decisions decisions ----

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10815875#post10815875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brian@sen
Why would it not last on something that is only occasionally in contact with liquid? Stainless steel is what the impeller shaft is made of in the majority of all aquarium related pumps.

Cheaper pumps use stainless, better pumps use ceramic. just for giggles, place a piece of stainless steel over some running saltwater for a couple of weeks and see what happens. Saltwater is some of the most corrosive stuff on the planet. "stainless" steel is just that when in contact with most things but when in contact with saltwater it will rust. Try it.
 
Not trying to start a fight but I thought only lower grade stainless had that problem? I have a stainless hose clamp on the return line for my 40 that is in contact with salt water most of the time and it was on there before I bought the setup from Cliff 4yrs ago. No rust or corrosion on the strap but some corrosion on the screw itself where the stainless coating was rubbed off from being tightened and loosened so many times. I do agree that an all plastic valve would be better but with regular maintenance a little stainless screw and wing nut should last as long as the valve.
 
Oh, no hard feelings at all, I was just giving my 2 cents. The chances of "high grade" stainless being used in most common products is slim. And by all means use what ever you want but why even chance it being "high" or "low" grade when plastic used in something like a float valve is the same price probably cheaper, just as durable for what its being used for and you can be SURE that it won't degrade, so why even chance it? Again, take it or leave it, thats just my opinion, but I have seen many rusted hose clamps rotting away in sumps etc over the years that people have used, you must have lucked out and gotten a better clamp and by saying that I am in no way being a smart arse or anything.
 
Ok it's being skipped around so I'll throw it out there. I could be wrong about this and there are others who know far more about metallurgy than I do. SS comes in many formulas the really good stuff cost more so we don't usually see it. I learned about grades of SS when all the Maxi Jet Cheap-O Mods were all over the forums. We had to use titanium for the prop shaft on our model but it was not practical after the Nano Streams were released. Either way I think good grade clamps, valves etc can be found but the majority are cheap steel which will degrade over time so be very careful with what you choose to use out there. It's no fun trying to loosen a rust clamp after several years of wear.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10861525#post10861525 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by firefish2020
Ok it's being skipped around so I'll throw it out there. I could be wrong about this and there are others who know far more about metallurgy than I do. SS comes in many formulas the really good stuff cost more so we don't usually see it.
Ding that's right Ron.
I've bought marine quality "solid" stainless screws for a boat before. Really expensive but don't rust. I can imagine the markup if they were for the aquarium trade, boating was bad enough. :lol:
just for giggles, place a piece of stainless steel over some running saltwater for a couple of weeks and see what happens.
You know I'm going to tell this Jim...
I've got a stainless reflector on my 20 that Jim swore wouldn't last 6 months.
5 years later it gets a few rusty looking spots on the surface that rub off with a damp cloth and shines like brand new but it's made from the same steel tanker trucks are made of. Thankfully I didn't have to pay for it or I wouldn't have it. :D
The hobby quality stainless lamp holders haven't faired as well.

Back to waste collectors. Brain/Lisa have you seen the one that uses a toilet flapper? I can't remember much about it but can find the link. I agree it would be nice if we could figure out how to make a collector work with needle wheels...since I might need one sometime :)
 
I remember seeing that thread and sort of read a bit of it.... it was here on RC wasn't it? Let's try tracking it down - as I remember it was a very "low tech" solution. I have actually been thinking about it off and on since I began this thread...

Ron and I are experimenting with a couple of different variants of auto-shut off now - both are pretty much modified beckett auto shut off containers. The problem that I'm afraid we might run into is the nature of the NW skimmer. The Coralife SS I have as well as the Turbofloater both run with the water fairly high in the reaction chamber so when the air shuts off and the water level rises we still run a risk of overflowing the waste container. On a skimmer setup to make "drier" foam it should not pose a problem but on a skimmer setup to produce wet foam overflows could theoretically happen. That is what I am testing now as well as what happens if skimmate backs up and flows through the air-line how does the concentrated detritus and proteins impact the pump....

Much to figure out....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10886996#post10886996 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snowstar
I remember seeing that thread and sort of read a bit of it.... it was here on RC wasn't it? Let's try tracking it down - as I remember it was a very "low tech" solution. I have actually been thinking about it off and on since I began this thread...
Much to figure out....
The one I'm thinking about is gregt's here on RC. I've got the main thread bookmarked. I'll find a more direct link tomorrow.
 
Thanks Amy - that is the diagram/design I remembered. I could not remember enough about the thread to create a good search. What he had done is basically the same as the acrylic waste containers sold by the folks who make Beckett skimmers. The main difference is the acrylic containers use a ping-pong ball as the float and shut-off device and it also looks much better than a toilet flap/foam contraption. :p So it is essentially what I am playing with - seeing what we have to do to get it to work with a NW skimmer. I think the ultimate limitation is going to be the design of the NW - the need to run the water so high in the column to produce wet foam.... Any time I shut the air off the water level rises to the cup and begins to over flow. Not a problem if the skimmer is in the sump but doesn't solve anything if the skimmer is external....

Did you happen to read the thread here on RC about Steve Weast's skimmer accident earlier this year? He lost ~200 gallons due to skimmer pumps. He cleaned the skimmer pumps during a maintenance and they ran wild and pumped a ton of water down the drain.... IF that weren't bad enough he "painic'd and made a bad decision" involving tap and old de-chlorinator. Lost all the SPS in the OregonReef... :( He later realized that he could have kept the tank running on the CL's only while he got the necessary amount of RO ready...... Sad Day For Reefing

Anyway still working on a shut-off for NW....
 
It's looking good on this end as well for those running lower to mid end skimmers like the Super Skimmers or Current brands. Tests are showing it's possible to shut down the air flow so if all goes well by Oct 28th we may have some solutions for one of the most common element to tank disasters.
 
I thought titanium was a very high grade of steel. Also Brian is right, not all grades of stainless will rust. Btw, I have read lower grades of stainless steel will be less likely to rust if they remain soubmerged. If it is going in and out of water it will rust more quickly than if it remains submerged.
 
I think we all agree there are different grades of stainless but like Jim said the chance of finding "high grade" in most reasonably priced components is slim. High grade stainless is pricey my 24"x18" sheet sold for well over $100.00 a piece several years ago. 5 years later it's still rust free. The lower grade hangers aren't.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10876425#post10876425 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
There are a lot of alloys for stainless steel. Many contain chromium which will in contact with salt water may form chromium sulfate which is bluish.
If you wish to use stainless steel (I use it externally for screws or clamps were they can be splashed) insure it is 316.
the chemistry forum had a thread on stainless steel the other day.

Lisa I read about the OregonReef crash :(. Did you know Michael Moye, 64ivy, lost his 10 years old 500 gallon sps tank this summer too? another one bites the dust. Different cause but it's been a pretty bad year for awesome tanks and experienced reefkeepers. If anybody hasn't seen it here is/was Michael's tank moyes reef
 
Unfortunately I stumbled across that one today .... truly a sad summer... I had always really admired his tank
 
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