cupramine and salifert copper test problems

Zacktosterone

Active member
So I have a foxface, coral beauty, and sixline wrasse, in quarantine, waiting to enter my display. My questions are;

1 is it just me or is the concentration hard to read on the test kit?

2 what ending concentration to I gradually bring the cupramine to?

3 what is the recommended time that they sit it copper?

I want to make sure ich is iraticated before they enter my display. I'm almost positive the foxface has it
 
1 is it just me or is the concentration hard to read on the test kit?

It's not just you. Some say the Seachem test kit is easier to read. I've only used Salifert w/Cupramine. I find it works best if you view it outside under natural light.

2 what ending concentration to I gradually bring the cupramine to?

0.35 (minimum) - 0.5 (maximum) is the range. Practically speaking, I try to get it "close but not quite" 0.5.

3 what is the recommended time that they sit it copper?

30 consecutive days once you hit 0.35. Must not drop below 0.35 at any time during the 30 days (very important).
 
It is important to gradually move to the therapeutic level and then constantly test to insure that it stays there for 30 days.
 
How many days would you take to gradually bring it to that level

I personally raise it gradually over 5 days.

Trying to read the test kits is one of the major reasons why I hate using copper. I've switched to tank transfer for proactively treating against ich in QT. It's a little extra work, but it's pretty much foolproof and you're done in 12 days. :)
 
OK so I'm incrediblely impatient. I dont mind waiting the six weeks until they're ready, but there's 10 more fish I want to add in my setup. Is there a way to quarantine all 10 new fish so I can add them slowly every week instead of buying 3 and waiting 6 weeks to buy 3 more?

What's a more reliable method. Tank transfer or copper. I love the idea of just buying another tank and doing tank transfer until 12 days but that seems too easy
 
Tank transfer is more reliable as it exploits the predictable phase of the parasite's life cycle (i.e. the feeding trophont stage that lasts 3-7 days). The only caveats are that you have to have two sets of everything (tank, heater, aeration of some sort), you must sterilize all equipment between transfers and you must transfer every 72 hours. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Copper targets the free-swimming theront stage, which is highly variable; typical time frames are 2 weeks, but this can vary widely depending on temperature and species of fish. I like predictable better. :)

As far as being impatient, all I can say is, "nothing good happens fast in this hobby." :) I would never QT that many fish. I try to limit myself to 1-2 fish at a time. YMMV.
 
Tank transfer is more reliable as it exploits the predictable phase of the parasite's life cycle (i.e. the feeding trophont stage that lasts 3-7 days). The only caveats are that you have to have two sets of everything (tank, heater, aeration of some sort), you must sterilize all equipment between transfers and you must transfer every 72 hours. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Copper targets the free-swimming theront stage, which is highly variable; typical time frames are 2 weeks, but this can vary widely depending on temperature and species of fish. I like predictable better. :)

As far as being impatient, all I can say is, "nothing good happens fast in this hobby." :) I would never QT that many fish. I try to limit myself to 1-2 fish at a time. YMMV.

This. Emphasis added to what Chris said. However, isn't the original poster the fellow that does not believe in quarantine because his LFS does it for him?
 
This. Emphasis added to what Chris said. However, isn't the original poster the fellow that does not believe in quarantine because his LFS does it for him?

I actually do quarantine. But only observation not prophylactic. I was playing devils advocate because I wanted the thread to go somewhere. Turned out not the way I want but this is in the past.

But this is another thread. I understand things take time. And when I'm talking about ten fish I'm talking about buying multiple tanks. And I'm asking for a way to do it. Not a way to slam them all in one tank

Snorvich, tonight will be about 72 hours that they are in the tank. Should I do this tonight? Or as soon as possible, or should I do it tommorow morning? But that would be 84 hoirs
 
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Tank transfer is more reliable as it exploits the predictable phase of the parasite's life cycle (i.e. the feeding trophont stage that lasts 3-7 days). The only caveats are that you have to have two sets of everything (tank, heater, aeration of some sort), you must sterilize all equipment between transfers and you must transfer every 72 hours. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Copper targets the free-swimming theront stage, which is highly variable; typical time frames are 2 weeks, but this can vary widely depending on temperature and species of fish. I like predictable better. :)

As far as being impatient, all I can say is, "nothing good happens fast in this hobby." :) I would never QT that many fish. I try to limit myself to 1-2 fish at a time. YMMV.

How many tank transfers are done in 12 days?
 
Snorvich, tonight will be about 72 hours that they are in the tank. Should I do this tonight? Or as soon as possible, or should I do it tommorow morning? But that would be 84 hoirs

As I answered in the TT thread, the critical success factor is less than 72 hours.
 
OK so I'm incrediblely impatient. I dont mind waiting the six weeks until they're ready, but there's 10 more fish I want to add in my setup. Is there a way to quarantine all 10 new fish so I can add them slowly every week instead of buying 3 and waiting 6 weeks to buy 3 more?

What's a more reliable method. Tank transfer or copper. I love the idea of just buying another tank and doing tank transfer until 12 days but that seems too easy

I am patient but I aim to get all the fish intended for a setup and then QT all at once and put in DT all at once.

I generally QT all for 12 weeks or longer so that issue is not patience. Stocking all at once has the advantages of reducing territorial issues and also is more economical in prices and effort (actual work).

The newbie should NOT QT and stock many fish at once, however. The problem is not with allowing the tank to adjust (basically a misconception) but with the danger of lack of skill in disease control; the most probable danger is not ich but external bacterial infection. A QT tank with uncontrolled bacterial infection is a sorry sight.

There are a few very effective ways to make sure that there will be no ammonia in any tank irrespective of nominal age of the tank. The issue of nitrification is in the effective method of cycling to make relatively sure that there is no ammonia at all times.
 
So far I have done one tank transfer, I will be doing another on Friday. The fish already look lively and are eating.

Which is a good thing. Remember, however, that fish do not have to exhibit signs of a parasite in order to have it. The ich life cycle is why tank transfer works as it will remove the parasite from your fish. But, and this is critical, it only works with cryptocaryon irritans (ich).
 
Which is a good thing. Remember, however, that fish do not have to exhibit signs of a parasite in order to have it. The ich life cycle is why tank transfer works as it will remove the parasite from your fish. But, and this is critical, it only works with cryptocaryon irritans (ich).

Which is the point of redundancy of multiple tank transfer
 

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