was actually thinking of going tomorrow to look at the flame and talk to Mike. I could be there around 3pm, but would have to head back home by 5pm.
Otherwise, I have more availability on Friday from 10am until about 5pm again. This weekend is fairly booked for me.
timfederwitz
New member
I guess I'll just have to mention you to Mike then! LOL
Next week is crazy for me, and I am in California on Thursday and Friday. Not sure about the weekend just yet.
timfederwitz
New member
Coralife BioCube 29g Build
Still in a bit of a holding pattern for now, but I did a little mod on the BioCube after I did a big cleaning of my freshwater tank.
Thanks to ReefWreak for sharing pics and a description of how he had the Aquaticlife 115 skimmer in his BioCube 29g with the hood still on.
Essentially, use the skimmer completely stock, with the hanger inserted so it hangs onto the side of the tank while being inside the first chamber.
In order to do this, you need to create a small cutout in the hood where the hanger sticks out the side. This allows the hood to close completely and maintains the stock look nicely.
Since my tank is in a corner, and the right side is against a wall, you really can't even see the hanger sticking out"¦ and it's fairly inconspicuous even if it was out in open.
Some pics:
Lid closed external
Inside with hood open
With hood closed and just the back compartment lid opened
It fits inside the hood perfectly so the cup is not hitting the hood. Of course, I am still not sure if I have the skimmer at the right height yet.
The skimmer still needs to break in (I believe) and I still don't have anything in the tank except water, but there are tons of micro bubbles in the tank at the moment.
I still need to get a QT tank setup, but before that I need to order a RO/DI. I will be getting those, and the TBS "The Package" at the end of the month. Then I should have more to share.
I need to spend some time in my stand cleaning up the wiring and organizing things. Need to put together a plan. Maybe I'll draw some stuff out for it. I need to still easily pull equipment for cleaning, but I want the wires neat and tidy and out of the way.
If anyone wants to share some ideas, I'm all eyes. ;-)
Still in a bit of a holding pattern for now, but I did a little mod on the BioCube after I did a big cleaning of my freshwater tank.
Thanks to ReefWreak for sharing pics and a description of how he had the Aquaticlife 115 skimmer in his BioCube 29g with the hood still on.
Essentially, use the skimmer completely stock, with the hanger inserted so it hangs onto the side of the tank while being inside the first chamber.
In order to do this, you need to create a small cutout in the hood where the hanger sticks out the side. This allows the hood to close completely and maintains the stock look nicely.
Since my tank is in a corner, and the right side is against a wall, you really can't even see the hanger sticking out"¦ and it's fairly inconspicuous even if it was out in open.
Some pics:
Lid closed external
Inside with hood open
With hood closed and just the back compartment lid opened
It fits inside the hood perfectly so the cup is not hitting the hood. Of course, I am still not sure if I have the skimmer at the right height yet.
The skimmer still needs to break in (I believe) and I still don't have anything in the tank except water, but there are tons of micro bubbles in the tank at the moment.
I still need to get a QT tank setup, but before that I need to order a RO/DI. I will be getting those, and the TBS "The Package" at the end of the month. Then I should have more to share.
I need to spend some time in my stand cleaning up the wiring and organizing things. Need to put together a plan. Maybe I'll draw some stuff out for it. I need to still easily pull equipment for cleaning, but I want the wires neat and tidy and out of the way.
If anyone wants to share some ideas, I'm all eyes. ;-)
Last edited:
timfederwitz
New member
Forgot to mention that I changed how things are hooked up to my Apex Jr outlets since I had to unplug and pull all of the wires anyway.
I forget who mentioned it (maybe ReefWreak or homer), but I ordered a 3 outlet tap that is vertical. This allowed me to run my return pump, rw4 circulation pump and the skimmer off one outlet so they all turn off during feeding. I also moved my blue LED strip for moonlights onto a static power strip so they are always on (they were only off for 4 hours in the middle of the night as it was with the schedule I created, so figured I'd just run them 24/7), and this freed up another Apex Jr outlet for my heater so it only gets power if the temp drops to what I set my heater at and shuts down after it goes a degree above (so the heater won't boil the water if the thermostat craps out and it stays on).
I forget who mentioned it (maybe ReefWreak or homer), but I ordered a 3 outlet tap that is vertical. This allowed me to run my return pump, rw4 circulation pump and the skimmer off one outlet so they all turn off during feeding. I also moved my blue LED strip for moonlights onto a static power strip so they are always on (they were only off for 4 hours in the middle of the night as it was with the schedule I created, so figured I'd just run them 24/7), and this freed up another Apex Jr outlet for my heater so it only gets power if the temp drops to what I set my heater at and shuts down after it goes a degree above (so the heater won't boil the water if the thermostat craps out and it stays on).
Lots of zipties and 1/2" wood screws (I think that's the length, I can double check if you're interested) to secure all of the drivers/ballasts/switches/controller hookups, etc to the sides of the cabinet (or the top, that's what I did with my LED drivers).
Glad I've been a big help
There's always more to be done though. Now I'm trying to wrap my head around dosing the tank with fluke tab to get rid of green star polyp without killing my shrimp... We'll see!
Glad I've been a big help
There's always more to be done though. Now I'm trying to wrap my head around dosing the tank with fluke tab to get rid of green star polyp without killing my shrimp... We'll see!
timfederwitz
New member
Lots of zipties and 1/2" wood screws (I think that's the length, I can double check if you're interested) to secure all of the drivers/ballasts/switches/controller hookups, etc to the sides of the cabinet (or the top, that's what I did with my LED drivers).
Glad I've been a big help
There's always more to be done though. Now I'm trying to wrap my head around dosing the tank with fluke tab to get rid of green star polyp without killing my shrimp... We'll see!
Thanks for this too!
Good luck with the dosing.
soulpatch
New member
I need to cut my GSP back this week before he leaps to another rock and I am screwed. HA HA.
I would also suggest plastic wire conduit to keep things tidy. It simply wraps around your wires but holds everything in place and is easier to secure for a cleaner look.
The skimmer will need some bioload to really break in so you might not see anything getting better with it till you add rock and start feeding and such. It basically pulls out organics (poop) from the water so you need something in there for it to work.
Another thing, I actually like to have my powerhead on when feeding. It spreads the food around the tank for the corals. I manually put it into feed mode (hold center button) when I want to spot feed corals but otherwise it stays on.
I would also suggest plastic wire conduit to keep things tidy. It simply wraps around your wires but holds everything in place and is easier to secure for a cleaner look.
The skimmer will need some bioload to really break in so you might not see anything getting better with it till you add rock and start feeding and such. It basically pulls out organics (poop) from the water so you need something in there for it to work.
Another thing, I actually like to have my powerhead on when feeding. It spreads the food around the tank for the corals. I manually put it into feed mode (hold center button) when I want to spot feed corals but otherwise it stays on.
timfederwitz
New member
Quick update: My life got pretty busy with travel for work and then back to school stuff for the 5 kids. However, I plan to order my TBS package to arrive on Tuesday next week. Can't wait for that!!
I also ordered a few things:
A fan strip with 5 fans to help cool my water down. It's inexpensive and should fit where the back panel is to blow down on the water when temps get too high. I'll wire it through my Apex so it only comes on when needed. With the skimmer running, my temps were climbing much more drastically than when it hasn't been running, and that was the only change I made (house temp stayed the same at 72). Since I turned it off, my temps are back to a normal 3-4 degree swing.
http://www.amazon.com/Sanatop-Aquar...8&qid=1441160098&sr=8-1&keywords=Aquarium+fan
The BRS 6 Stage Universal Water Saver Plus RO/DI - This may be overkill for now, but I started looking at the upgrades to the lower models and they would end up being more in the end"¦ plus they throw in some extras on this model, and only this model, as well. I needed to get this before my rock and sand shows up.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-6-stage-universal-water-saver-plus-ro-di-system-150gpd.html
Two 20 gallon Brute trash cans - I bought an off brand 30 gallon trash can from Lowes and am worried about its quality, so figured better safe than sorry. Also, having two means I can have one as RO/DI and the other as saltwater.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KDC1WC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Some sleeve length gloves for working with the rock and other future maintenance- thanks to Soulpatch for sharing this with me!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004US9VKS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I still need to get a QT tank that I will keep in my sons room for any fish, etc that I get. I'm still thinking of going with a 20g for that.
I also want to get an Apex Power Bar to add additional controlled outlets ASAP. For now, I think I need to move my heater to a non controlled outlet, or all the pumps/skimmer, so I can plug in the cooling fan to keep the tank temp from swinging too much.
I also want to get the Tunze Nano Osmolator and a small tank or container for auto top-off. Until then I will simply need to manually top off with RO.
Finally, I stopped in at Aquarium Specialties & Research (LFS) and met Mike Soulpatch! Great guy, just like you said. I did mention you and he knew who I was talking about. He is going to put two clowns in a tank for me to make sure I can get a mated pair. Sort of trial and error, unless the first two hit it off. I told him I didn't want to chance one of them being upside down due to fighting, but I also want two.
I can't freakin wait to kick this thing off!
Oh yeah"¦ also going to MACNA in DC with Soulpatch. That should be very cool.
I also ordered a few things:
A fan strip with 5 fans to help cool my water down. It's inexpensive and should fit where the back panel is to blow down on the water when temps get too high. I'll wire it through my Apex so it only comes on when needed. With the skimmer running, my temps were climbing much more drastically than when it hasn't been running, and that was the only change I made (house temp stayed the same at 72). Since I turned it off, my temps are back to a normal 3-4 degree swing.
http://www.amazon.com/Sanatop-Aquar...8&qid=1441160098&sr=8-1&keywords=Aquarium+fan
The BRS 6 Stage Universal Water Saver Plus RO/DI - This may be overkill for now, but I started looking at the upgrades to the lower models and they would end up being more in the end"¦ plus they throw in some extras on this model, and only this model, as well. I needed to get this before my rock and sand shows up.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-6-stage-universal-water-saver-plus-ro-di-system-150gpd.html
Two 20 gallon Brute trash cans - I bought an off brand 30 gallon trash can from Lowes and am worried about its quality, so figured better safe than sorry. Also, having two means I can have one as RO/DI and the other as saltwater.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KDC1WC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Some sleeve length gloves for working with the rock and other future maintenance- thanks to Soulpatch for sharing this with me!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004US9VKS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I still need to get a QT tank that I will keep in my sons room for any fish, etc that I get. I'm still thinking of going with a 20g for that.
I also want to get an Apex Power Bar to add additional controlled outlets ASAP. For now, I think I need to move my heater to a non controlled outlet, or all the pumps/skimmer, so I can plug in the cooling fan to keep the tank temp from swinging too much.
I also want to get the Tunze Nano Osmolator and a small tank or container for auto top-off. Until then I will simply need to manually top off with RO.
Finally, I stopped in at Aquarium Specialties & Research (LFS) and met Mike Soulpatch! Great guy, just like you said. I did mention you and he knew who I was talking about. He is going to put two clowns in a tank for me to make sure I can get a mated pair. Sort of trial and error, unless the first two hit it off. I told him I didn't want to chance one of them being upside down due to fighting, but I also want two.
I can't freakin wait to kick this thing off!
Oh yeah"¦ also going to MACNA in DC with Soulpatch. That should be very cool.
soulpatch
New member
Just grab a cheap 10 gal setup unless you are set on a 20 gallon. Makes catching the fish easier when moving to the display tank. If you want to clean it out I have a spare tank. I think I have a spare HOB filter for it as well but you would need to get a heater and small light as I don't think I have those though I can check.
For the temp swings that is a bit odd. Which heater do you have and which chamber is it in relation to your temp probe? There might also be a local rapidled setup for sale soon if I decide to buy a third kessil for my biocube. I like the looks of it on there though I bought ti for the upgrade tank so woudl need to buy third if I wanted to leave it. Nonetheless I can look at the setup next Tuesday when I come spy that rock as well. I will bring my gloves and try to remember the tank.
For the ato I simply use a small container I got at the container store in KOP. Does the job and I like that it has a handle and a lid. You will have some time with QT and such so manually topping off shouldn't be a huge issue.
Be careful with ASR especially if you friend him on facebook. Your money will disappear quickly buying his corals. Dont make the mistake I made and just start snagging things. Plan what you want to get and how in depth you want to take the biocube. MACNA should be awesome for this as you can see things that catch your eye and we can discuss what works or what is needed for particular corals. Well as best as I can anyway as I too am learning about many of the SPS and such still.
For your mixing bucket grab a heater and a small powerhead. I have a maxijet 1200 in mine to keep the water agitated when I make salt and let it mix for me. I also recomend a siphon starting hose unless you like a mouth of saltwater... Not sure how you plan on setting your mixing station up but if not gravity fed you might want another pump in the RODI bucket to send water to the mixing bucket. I would also HIGHLY reccomend that you get a gallon jug and put marks in the can for where each gallon hits so you can more easily make salt moving forward.
Finally not needed now but get yourself some fragging tools, LONG hemostats, and LONG tweezers. I have a 18" tweezer and will be on lookout at MACNA for 24" hemostats and tweezers. Makes life easier and there are times I am dressed for work and see something that needs moved and the long tools are perfect for that moment.
Sure there is more and we can discuss on Sunday or Tuesday night.
For the temp swings that is a bit odd. Which heater do you have and which chamber is it in relation to your temp probe? There might also be a local rapidled setup for sale soon if I decide to buy a third kessil for my biocube. I like the looks of it on there though I bought ti for the upgrade tank so woudl need to buy third if I wanted to leave it. Nonetheless I can look at the setup next Tuesday when I come spy that rock as well. I will bring my gloves and try to remember the tank.
For the ato I simply use a small container I got at the container store in KOP. Does the job and I like that it has a handle and a lid. You will have some time with QT and such so manually topping off shouldn't be a huge issue.
Be careful with ASR especially if you friend him on facebook. Your money will disappear quickly buying his corals. Dont make the mistake I made and just start snagging things. Plan what you want to get and how in depth you want to take the biocube. MACNA should be awesome for this as you can see things that catch your eye and we can discuss what works or what is needed for particular corals. Well as best as I can anyway as I too am learning about many of the SPS and such still.
For your mixing bucket grab a heater and a small powerhead. I have a maxijet 1200 in mine to keep the water agitated when I make salt and let it mix for me. I also recomend a siphon starting hose unless you like a mouth of saltwater... Not sure how you plan on setting your mixing station up but if not gravity fed you might want another pump in the RODI bucket to send water to the mixing bucket. I would also HIGHLY reccomend that you get a gallon jug and put marks in the can for where each gallon hits so you can more easily make salt moving forward.
Finally not needed now but get yourself some fragging tools, LONG hemostats, and LONG tweezers. I have a 18" tweezer and will be on lookout at MACNA for 24" hemostats and tweezers. Makes life easier and there are times I am dressed for work and see something that needs moved and the long tools are perfect for that moment.
Sure there is more and we can discuss on Sunday or Tuesday night.
timfederwitz
New member
Great info Soulpatch. Yes, still more to get. 
timfederwitz
New member
Coralife BioCube 29g Build
Forgot to answer this. My heater is the Cobalt Neotherm 100W. I set the temp at 76 degrees. This is currently on an Apex controlled outlet that only gets power to it if the temp drops below 77 degrees and doesn't get power at all if 78 or over. So it's not like the heater is already going rogue on me.
The temp probe IS in the same chamber, which is in chamber two. I do not have a probe clamp, and at least two days early-on the probe wound up halfway out of the water and was reading a much lower temp before I caught it, but I have since placed the probe very deep in the chamber and any time I check it now, it is staying put. I do need to get some form of clamp though.
When I was watching my temp swing before the skimmer was installed and turned on, it would increase to maybe 79 degrees at its peak, and then as the lights turned off it would bottom out around 77. If I opened the back and front smaller lids it would drop all the way down to 76 and hang there overnight until the lights came on again, but still never go above 79.0 if it even got there (with the lids open I don't think it even hit 78). However, once I installed and turned on the skimmer, the temp rose considerably and wouldn't drop as far as it would previously, but each day would climb higher. This lead to the tank hitting 82+ and the lights actually turning off via the Apex.
When it did that, I unplugged the skimmer and opened the lids and the temp dropped fairly rapidly back in line. I have left it unplugged since and again the temp is never getting above 79.
While not as scientific as I would like the testing to be (I have been uber busy and since there is nothing in the tank am not as concerned yet), it seems fairly conclusive. Because the temps seemed to be very stable with the lids open, I decided to look for a way to add cooling fans and came across the model I posted a link for. I think they arrive today and I'm interested in how they work out, but my idea is to remove the back lid completely and place the fan strip to the left side which leaves the skimmer cup exposed. The 6 fan strip seemed to be almost the perfect length to take up almost all of the space the original lid used, but since I may need to raise the skimmer higher, I wanted to leave that clear. Besides, the skimmer cup pretty much takes up all the surface area of chamber one, so a fan over it wouldn't provide much benefit anyway.
I'll post pics of the setup once I get it configured. Like the original lid on the hood, the fan strip is designed to open up or position flat over the tank like a regular lid (90° movement). I'm going to have to cut the hood because the brackets only fit 0.5" width, and the lip on the back at the top is about 1" wide. So I'll take the dremel to the lid once more.
Because of what I already have seen with the temps and the back lid being open, I don't expect this fan strip to be on too much.
Forgot to answer this. My heater is the Cobalt Neotherm 100W. I set the temp at 76 degrees. This is currently on an Apex controlled outlet that only gets power to it if the temp drops below 77 degrees and doesn't get power at all if 78 or over. So it's not like the heater is already going rogue on me.
The temp probe IS in the same chamber, which is in chamber two. I do not have a probe clamp, and at least two days early-on the probe wound up halfway out of the water and was reading a much lower temp before I caught it, but I have since placed the probe very deep in the chamber and any time I check it now, it is staying put. I do need to get some form of clamp though.
When I was watching my temp swing before the skimmer was installed and turned on, it would increase to maybe 79 degrees at its peak, and then as the lights turned off it would bottom out around 77. If I opened the back and front smaller lids it would drop all the way down to 76 and hang there overnight until the lights came on again, but still never go above 79.0 if it even got there (with the lids open I don't think it even hit 78). However, once I installed and turned on the skimmer, the temp rose considerably and wouldn't drop as far as it would previously, but each day would climb higher. This lead to the tank hitting 82+ and the lights actually turning off via the Apex.
When it did that, I unplugged the skimmer and opened the lids and the temp dropped fairly rapidly back in line. I have left it unplugged since and again the temp is never getting above 79.
While not as scientific as I would like the testing to be (I have been uber busy and since there is nothing in the tank am not as concerned yet), it seems fairly conclusive. Because the temps seemed to be very stable with the lids open, I decided to look for a way to add cooling fans and came across the model I posted a link for. I think they arrive today and I'm interested in how they work out, but my idea is to remove the back lid completely and place the fan strip to the left side which leaves the skimmer cup exposed. The 6 fan strip seemed to be almost the perfect length to take up almost all of the space the original lid used, but since I may need to raise the skimmer higher, I wanted to leave that clear. Besides, the skimmer cup pretty much takes up all the surface area of chamber one, so a fan over it wouldn't provide much benefit anyway.
I'll post pics of the setup once I get it configured. Like the original lid on the hood, the fan strip is designed to open up or position flat over the tank like a regular lid (90° movement). I'm going to have to cut the hood because the brackets only fit 0.5" width, and the lip on the back at the top is about 1" wide. So I'll take the dremel to the lid once more.
Because of what I already have seen with the temps and the back lid being open, I don't expect this fan strip to be on too much.
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