Deltec AP600 - In sump or out?

With the AB2001 pump, the skimmer sounds like a APF600 based on when I was researching this skimmer. If you test the wattage, I don't think it's going to be more than 20watts. I have the equivalent model in the H&S line and my AB2001 pump only uses about 11-14watts when it's running, so not much heat will be generated.

Of course, installing externally will be less heat as the outside of the pump doesn't touch water.
 
Re: Deltec AP600 - In sump or out?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10058284#post10058284 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leopard Man
Got one of these and am thinking of placing it outside to minimise heat.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I have an AP600, I love having it on the side of my tank. Its easier to do any cleaning of the collection cup or any general maintenance needed. Its also easier to keep an eye on your skimmer too making any adjustments if needed. The negative issue is the fact the skimmer might overflow for some freakish reason. So if you are worry about any possible overflows then run it in the sump. The AP600 can be ran inside of a sump without any worry about excess heat. The Deltec aquabee's as far as I have experience give no noticeable heat to the water.
 
Suggestion running a skimmer externally is to put it in a small rubbermaid tub or any small tub, so if for any reason the skimmer goes crazy and overflows, the tub will hopefully catch most of it.
9639011_1024.ts1175674046233.jpg
 
Thanks guys, ok will think about it. I like the idea of placing it outside on a tub, just in case it overflows. But if it really draws 11-14W then placing it inside the sump might save all the hassle.
 
It just depends if you need the sump space for something else. With very limited sump space, recirculating skimmer outside works great. If you have the space for the skimmer, definitely better peace of mind with it running inside the sump.

RS's H&S A150 uses the Aquabee 2001 pump and hers draws only 11-14w per her post. The Deltec Aquabee might be alittle, like she said, it maybe around 20watts, which still isn't much. My H&S Aquabee pump on my A110 runs at 8w.
 
Thanks will keep that in mind. I read other people with the Deltec AP600 drawing out 11W too. May not be worth it all. I do have space for it in the sump.

I'm just trying to minimise heat as it's very hot where I live. I may go with the Deltec in the sump, and my return pump will be outside. I have a RIO HF, but I'm thinking of replacing it with an Eheim 1250.
 
Definitely go with the Eheim 1250. You only need a max turnover of your display tank through your sump of 250gph, so the Eheim 1250 would be a good fit as you loose a little after head pressure. Also, it is a very reliable quiet pump that transfer very little heat back into the water.
 
Make sure you are producing 160 gallons an hour through the skimmer. The water level in the skimmer should be where the clear body meets the black part. Any higher you will get a much wetter skimate. By the way the AP600 uses the AB2000 not the AB2000/1. The deltec ABF600 uses the bigger aquabee. I seen a AP600 user tested the wattage and it came out to 11 watts an hour I believe according to an older thread. The more you restrict the air tap, the more water the pump pushes through and the higher the wattage.
 
My drain line is 1" so with a ball valve I can get about 160gph. I got my Deltec in Hong Kong and it's 220V, 50HZ, 38W. It's definitely the AB2000/1. I have no idea why they gave me a bigger pump. It's a good thing I guess ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10061498#post10061498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leopard Man
My drain line is 1" so with a ball valve I can get about 160gph. I got my Deltec in Hong Kong and it's 220V, 50HZ, 38W. It's definitely the AB2000/1. I have no idea why they gave me a bigger pump. It's a good thing I guess ;)
Click to expand...

Most likely you have a APF600 then. The AB2000/1 would over power the AP600 body. The ABF600 has a bigger collection cup, bigger pipping to handle the extra pressure form the AB2000/1 compared to the AP600 model. How are you going to run this skimmer on 60 HZ? The european Deltec pumps do not run very well on power converters. It most likely will burn out.
 
I live in Asia and we are 220 - 250V here, so no probs. I thought I had the APF600, but on the foot of the Deltec it says Deltec AP600. Now I'm confused :eek1:

Dimensions: 11"L X 8.5"W x 22.5"H - Are those the dimensions for the AP600?
 
Yeah those are the dimensions of the AP600. Just make sure you have the water level were the clear meets the black and you will be set. I run my skimmer without the air tap. I get a wetter skimate but thats the way I like it.

In Action
104218mini-111-1139_IMG.JPG
 
Intersting Leopard Man, how does it run? I didnt think the AP600 could handle the larger Aquabee without overflowing. If it works then why worry
 
Looks good Deltec Rules,

So you run your skimmer outside? If I run it in the sump the water level must be where the clear cylinder meets the black, under the collection cup? Is that what you mean?

Goodwood,

I ran it before for 4 months on my 90G display and 35G sump. No probs with overflowing. I'm downgrading to a 50G display to minimise costs.

Cheers
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10061576#post10061576 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leopard Man
So you run your skimmer outside? If I run it in the sump the water level must be where the clear cylinder meets the black, under the collection cup? Is that what you mean?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Whether you run your skimmer in sump or outside, I think DeltecRules is saying the waterlevel inside the skimmer should start at where the acrylic cylinder meets the black ABS material. With the AB pump turned off and the tank water if feeding through your skimmer, that water level should start at where the cylinder meets the black. After you turn the skimmer on, the foam will come up and bring the bubble breaking level close to where it needs to be. If you prefer wetter skimming, you will need to raise the bubble breaking level some more. If you prefer it drier skimming, then lower the bubble breaking level. I found this old thread that might give you an idea what DR is trying to say.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8712700#post8712700 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by UCanDoIt
There are 3 controls on the skimmer:
1. INPUT controlled by gravity feed from overflow with ball or gate valve "or" pump feed with a correctly rated pump
2. OUTPUT controlled by ball or gate valve at skimmer's drain
3. AIRFLOW controlled by air valve

To set your skimmer correctly:
1. first you must be sure the water flow through rate is matched to your skimmer. most of the time, for gravity feed, one would need to tailor the rate back by ball or gate valve in control #1 as the water turnover rate is usually much stronger than your skimmer can accept. or you can feed skimmer with a correctly rated pump or powerhead.
<img src="http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/118362Gravity_Feed_Plumbing.jpg">

2. next, with the water flow through rate adjusted correctly, the water level within the skimmer must be at the right level for the skimmer to perform optimally. water level should just at the bottom edge of the bayonet connection between the collection cup and skimmer body. the highest water level you should have is no higher than the top edge of the bayonet top edge and the lowest is no lower than 3/4" below the bayonet connection. i like the skimmer water level on the high side, so even when the water flow through rate is correct, the water level is too low for me. so, in order to tailor back the outflow from the skimmer drain and to raise the water level within the skimmer, i use a ball valve or gate valve on the output, which is control #2, and the drain does terminate underwater in my sump. so, the comment that the outflow should not be underwater is a preferred situation, but works great even if you terminate underwater (unless with the correct water flow through rate, the water level in your skimmer is already at the top edge of the bayonet). all that happens when the exhaust terminates underwater is puts a little backpressure on the system, but that just increases the water level in the skimmer, which in my situation is on the low side when the water flow through rate adjusted correctly. the benefit of having the drain terminate underwater is no splashing noise at all, but your sump water level must remain constant or the change can put variable backpressure on the exhaust. i found that the best sump water level is within an inch below the exhaust T-fitting.
<img src="http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/118362Deltec_Water_Level-med.jpg">

3. adjust the air valve for maximum foaming with control #3. on both my Deltec and H&S skimmers that i own, it is tailored back approximately 1/4 - 1/3 which gives me the finest bubbles and good foaming head. if the bubble breaking level isn't correct, close down the exhaust valve a little to raise or open up to lower.
<img src="http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/118362Deltec_Bubble_Break_Level-med.jpg">

HTH, this is just one example of how it can work. many others have different ways that they setup their skimmers.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Klam for the help. I heard its better to have the aquabee running with the air turned off when adjusting the water level in the skimmer thats how I do mine. I read it from one of the older threads. I can swear from the instructions it says to turn off the aquabee when adjusting the water level. I wonder if there is a difference.
 
Klam, that's awesome. You're a big help.

I ran my old AP600 for 4 months before, and by fluke I was filling it where the clear cylinder meets the black material. I think for the sake of minimising heat, I'll just run it outside and have the overflow t off, like the hand written drawing suggest.

DR, I'll try running the AB with the air turned off when adjusting my water level in the future. Thanks too.
 
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