Critical decisions: Important to understand what the Issue is:
1. Acclimation: is almost totally about salinity. Equalizing the temperature can be done with a 15 minute float of the still-sealed bag under most circumstances. That is less critical than a salinity match.
a. It is safer to jump DOWN in salinity than up.
b. It is not safe to raise salinity more than .002 at a go.
2. cycling: is all about ammonia. Which is what you DON'T want. Clean water is ALWAYS good. Everything you do, filtering, cycling, etc, is about the prevention of ammonia reaching your fish. If you are in a pinch and you are getting ammonia, clean water is the need. If you can provide a cycled [means it can cycle waste and ELIMINATE ammonia before it gets to the fish} qt, fine, excellent; but if you need to, just get whatever it is to clean water and keep that water pristine-clean by any means you can (water changes, filter changes) and AVOID a cycle in that tank. If that's not clear, ask me.
3. ph: is not useful in maintaining a salt water tank under ordinary circumstances. Track alkalinity instead, and keep it around 8.3.
4. When administering meds
a. never medicate your dt.
b. the dosage level is critical for the treatment to work: evaporation and adding fresh water both change the dosage. YOU NEED AN ATO in that operation for it to work well.
5. Not every fish can survive copper well. Check the species. Angels and lions both have problems. So do dragonets. Hypo is often a better choice with them. Do not dip a clown and put him into the tank with his nem: if you have blitzed his slime coat, the nem will kill him.
6. In acclimation: if there is ammonium from fish waste in the water, opening the bag gives you 30 minutes to have that fish safely in qt. Pre-set your qt salinity to that of the shipper. Phone them and ask. Why so? Ammonium (which is harmless) converts to ammonia when the ph shifts, and the ph shifts when you open the bag and the built-up co2 escapes. DO NOT OPEN A BAG until you are ready!
1. Acclimation: is almost totally about salinity. Equalizing the temperature can be done with a 15 minute float of the still-sealed bag under most circumstances. That is less critical than a salinity match.
a. It is safer to jump DOWN in salinity than up.
b. It is not safe to raise salinity more than .002 at a go.
2. cycling: is all about ammonia. Which is what you DON'T want. Clean water is ALWAYS good. Everything you do, filtering, cycling, etc, is about the prevention of ammonia reaching your fish. If you are in a pinch and you are getting ammonia, clean water is the need. If you can provide a cycled [means it can cycle waste and ELIMINATE ammonia before it gets to the fish} qt, fine, excellent; but if you need to, just get whatever it is to clean water and keep that water pristine-clean by any means you can (water changes, filter changes) and AVOID a cycle in that tank. If that's not clear, ask me.
3. ph: is not useful in maintaining a salt water tank under ordinary circumstances. Track alkalinity instead, and keep it around 8.3.
4. When administering meds
a. never medicate your dt.
b. the dosage level is critical for the treatment to work: evaporation and adding fresh water both change the dosage. YOU NEED AN ATO in that operation for it to work well.
5. Not every fish can survive copper well. Check the species. Angels and lions both have problems. So do dragonets. Hypo is often a better choice with them. Do not dip a clown and put him into the tank with his nem: if you have blitzed his slime coat, the nem will kill him.
6. In acclimation: if there is ammonium from fish waste in the water, opening the bag gives you 30 minutes to have that fish safely in qt. Pre-set your qt salinity to that of the shipper. Phone them and ask. Why so? Ammonium (which is harmless) converts to ammonia when the ph shifts, and the ph shifts when you open the bag and the built-up co2 escapes. DO NOT OPEN A BAG until you are ready!
