Cyno

B

Betaktical

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I am assuming this is cyno. Does dr tims really work or is there something else I can do. It seems like when I vacuum my sand bed or scrub it ok the rock it gets worse


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that doesn't seem to bad, your tank is new. wouldn't add chemicals, would just siphon it out with water changes and you should be ok
 
anthonys51 said:
that doesn't seem to bad, your tank is new. wouldn't add chemicals, would just siphon it out with water changes and you should be ok
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It's not bad now but it has gotten noticeably worse over the past 1-2 weeks. The first time I had it was about a month ago and it just keeps getting slowly worse. 20% weekly water change and siphon it every time.


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Could be better. 2 aqueon 700 one on each side of the tank. One is pointed to the surface


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Its caused by phosphates.
Excessive nutrients will cause this (are you over feeding?)
Phosphate can leak from other places, what kind of reactors are you using (if any)?

To say its just a flow issue misses the main cause of the problem. Dumping chemicals to kill it will also miss the cause of the problem and allow it to continue to come back.
 
You can get products that will rid of it really quickly, but you must first solve then underlying issues that is causing it.
My guess is high pho, are you using rodi water?



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davehead86 said:
Its caused by phosphates.
Excessive nutrients will cause this (are you over feeding?)
Phosphate can leak from other places, what kind of reactors are you using (if any)?

To say its just a flow issue misses the main cause of the problem. Dumping chemicals to kill it will also miss the cause of the problem and allow it to continue to come back.
Click to expand...

Dave hit it right on the head. I used Chemi-Clean to solve the short term problem, but unless you get your nutrient levels under control, you're going to have the same issue all over again. I stared running a bio-pellet reactor, and never saw the red stuff again. Take a look at your nitrates. Mine were too high to measure when I had an issue with cyano.
 
Nitrates are high 40 ppm I have no other algae. No reactor as I bought a house and am about to move in a month or so, so I've been saving all my money for that. I was running a canister with carbon live rock rubble and phosgard but I was told even with that in there it was still a nitrate factory. Using just RO water but it only test about 5 with tds meter. I know it's not zero but I know people who use tap water and have no algae


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Betaktical said:
Nitrates are high 40 ppm I have no other algae. No reactor as I bought a house and am about to move in a month or so, so I've been saving all my money for that. I was running a canister with carbon live rock rubble and phosgard but I was told even with that in there it was still a nitrate factory. Using just RO water but it only test about 5 with tds meter. I know it's not zero but I know people who use tap water and have no algae


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Click to expand...

do not use a canister filter with reef tanks. they are a nutrient trap unless you change them every 4 days witch no one does, your better off without it. just add another power-head for circulation
 
anthonys51 said:
do not use a canister filter with reef tanks. they are a nutrient trap unless you change them every 4 days witch no one does, your better off without it. just add another power-head for circulation
Click to expand...



How often should you clean a reactor? Aren't the essentially the same thing? I didn't have any floss or bio sponge in my canister


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well the reactor should be in your sump after your filter socks, so in essence its collecting cleaner water, while the filter is in your tank collecting dirty water. and if there is nothing in it, i bet if you open it there will still be dirt in it
 
kind of guessed that since you used canister filter. invest in one, with a protein skimmer. it will be the best investment. not sure if you have local reef clubs in your area, but if you do you can go on there and look for used ones, sometimes you can save as much as 50%
 
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