Cupramine with helfrich's, questions

Squared

New member
Recently bought a helfrichi firefish and small green chromis which are now in a 12g nano cube for QT. After searching the topic of cupramine use, I have these questions

I think he may have one single spot of ich on his upper back, right before the dorsal fin. Yesterday I saw something on his left pectoral but it's gone now.

Both are eating and are out and about. Should I wait and see if the spot disappears or not (could be a scratch) before starting cupramine? Even if it isn't ich, I'm not sure I still want to do cupramine just in case.

Are helfrich's sensitive to copper?

If I did tank transfer, I don't have another spare heater or pump. Will a 15 min vinegar bath kill any hitchhiking ich?

Can I get an accurate reading from an ammonia badge with copper in the water?
 
Basically what I'm asking is:

Are helfrichi firefish in any way sensitive to cupramine?

Between the salifert/red sea and seachem test kit for copper, which do you use?

If I use the tank transfer method, can I use the same pump, heater, and PVC as long as I give it a soak in vinegar?
 
Basically what I'm asking is:

Are helfrichi firefish in any way sensitive to cupramine?

Between the salifert/red sea and seachem test kit for copper, which do you use?

If I use the tank transfer method, can I use the same pump, heater, and PVC as long as I give it a soak in vinegar?

IME, firefish do not seem particularly sensitive to copper in general. Have not treated a N. helfrichi, though.

I prefer Salifert over Seachem for testing copper. Have not tried Red Sea.

You cannot share a single set of equipment between tanks. In order for TTM to be effective, each tank and equipment set must be cleaned and thoroughly dried (i.e. for at least 24 hours) before transfer. If you share equipment, you risk reinfection. All you really need is two tanks, two heaters, a few airstones (to be discarded after each transfer) and a pump for the airstone. Cost outlay is minimal, and the result is 100% elimination of the parasite in only 12 days.

I'm not a big fan of copper treatments as they are hard on fish, require constant monitoring and target the more unpredictable and variable stage of the parasite's life cycle. Copper also requires a much more lengthy treatment period (4 weeks minimum) to ensure you've eradicated the parasite.
 
hmm, well I suppose that for the price of the cupramine and test kit, it's only a few dollars more for small air pump and heater.

if a single white speck does not disappear after week, when is it safe to say it isn't ich, but part of the fish's skin?
 
I would say if the white speck is still present after 10 days, you can safely assume it isn't ich. As a matter of fact, my firefish has a white dot on his caudal penduncle that has been there since I have had him (nearly a year). When I first got him, I was sure it was ich, but opted to wait before treating. Ich is not immediately life-threatening, so if detected early, you have plenty of time to treat before it reaches epidemic proportions.

Still, ich does not have to be visible to be present, so running the fish through TTM is good prophylaxis. I do it for all new acquisitions, as do many others on this board.
 
He developed another white spot on his pectoral fin, but was only there for less than a day, which does not sound like ich, I think.

Looks like I'll be going with TT, hopefully catching these little guys won't be too much of a hassle. Thanks for the replies.
 
He developed another white spot on his pectoral fin, but was only there for less than a day, which does not sound like ich, I think.

On the contrary, I would suspect ich if you see spots come and go. Your decision to do tank transfer is the right one. Firefish may be timid fish, but they handle TTM very well IME.
 
It's not necessary - ammonia doesn't build up significantly over three days. I usually dose Prime on the second and third days just to be sure.
 
ok. i have some zeolite chips i can use in the power filter if needed.

first transfer done, wasn't too much of a hassle and fish are eating but a little bit shyer.
photo_zpsd7ae5426.jpg

switching between an old NC12 and this 5 gal, cause that's what I have
 
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