Cyano Bacteria questions?

[ocean.mirage]

HOW COMMON IS IT?

I get a small amount of it in a few areas of my tank, is this quite normal.

I have 20 times flow. I just seemm to get it in obscure corners, where it is impossible to get flow to. Or in areas that have a lot of "catching Places" for it. (ie. on clove polyps that seem to sttract this sort of thing with their filtering like structures. I do use a turkey baster, and that seems to work, to keep it from dwelling in any certain area.

What can I do to reduce it? I know that it is a byproduct of feeding, but I am still trying to figure out how much food my fish actually need. This seems to be a hotty debated topic.

Does carbon filter floss help, or would it be much more effective to use carbon bags. And does Phoschem help with it?

Thanx.

 

[clevername]

basicly, you need more flow. there are plenty of posts about this.

 

[ocean.mirage]

how could I increase flow? I currently have heat issues with three pumps in there.

 

[ocean.mirage]

is it common to have a small amount of cyano basteria?, the problem is not getting worse, it is just that there is always a small amount in my tank.

 

[EdKruzel]

The Cyno isn't a problem, merely a sign/symptom of the problem.
You mentioned three pumps, are they on timers or just on 24/7.
The amount of current is important, but more so is whether or not it is alternating or steady. Your powerheads should be on timers, turning on and off throughout the day and at different intervals.

As an example have each timer set to turn on for a 6hr period with 2hrs off, then begin again and so on for the entire 24hr period.
Timer one begins at 8am
Timer two begins at 9am
Timer three begins at 10am

With this cycle you have a change in current direction every few hours of the day.

Next is reducing your phosphates which feeds the Cyno. It isn't always the amount of food fed, but often the type. Foods that are processed like flake and pellet are high in waste because of fillers and binders. Next are the foods that posses very little nutrition such as brine shrimp and krill, when feeding this type of food it is recommended to purchase vitamin enriched or add a vitamin supplement to it. Your best bet and cheapest is to purchase seafood from the local deli. In people sized portions, seafood can be quite expensive, however buying a single fillet, a couple of rock clams and two or three pieces of shrimp is fairly cheap and just filled an order for a month or two of fish food.

Last but not least is another important part of the equation, lighting. Whether running NO florescent or high intensity Halides, when the overall spectrum grows weak and the bulb is delivering mostly from the 500-700nm range, you will receive excess algae, diatoms and/or cynobacteria. Purchasing a light meter is not necessary, simply know what the average life span is for the specific type of lighting you run and change the bulbs out when due.

Good Luck...

 

[ocean.mirage]

my bulbs are only 3 months old. I have two pumps for flow. one is on the skimmer. Where do I find these timers? and what intervals would I do with only 2 pumps?

And finally. Without getting 2 complex. I have 1 - firefish, 2 perc clowns, 1 - coral beauty, and 0ne chromis. I do use flake food and mysis. Maybe I t would help if I only used mysis?

Or should I use mysis and another frozen food only?
If so, what other frozen food should I use?

I want to keep things simple, will my fish live on only mysis and one other food, or will they even live on just mysis?

 

[ocean.mirage]

bump

 

[EdKruzel]

Two powerheads, same schedule. One on from 8-2pm then from 4-10pm then Midnight to 4am. The schedule starts back at 8am.

Second powerhead can start at 9-3pm, 5-11pm 1am-7am. This will give you a 1 hour break in the morning and then it all begins again.

With the exception of a few species all fish require variety. You can purchase several types such as Formula 1 & 2, Mysid, Spurlina enriched, Angel Formula, Multi Packs and so on.

 

[EdKruzel]

I purchase outdoor timers from Lowe's or Home Depot, I prefer the ones with the "pig tail'' cord so that it doesn't take any extra space on my power strip. I believe I paid about $11 each.

 

[ocean.mirage]

I am going to buy a tunze nanostream 6025, that should help with the flow and take care of alternating current problems.
My tank temp is always between 81-85 degrees, will this contribute to cyano production? (because of high heat?)

 

[EdKruzel]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9414328#post9414328 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ocean.mirage

My tank temp is always between 81-85 degrees, will this contribute to cyano production? (because of high heat?)

No, 85 is beginning to push it, but that's not a big factor like the current and food source.

 

[enchie]

For those small areas that get cyano use a turkey baster. Let your skimmer take care of the problem.

I have some areas that I just can't get flow to. The rocks have tons of holes in them. I blast the problem areas with the turkey baster whenever I feed.

 

[ocean.mirage]

I will get a tunze 6025, it is guarunteed here in 2 weeks. So that will help. especially with flow and my heat problem. It pumps 660gph with only 7w. My stupid maxijet 1200 pumps 350gph with 20w

 

[uscharalph]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9413641#post9413641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EdKruzel
Last but not least is another important part of the equation, lighting. Whether running NO florescent or high intensity Halides, when the overall spectrum grows weak and the bulb is delivering mostly from the 500-700nm range, you will receive excess algae, diatoms and/or cynobacteria. Purchasing a light meter is not necessary, simply know what the average life span is for the specific type of lighting you run and change the bulbs out when due.

Good Luck...

What is the life span of Sunpaq 96w bulbs?