Custom 210 gal. in-wall build with steel stand and DIY rock walls

I have a quick question about the back wall. I see that there is quite a gap behind the rock wall. What are you going to do when fish and snails get stuck back there? sorry if this was already answered or maybe I'm not thinking about it properly. =)


Hey Jay! Well... It depends on what area you are talking about. Directly in the middle (left to right) of the back of the tank is a cave with a removable top piece. This will allow me to get in there and clean up if needed. The gaps in the back corners are accessible from the top of the tank. At least enough to get grabbers or a net down there. There really isn't much of a gap anywhere else.

Does that explain a little? I'll try to take some pics specific to there areas and add them to the thread.
 
I too saw a few "holes" in the rock work that made me think " what if a fish get between the glass and rock work. However I think I will have all my question answered in time. I really want to see this tank wet, so get to plumbing!
 
Water is in!

Water is in!

Water is in! It looks like we may have a tank on our hands!

There are going to be more random pics than normal, but I'll be happy to answer questions that anyone might have.
Thanks to rdaly and sonicboom who came over and worked an all-nighter with me last Friday. We completed the plumbing going to the display tank and I'll be tying in the frag tank this weekend.
Below you will see the four pipes inside of the overflow. The two smallest pipes on the outside are 1" and are used as the drain pipes. I guess you can say I used a modified herbie"¦ or maybe it is just a herbie. The one on the left is about 6" higher than the one on the right. While I will be pulling a full siphon out of the one on the right, the one on the left will be a trickle. Not sure, but when I tune it up I'll let everyone know how it is working. The larger one on the right is 1.5" and that is my return. I have hooked up temporary pipes to make sure that everything working in regards to the return and drains, but I need to come up with a directional flow that won't back siphon. I think I may just add a few 45 degree pieces together and then angle it into the water, and add one or two holes into the pvc just above the water line (thanks rdaly). I'm totally open to hearing some ideas on that on. I really don't care about having the return split as after doing a lot of research on that it isn't really beneficial unless you are using that flow for your corals. I think I have a good amount of flow already so no biggie. The last pipe is 2" and it is the highest of the bunch. I'm using this as an emergency drain. It exits right above the refugium. If for some reason the water level would get as high as the emergency drain the water will drop down onto the water in the refugium making a lot of splashing noise and alerting whoever is in the house to shut the system off.

I'm running the system on a Jebao DC12000 and while I can only go off of what others say in regards to longevity of the pump this thing is silent. The skimmer that I am working with is a Bermuda 5c skimmer on a Mag 9.5 pump. It is an older style skimmer, but if you look at reviews the user can't say but good things about them. I'm also running an airline to it from the garage. This will help keep the ph balanced.


The skimmer is floating a little because I haven't ran any water through it yet. That will hopefully be this weekend. I was weary of writing the next thing on this thread because I'm sure there will be some diehard reefers that don't see eye to eye on this one. Absolutely none of the pipes on the setup have been glued. Instead, we used Teflon tape (the white tape used in threaded plumbing). Wrap it around the end of the pipe about 4 to 8 times depending on the spread you use. This was recommended to sonicboom by a plumber. Of course you wouldn't do this for plumbing something in your wall, but it is great for something that you may be taking apart or changing out often. Sonicboom did his plumbing the same way and he hasn't had a leak yet.
Here is sonicboom giving the A-OK.

This pipe coming from the ceiling is where the RODI water is coming from.


This is us checking the closed-loop system. It worked, but the Mag 9.5 was definitely not strong enough. I have a Jebao DC9000 on its way!
 
I had a blast and it was great to know we had already met at the previous reef club meeting.. Lol. The tank is stunning and that's some of the cleanest looking PVC I've seen in a long time..wink. yup Teflon tape works, remember trying to remove the one piece with pliers?!..

I think you should leave it half filled and leave the waterfall running like in the third picture...lol
 
Now, even though people have use the pond foam without issues of chemicals I wanted to let the rock walls sit in a pool of water to let the chemicals leach out of the foam, as well as the rocks since they were recycled from others’ tanks. The goal was to do 3 weeks and then drain it all, and then do another 3 weeks. I think I am going on 6 weeks, so I really need to drain it. And do it again before I am done with the build.


Want to say great Idea on the rock-wall. I am impressed at your handiness. If you are worried about chemicals, are you going to do the same method with soaking the tank in RI water to let the chemicals of the foam used to fill in the cracks on the rock-wall?

Also, are those corners going to cause a problem with nutrient build-up? Do you plan on adding flow to them? Sorry if you mentioned it in your thread already.


This is us checking the closed-loop system. It worked, but the Mag 9.5 was definitely not strong enough. I have a Jebao DC9000 on its way!

I love rimless tanks, but I'm curious. Why spend significantly more on a rimless aquarium if the tank was going to be an in-wall tank? A 210 tank with a plastic rim would have been a fraction of the cost. I know its aesthetically appealing but if it'd be hidden from view, why not?
 
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I added a rubber underlayment to the floor for a little grip and easy way to clean/hide spills.




We brought the stand in and soon after we brought in the tank. We used four guys to bring it in and get it up on the stand, but I am sure that we could have used less. I liked having the 6 guys though. The tank was set on a half inch piece of foam that laid on a half inch piece of plywood. We put the tank in long ways and then spun it around to fit the stand. My measurements were at least good enough that everything fit in the hole with a little bit of wiggle room.



I really love the red paint on the steel stand. Makes everything look real sharp. Same with the rubber floors, great idea and it also makes the room look cooler IMO
 
I love rimless tanks, but I'm curious. Why spend significantly more on a rimless aquarium if the tank was going to be an in-wall tank? A 210 tank with a plastic rim would have been a fraction of the cost. I know its aesthetically appealing but if it'd be hidden from view, why not?

That's a euro braced tank, not rimless.

To the OP...
Nice build. How many guys can you fit in the fish room! :lolspin:
 
Nice build. Keep us updated. I just got a quote from Exotic aquarimus. They gave me a great price on a custom tank. They are local to me so I save a ton on shipping. Anything you don't like about the way the tank was bult? What do you like? Thanks.
 
Nice build. Keep us updated. I just got a quote from Exotic aquarimus. They gave me a great price on a custom tank. They are local to me so I save a ton on shipping. Anything you don't like about the way the tank was bult? What do you like? Thanks.


So far I haven't noticed anything I don't like. The tank was built like a... Well... Tank. Thick glass, good seal, clean cuts, and smoked glass make it a great value. Oh! And the Eurobracing it more than what you would expect to need. No regrets here.

That's a euro braced tank, not rimless.



To the OP...

Nice build. How many guys can you fit in the fish room! :lolspin:


Ha! Once it is finished there will be enough room for myself, a stool, and a drink. I'll make sure the door locks from the inside lol...

I really love the red paint on the steel stand. Makes everything look real sharp. Same with the rubber floors, great idea and it also makes the room look cooler IMO


Thanks! That's what I was going for. People don't believe how thin the rubber is. They say it feels a lot thicker and spongy. Because it is thin I am a little worried that it could rip if something sharp was dragged on it though. It is thin enough that I don't trip over it when walking in and no threshold is needed.

Want to say great Idea on the rock-wall. I am impressed at your handiness. If you are worried about chemicals, are you going to do the same method with soaking the tank in RI water to let the chemicals of the foam used to fill in the cracks on the rock-wall?

Also, are those corners going to cause a problem with nutrient build-up? Do you plan on adding flow to them? Sorry if you mentioned it in your thread already.

Great questions cdodge. I'm not as worried about the chemicals since the amount of foam that I used to fill cracks was not even half of one wall panel. When I cooked the rock walls you could see the chemicals start to float on the surface of the water. If I see that again I will do a couple small water changes.


I love rimless tanks, but I'm curious. Why spend significantly more on a rimless aquarium if the tank was going to be an in-wall tank? A 210 tank with a plastic rim would have been a fraction of the cost. I know its aesthetically appealing but if it'd be hidden from view, why not?


As the other contributor said, the tank has eurobracing. It does still cost more than a plastic rimmed tank but the build is so much greater and much stronger. I was looking for a specific sized tank and wasn't finding a manufactured one. I was going to need a custom built tank but I was lucky that I got a great deal on this one. It popped up on RC and it was the exact dimensions I would need to fit into the wall with allowing supports.
 
Thanks! That's what I was going for. People don't believe how thin the rubber is. They say it feels a lot thicker and spongy. Because it is thin I am a little worried that it could rip if something sharp was dragged on it though. It is thin enough that I don't trip over it when walking in and no threshold is needed.




As the other contributor said, the tank has eurobracing. It does still cost more than a plastic rimmed tank but the build is so much greater and much stronger. I was looking for a specific sized tank and wasn't finding a manufactured one. I was going to need a custom built tank but I was lucky that I got a great deal on this one. It popped up on RC and it was the exact dimensions I would need to fit into the wall with allowing supports.

No problem! I really appreciate when reefers add those little extra details. Makes all the difference. I understand your decision on the eurobraced tank now. Makes sense haha. The tank is gorgeous, what a find! :) Good luck on the rest of your build, I'll be tagging along.
 
First, I have to apologize to all of those who have been following the thread for not keeping up with it. Things have been a little crazy over here, but I still have made some progress!

Where to start, where to start"¦ How about I tell everyone where I am currently. The tank has completed its cycle around February 6, 2015. I initiated the cycle with one large shrimp in some panty hose (not mine). It took about 2 weeks until it disintegrated. I mean"¦ absolutely nothing was left. Being the first time I have cycled a system it was very surprising to me. So I went through my high ammonia, to high nitrites, to high nitrates. Sitting on those for now.

I currently have two clowns in quarantine which will be moved to the frag tank and I am working on completing my water change station in the garage. Once it is completed I will do a 20% water change, and probably do another water change the following week to hopefully bring down the nitrates.
You all might remember that I was going to do a closed loop system through the rockwork that surrounds the overflow. Well, it was a better idea than anything. Being that I am not an engineer and new to the hobby I expected more out of the pump than it could handle. First it wasn't possible to suck the water up into the pump, and then the size of the pipes didn't make it feasible to push the water throughout the ½" pipes. On top of that"¦ I was using the Jebao DC9000 because I wanted the variable speeds, but I had to reduce the size of input and outputs to ½'" which was just too much. I also tried some other pumps on it and the closest to flow that I got was a little water pushing out of a few holes when using a MaxiJet 1200. Not what I wanted at all, so now I will be using it as a haven for pods. I'll buy a bunch and feed them down the pipe in top and they can come out all of the holes at their will lol"¦

This was my second go around after moving the pump from the floor to the shelving that I put up:



Speaking of the shelving"¦ I got that up not long ago too. It was the shelving that was already in the closet, but I flipped it upside down (had to rig a few things to make this work) so that nothing will slide off. I'm thinking about adding lining to it as well to make sure nothing slips through the cracks.




Here is a shot of my water line (from garage water change station) and hose line (ventilation for the skimmer) coming down from the ceiling through the shelves. The water line runs into a 35 gallon barrel (my ATO).







This picture is a little older. I've changed things so many times"¦ maybe that is why I haven't updated this thread. You will see in this pic the Jebao pump on the floor that I tried to use for the closed loop system. I'm currently using the JBJ ATO for top off. It took me a little to figure out how to set it up. I dealt with siphoning of the barrel when the pump shut off. To fix this I added a pipe standing in the sump higher than the barrel. The hose from the ATO goes into the top of the pipe a few inches, but still higher than the barrel. This stops the water from continuous siphoning.



You will also see that I changed the plumbing under the tank a little. I wanted the ability to slow down the turnover of the refugium section in the sump. To do this I brought the drain pipe from the frag tank to the trickle drain of the display tank. Along the way I "œT"d off to the refugium with a gate valve. I wanted to use gate valves throughout but I was sent the wrong size for the main drain, ended up just using a ball valve. Made it work.
The second drain (emergency drain) on the frag tank got shortened and empties out into the sump. Nothing will flow through this pipe unless the frag tank water level rises. I screwed the reactors in the footer that was added to the wall. I can just pull the whole thing off and open it up.

 
Next to the ATO is a new sink and cabinet that I added. It has room for two 5 gallon containers under it. I’m not sure if I want one to be fresh RO water to pump up and drain into the empty, or if I want to pump water out of the ATO barrel and them drain into both containers.



Currently I have two Ecotech Radion Gen1s on the tank, with a Gen2 on the frag tank. Even though the display tank’s lights have wide angle lenses, it looks as if I will need to add one more Gen1 in front of the overflow. It’s currently on the way!









The frag tank is a Deep Blue 30 gallon tank. I have the return split to go to the DT and the frag tank. I’m using a sea swirl on the frag tank, but due to some flow restrictions I added a small Koralia pump to the sea swirl with a larger Koralia to the side of the tank. Creates some pretty good flow. I may change this up a bit later.

Tonight I worked on the Apex a little. I was going to build a box for it, but I got a good deal on a shadow box at Michaels that opens from the front on hinges. I also bought some white board at Home Depot. I took out the glass on the front of the shadow box and replaced it with the white board. I added the modules to the board on the inside and drilled holes in the bottom of the shadow box. This allows me to hide all the wires but also have easy access to the modules to change things when needed. The controller was added to the front. I’m also planning to add a kill switch on the side that can shut down the entire system in case of an “emergency”.











Saturday, February 14th, I picked up some hermit crabs and snails to add to the tank; 10 blue leg, 2 tonga nassarius, and a few Trochus snails. They are working on my algae/diatoms, but I should probably be safe to add some more soon. I’ve heard people say that hermits will eat the snails for their shells. I’ve never seen it, but I have seen a hermit eat a dead snail out of its shell. I’ll be adding some extra shells of all sizes in the back of the tank. I’m actually thinking about adding some not so normal CUC like an abalone, Florida fighting conch, and a money cowrie. I also have a couple live rocks added with some purple coralline. I’ll have to get some shots of the tank tomorrow during the day.

Please let me know if you have questions about anything or would like for me to take some specific shots of anything. This has been a pretty big project for me so I would be happy to make it easier on anyone who is working on a similar project. I promise to try to stay on top of this thread a little more, and don’t be surprised if I just start loading up pictures lol…
 
One thing that I want to make note of for anyone using the old Gen1 Radions. They will not work off of a GFCI outlet. I'm guessing it has something to do with them already being built with one internally, or something like that. I'm pretty sure that you can not run a GFCI off of a GFCI. I'm going to have to switch at least one outlet back unless someone else has some ideas.
 
Didn't mention it before but I cut the top off of the barrel and flipped it upside down, creating a lid. It doesn't 100% seal tight but stays in place. I'll be doing the same thing on my saltwater barrel in the garage later. Here is a link to the video that prompted me to do it. I used a circular saw to cut my barrel.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-oJRRyqjkDs
 
Is it the angle of the pic in one of these last pictures that makes it seem like the water line is too visible? If so, have you considered lowering the molding to cover up the water line a bit?

Great job all around. Thanks for the update.
 
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