DI resin cartridge question

MuShu

New member
I have a SpectraPure Ro/di unit (the one with three chambers). I've had it since May, and I know that I need to replace my carbon block and sediment cartridge, but how do I know when to replace the DI resin cartridge? It says that it is color changing, but what does that exactly mean?
 
The media will change from one color to another and also you change it when your TDS coming out starts to not be zero or very low anymore..
 
Which color will the media change to? Will it all turn orange or will the black part lighten? That's what I'm confused about.
 
Don't know about SpectraPure, but my BRS DI resin begins changing color at the bottom of the cartridge and woks it's way up. Hope that helps.
 
You should go by the TDS out of the DI and not worry about what color it is. Mine will change color but still last for months producing 0 TDS water. Depending on which Spectrapure you have and which DI cartridge plus how much water you produce, it may lasts a year or 2. Plus spectrapure does a layering with their DI and use different kinds so that can make following color change hard to do.
 
It will start turning a brown color. I find its best to change the filters & dI resin all at once. It depends on your source water tds how long they will last. My input is less then 100 tds so mine last a while. I usually just change them once a year & I have never had a reading other then 0 tds after the dI. The membrane can last anywhere between 2 & 5 years. If your tds before your dI starts reading higher then normal or u notice the pressure starts reading lower then usuall it may be time to change the membrane.
 
Mine goes from black to orange as well. But I find the orange only gets about 3/4's of the way up the cartridge and then my TDS start to go up.
 
Consider the color change as a visual reminder that it's time for you to start paying close attention to the TDS of your DI water. You may get days, or even a couple of months more out of the cartridge before the TDS climbs. Trust your TDS meter.
 
Consider the color change as a visual reminder that it's time for you to start paying close attention to the TDS of your DI water. You may get days, or even a couple of months more out of the cartridge before the TDS climbs. Trust your TDS meter.

Very well said.
 
BRS say to not rely on color change as an indicator. As you may have worn out resin, but no color change. It seems Chloramines are particularly hard on RODI systems, and wear components out faster.
 
Mine turns orange and when I get 3/4 used I start getting 1-2 TDS. I will agree though an inline TDS meter and Pressure Gauge are must have's in a Quality RO/DI system. Drops in pressure and TDS rising are signs you will need to service membranes soon.

Also how long they last is not an exact science. It really depends on how bad the quality of water coming into the unit. I have on Avg. 285 TDS incoming and have seen it as high as 300 at times.

My pressure is right at 50 and that's without anything else running. If someone turns on another faucet I can easily see it drop and 3-5 psi. I'm really considering a booster pump to get the pressure up and more stable.

This video by BRS had me thinking. :hammer:

BRStv Investigates: Challenging PSI for proper RO/DI performance
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X14cUW-DXbs
 
Ugh. Not a fan of that video. The text he was reading has some technical errors. The general point he makes is true - pressure and temperature dramatically affect RO performance. See our calculator.
 
Ugh. Not a fan of that video. The text he was reading has some technical errors. The general point he makes is true - pressure and temperature dramatically affect RO performance. See our calculator.

I'm no expert myself on the topic. I just found it interesting and not that I took it for exact 100% factual truth.

My problem with my RODI is the concern about pressure and well I burn through DI cartridges fairly quick. I was told my water system used Chlorine and Chloramines per the water company report I sent them. So I actually got a carbon filter that was supposed to be more helpful removing Both. It helped a bit, but still not happy with the DI performance so far. Yes, I am getting 0 TDS water but as I said I get what I feel is poor performance of the DI cartridge. I have a 4 stage 100 gpd but not sure if I should by an addon to add 2 more stages to help the DI last longer. I don't make short batches of water either and no less than 20 gallons at a time and have a manual flush valve.
 
I have the BRS 4 stage. I'm on well water. My TDS going into the filter is 3. But my DI resin has changed color about 90% up from the bottom, and I have produced less than 200 gallons of water. Any idea what the heck is going on??
 
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