Deep Tank Circulation

[SnoopyDaPimp]

I have been cycling a 46 gallon tank for the last three months and still do not feel comfortable. The tank was moved after being established for three years but since the move it is producing algae like it is cool. I do not know if it is a lack of water movement or what but I have to clean the glass at least three times a day or the green algae builds up. I have cut the lighting down to 7 hours a day. I have tried leaving the lights off for four days and it comes back within a week. I keep about 15 lbs of the same live rock and added another 35 lbs of dry lace rock. This tank being so deep do I need to switch to a different setup for my circulation or continue the waiting game.

The tank:
46g 20wx18dx30h
CPR Small Skimmer/Refugium Standard 240 GPH pump
Hydor 425 GPH in the middle of the tank
Hydor 280 in the back 4ish inches above the DSB
150w Metal Halide w/ LED actinic lighting
Salinity 1.025
Ca 420
Nitrates 0
Nitrites 0
Alk 290
Ph 8.1

Thanks for the help.

 

[alf1096]

Do some searches but the short of it is use rodi, check your poshphates and run gfo

 

[Pife]

Do some searches but the short of it is use rodi, check your poshphates and run gfo

Your new rock could be leaving phosphate. Put a power head in your deep tank.

 

[lllesley]

Also if you used the old sand bed it too could be leaking phos. Good advice already given.

 

[SnoopyDaPimp]

Do some searches but the short of it is use rodi, check your poshphates and run gfo

Rinsed the rock really well and only use RODI. I did search but didn't see anything about deep tank circulation or in the stickies. I did keep the old sand bed, I will have to order a test kit for the phos. Have the smaller powerhead running down at the base of the rock. Thanks for the input.

 

[Royce7586]

I would bet its the sand bed and if its 4" deep the only safe way to replace it would be drain all the water and rocks then remove the sand bed add new and refill

I recommend replacing with 1/2" to 1" deep sand DSB doesnt seem to be worth it in small tanks

 

[Wryknow]

What kind of clean up crew do you have to help out with algae control?

 

[SnoopyDaPimp]

CUC consist of some three hermit crabs, two turbo snails and one sand sifting sea star. However, shortly after I posted this I continued to research on other forums. I only use RO/DI water for my tanks and read about a similar issue. The water store that he/she got their water from ending up having bad water. Within that post I went to my local store and asked what their total dissolved solids (TDS, for other newbs like me) and they could not provide me an answer. I dug further and asked the last time their RO/DI membranes had been changed. Again, no answer. I went to another store a few more miles down the road and they provided me with everything. Since my last water change three days with the new store I have noticed that my phosphates have continued to fall and are now down below .1 from .25. That water change consisted of 15g which works out to roughly a 31% water change.

So long of the short is I believe that my RO/DI provider had bad membranes which was causing the high phosphate levels due to high level of their TDS. My larger tank that has been established has never had a problem. But in the future if I need to go anywhere else (besides the new place) I will remember to ask.

Again, I appreciate everyone's help. Hopefully this new water continues to hold value.

 

[Sk8r]

For phosphate removal, use a GFO reactor. It may continue to soak out of the rocks for some time, but this will take it away, ultimately, as it comes in reach. Definitely use ro/di: tapwater is another phosphate source. Hair algae won't grow without phosphate, and not much else likes it.

 

[Wryknow]

I would beef up that clean up crew as well. Reefcleaners.com has awesome package pricing.