Cyano

[eg8r210]

I have LEDs over the DT and fuge. I'll try to list the thighs that have changed over the past 2 months.

-Removed carbon about 2 months ago. I no longer run a carbon reactor.
-Started using aluminum oxide. Have since removed and went back to GFO.
-Reduced refugium light from 24 to 16 hours about 2 months ago. Raised it to 23 hours yesterday.
-Tuned skimmer about a month ago. More efficient now.

I would probably recommend that you make one change at a time and see if you can figure out what caused the cyano. You have something going on that is feeding the cyano. Since you have changed your lighting schedule back to the pre-cyano days I would wait some time and see if that fixes the problem (manually remove any cyano on the sand). If it didn't then maybe something odd has changed, maybe a little extra food was added, maybe extra fish were added, etc. You could try to up the amount of MB7 per the directions at that point.

When you are hunting for a "cause" if you change more than one thing and the issue goes away you will never know what caused the problem in the first place.

 

[ignatz]

This is generally when people who have zero phosphates in the test results see algae everywhere.

Right because a "zero" reading alone isn't a vector. You have to use the state of the algae (dying/dead - no growth/steady - growth/gaining ground) to qualify the "zero" reading. In OP's case, his phosphates are growing even if the reading remains constant as evidenced by the cyano expansion in the display. If additional phosphates aren't being added then it's safe to assume that his "beneficial" chaeto is receding at an equal rate. In this way, I think chaeto is an easy way to hide another underlying problem.

 

[Fuzzy]

If memory serves, when Mark Callahan spoke at the ORCA meeting, he said something about test kits only being able to measure around 10% of the substance tested. So - there could be a whole lot of bad stuff in the tank that isn't able to be measured

Fortunately I've only had a couple minor cyano problems over the years. Large water changes and occasionally running a DE Filter cleared it up for me.

 

[Tenshoa]

This is generally when people who have zero phosphates in the test results see algae everywhere. From everything I have seen in person or read online, a true ULNS will not grow algae. The fuge algae would die off because the nutrients are low enough that the algae has nothing to consume. If you have a successful fuge then my take is that you are not low nutrient, you just have enough of "stuff" to consume the excess.

I missed the post about his fuge. But yeah, I agree and almost posted that just because test results read low, doesn't necessarily mean it's low nutrient. But for all practical purposes at face value, the readings are low. And in my defense, he didn't claim ULNS, just low nutrient. And in my opinion, Nitrates below 3, and for some others, below 5, is still considered low.

That is of course, provided that algae isn't hiding the true amount that your test kit reads.

 

[Tenshoa]

I do not carbon dose. I only started dosing MB7 in an attempt to fight cyano. Are there any negatives to fighting conchs? I'll have to do some research on them.

Not that I'm aware of. They do particularly well in the substrate.


Also, what is your feeding regimen? How often? WHAT are you feeding?

 

[nitr8]

Also, what is your feeding regimen? How often? WHAT are you feeding?

I use the Neptune automatic feeding system. I have it set to feed three times a day and it drops 5-10 cross diet pellets each time.

 

[Tenshoa]

I use the Neptune automatic feeding system. I have it set to feed three times a day and it drops 5-10 cross diet pellets each time.

I know that some people love the pellets and some even swear by them. But they are a factory for phosphates in my experience. I have tested this theory by feeding regimen in my lps tank and have noticed a substantial difference in the accumulation of phosphates. I still use them from time to time but not nearly as often as I used to. Particularly when I go away. And particularly when I come home, I can visually see the increase in algae in my tank. Just my .02.

I feed once a day a mix of mysis and veggie food. Fish are fat and happy. And so is my glass. Lol

I'm half tempted to bet you an extra Bloodshot Paly that if you cut out the pellets, you'll see your Phosphates drop like a stone. haha

 

[Swirlygig]

I would just use ultralife slime remover....It may not remove the source but works great. just my two cents...sometimes the extra help doesn't hurt

 

[Swirlygig]

I have cyano now...really doesn't hurt anything unless gets out of control

 

[nitr8]

I know that some people love the pellets and some even swear by them. But they are a factory for phosphates in my experience. I have tested this theory by feeding regimen in my lps tank and have noticed a substantial difference in the accumulation of phosphates. I still use them from time to time but not nearly as often as I used to. Particularly when I go away. And particularly when I come home, I can visually see the increase in algae in my tank. Just my .02.

I feed once a day a mix of mysis and veggie food. Fish are fat and happy. And so is my glass. Lol

I'm half tempted to bet you an extra Bloodshot Paly that if you cut out the pellets, you'll see your Phosphates drop like a stone. haha

I only started feeding pellets last week because I was out of town. Normally I feed 1/2 cube thawed mysis daily.

I would just use ultralife slime remover....It may not remove the source but works great. just my two cents...sometimes the extra help doesn't hurt

Won't this kill the beneficial bacteria as well. I'm not a big fan of adding chemicals to the tank.

I have cyano now...really doesn't hurt anything unless gets out of control

Pretty much my entire sand bed is covered.

 

[OffDaHook]

I had red slime in my first tank. I attempted the removers and it just came back. Ultimately I siphoned it all out and covered the tank with lights out for 3 days and it never came back.

I would recommend red slime remover after a 3 day black out as an extra percussion.

From all my experiences it is one of the easy ones to get rid of. Good Luck.

John

 

[trialanderror]

I only started feeding pellets last week because I was out of town. Normally I feed 1/2 cube thawed mysis daily.

Won't this kill the beneficial bacteria as well. I'm not a big fan of adding chemicals to the tank.

Pretty much my entire sand bed is covered.

That's pretty low feeding. I feed 2-3 mysis cubes daily plus about 6 sq-in of red algae sheet, maybe more on the weekend.

 

[dmh8801]

I'm been dealing with the same thing. My tank is about the same age as your's and I also started out with Marco rocks. I've tried a lot of the thing you have with no luck. I'm thinking the problem has to be leaching phosphates from the rock.


Did you ever get this straightened out or figure out a way to control it?

 

[nitr8]

I'm been dealing with the same thing. My tank is about the same age as your's and I also started out with Marco rocks. I've tried a lot of the thing you have with no luck. I'm thinking the problem has to be leaching phosphates from the rock.


Did you ever get this straightened out or figure out a way to control it?

I'm still struggling a little bit but I've shown about a 95% improvement simply through manual removal on a weekly basis and I also added a fighting conch.

I tried MB7 and lights out periods and neither seemed to help.

I'm not 100% cured since it's so minimal now I'm thinking of trying lights out again.

 

[screamincamaro]

Hey gang I had a similar problem, kept very low phosphates, and still could not kick it even after the tank being up over a year. I tried everything. After doing some research I used Chemiclean and after 3-4 days it was all gone and never came back going on 2 months now. I liked Chemiclean based on it does not kill the beneficial bacteria that could cause a tank cycle. I'm not a big advocate of adding chemicals into my tank but I wish I would of done it a lot sooner. Check it out.