CPR overflow failsafe

[nfored]

I am bidding on a CPR overflow despite the fact I promised myself I would never by one of these poj I placed a bid on one.

So I was thinking of doing two things to make it safer.

1st on the return pump which is designed to be inline or submersed screw on a venture which I already have working on the return pump. so in my mind if the return pump is working the overflow should be working, provided I make sure the tube stays clean.

2nd Second would be us an electronic float switch inside the sump, i figured if I marked the water level that its at during normal operation once could logically say if its 0.5" lower it shuts off the pump. I mean this would not stop a flood but would make it more like a spill than a flood. Any other thoughts on making these safe.

 

[afamousjohnson]

An aqua lifter pump. I never had any problems with mine when I had it. For months I had it hooked to a ph until I stumbled acrossed the aqualifter and instead of manually sucking air out he pump does it.

 

[OneReef]

Aqualifter pump with airline shoved into U tube to suck air out in case it fails.

 

[sirreal63]

It is a flawed design, there is only way to make it truly failsafe.

It will work with something to keep it clear from air, but eventually that will fail. It is much better to use a design that doesn't require something to keep it primed. A U-Tube design is still the best solution.

 

[TimeConsumer]

Go Lifereef. It's worth the extra cash. Then rig up a float switch relay system to add some redundancy.

 

[j tavares]

In time all things fail ,would not trust it!

 

[joelespinoza]

What size is the tank?

If your glass is around 1/4'-3/8" or more just drill it. Thick glass is more forgiving than thin glass and is fairly easy even for novices as long as you have a steady hand and take your time.

I would not drill thin glass while the tank is setup (10-20 gallon tanks) but by the time you get up to the 40-50 gallon range the glass is usually thick enough, that its not a problem.

 

[joelespinoza]

Double post, sorry.

 

[Donkeykong]

I would not add a venture to the return pump, this will add micro bubble to the display as it sucks out the air from the overflow. if you are going to run on hob overflow stick with the aqualifter. The float switch is a good idea. I have a drilled tank but I have a float switch tied to the return pump. This is just incase the drain gets clogged or if the ATO fails and the water in the return gets to low. I ran a cpr overflow for 4 years and the only time I had a close call was when I got lazy and skipped regular maintenance. These thinks can and will work great , but you have to do regular checks and cleanings to prevent any problems.

 

[nfored]

Tank says all sides tempered or I would have had it drilled. As far as the micro bubbles would it not only suck air until all the air is removed from the overflow? I can use a venturi on a power head in the sump. I just thought venturi was safer then aqua lifter I thought aqua lifters where prone to fail.

 

[wildman926]

It is a flawed design, there is only way to make it truly failsafe.

It will work with something to keep it clear from air, but eventually that will fail. It is much better to use a design that doesn't require something to keep it primed. A U-Tube design is still the best solution.

X2.

Use a pump stopper kit from Aquahub.com. Cheap insurance. I used them on both of my tanks, albeit modiefied for my use.

You can get it HERE

 

[allsps40]

It is a flawed design, there is only way to make it truly failsafe.

It will work with something to keep it clear from air, but eventually that will fail. It is much better to use a design that doesn't require something to keep it primed. A U-Tube design is still the best solution.

LOL 100% true. All HOB overflows can and will fail. I ran a U-tube overflow for years and every once in awhile I would find a large air bubble in the tube and the flow would be next to nothing and near overfilling the tank.