DI resin question, Crumbletop chime in on it please!

So you got about 5 months from the DI cartridge - that's not necessarily unusual, depending upon the tds of your RO water and how much DI water you make.

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at (for example) 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is.

Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced.

Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane, or a membrane that is not fully seated, or an RO membrane housing that is cracked - each of these conditions will result in the DI stage receiving “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin, or resin that was not stored properly before use.

What is the tds of your tap water and your RO water?

Russ
 
Russ, Wow, thanks for that post, I fell like I went to school and actually learned something. Great Post, I have copies & pasted it as that is a keeper for future reference for me.

Norman
 
Michael,

One other thing related to the flow being less now than when you first installed it. The water temp has gone down around here with the colder weather, and that will affect the water production from the membrane (less water will be filtered at the lower temperature) -- so that may account for the slower flow now than you had in August.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11448566#post11448566 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crumbletop
Michael,

One other thing related to the flow being less now than when you first installed it. The water temp has gone down around here with the colder weather, and that will affect the water production from the membrane (less water will be filtered at the lower temperature) -- so that may account for the slower flow now than you had in August.

Yea I thought about that after I did the post, I remember reading that in the manual.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11448183#post11448183 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BuckeyeFS
What is the tds of your tap water and your RO water?

When I did the test, it was running around 450 if I remember right. The RO is running around 0-3 tds. I just got home from Mid-night mass, I'll try to test the tap again in the morning.
 
OK:
Tap 450
RO:3
DI:0

Might want to check your RO number again - it has to be higher than 3. At 3 that would mean your membrane has a 99.4% rejection rate -- unlikely.

Crubbletop is right - more often than not when folks complain about slow production this time of year it is due to cold feedwater.

If that's the culprit, it will show in your waste to purified water ratio? You want something near a 4:1.

Russ
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11456831#post11456831 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mikeyjer
Tap-161
RO-3
DI-2

That would mean a 98% rejection rate - still very good.

Keep an eye on your DI numbers...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11456962#post11456962 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gsusfreak
buckeye, my RO comes out exactly at three everytime...hasnt been any lower or higher since ive had it

To calculate the rejection rate of your membrane - compare the tds in the permeate (3 ppm) to the tds in the feedwater (tap water). You want to see something close to what the membrane manufacturer claims.

So if you live in the an area with tap water at 950 ppm for example, the rejection rate would be 99.7%. This would be unlikely as it is higher than factory spec for membranes used in this hobby.

If you live in New York and your tapwater reads 32 ppm, the rejection rate would be 90.7% - ok for a Filmtec 100 gpd membrane, but too low for other membranes.

Russ
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11457306#post11457306 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BuckeyeFS
That would mean a 98% rejection rate - still very good.

Keep an eye on your DI numbers...

I check it every time I make water. I guess it's about time to replace the resin.....
 
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