day after hatch

EMBRYOGUY

EMBRYOGUY

New member
thank you to all breeders for your patience with my simple questions:

broodstock salinity 1.025,
rotifer salinity 1.015,

morning of hatch, when i add the rotifers, will the change in salinity hurt the rotifers?

my plan is to drip 1.010 sterile broodstock water on day 1. target is to achieve 1.018-20 by day 3.


is this ok>? thank yo again.
 
Books say not to change rotifers SG more than 7 pts rapidly, and more needs slower acclimation. How meny you got after hatch?
 
Broodstock salinity 1.025 and rotifer salinity 1.015 should not cause your rotifers to die. Them buggers are hardier then you'd suspect.
My runs same levels and Ive been doing it for years.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8693152#post8693152 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Luis A M
You can hatch the eggs straight in 1.015 if you wish.No problem.
Click to expand...

Isn't that a little low?
and if it isn't, how low can you go?
Sorry for the hijack.
 
Don't know how low you can go but I hatch larvae in 1.016 and keep them there until transfer usually at about 30 days. I pull the nest from broodstock tanks at 1.020 and plop them straight into the 1.016. I also keep the rotifers at 1.016. The simple reason is to make things easier re water changes. I use the same water for rots and larvae. Also keeping the larval tank sg low has many benefits including better rotifer density for co-culture.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8694256#post8694256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dman
Isn't that a little low?
and if it isn't, how low can you go?
Sorry for the hijack.
Click to expand...
No.1.010 is fine.Around 1.009 is isotonic with body fluids.Beyond that osmoregulation should have to work like in a FW fish,which might not be possible for most species.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8700246#post8700246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David M
Bear in mind that diluting your salt water lowers pH at the same time.
Click to expand...
Actually alkalinity is lowered,which sustains the pH.Calcium is also lowered (like everything else).
 
Actually, alkalinity is diluted, therefore buffering capacity is lowered, and it is much easier for your pH to swing high or low depending on what is driving it. In our systems, it will likely fall, as the CO2 is respired from the fish, thus acidifying the water. You may want to supplement the alkalinity to keep pH good, or do as Ed does, and do a water change.
 
It also makes your salt go farther. :D:D:D All my systems are at 1.020 +/-.001.
Down, down, down she goes. Many thanks.
But......Isn't there always a but?
My pH drops like a stone all the time, I'm using Dr. RH-F's baked baking soda supplementation regime. Is there a better way (gotta be cheap, though) to do this?
Someone is gonna mistake me for Osama the way I hijack threads. :D:D:D
 
Just read that higher SG Makes Nitrites less Negative toward larva, but I guess not an issue with more frequent water changes :) Just a thought...Carl
 
Speaking of hijacking threads, what do you all do to test pH? Surely not some "drops in a test tube" regime, with so many tanks? I am thinking about one of those Hanna probes, anyone tried one? I guess I don't really trust the dip & read strips.
 
I Use the strips for quick Nitrite/Nitrate ref. I use drops for ph but looking into a probe as well....Carl But, I really don't have that many tanks...Yet :) Thanks for the help David...Carl Sorry E
 
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