Diary - My Ultimate Cube Project
- Thread starter gregt
- Start date
with sps mixed with lps and polyps mixed, the slow sps growth may be just a indicator of chemicals released by the non-sps inhabitants.....
Maverick27
New member
Tank looks great Chris, i love all the pictures you take of your tank. You feel like your in the tank haha. Heard something your supposed to replace halide bulbs every six months? Is that true or is that overkill? If its true then im overdue for a bulb change myself
Maverick27
New member
Tank looks great Chris, i love all the pictures you take of your tank. You feel like your in the tank haha. Heard something your supposed to replace halide bulbs every six months? Is that true or is that overkill? If its true then im overdue for a bulb change myself
Kinetic
Active member
WOW. that is sweet. I love your macro shots, they're really great. I really like everyone's aquascaping.
Hopefully in the near future my cube will be done too!
Maybe you guys can give me some cool ideas. My tank is 30" x 25" x 25" and still being built as you can see with an external overflow of 12" x 5" x 12".
I have four holes on the top of my eurobracing, the back two for vertical spray bars running down the back corners of the tank as sump returns, two on the front two corners for closed loop returns, two more closed loops in the back of my tank. The closed loop will be run with a quiet one 3000 1500gph pump with a OM Super Squirt. Sump return is 780gph pump. I have a 250watt hqi metal halide pendant, and I may put in my two 55watt Actinic PC's.
I was wondering if you guys knew the best ways to "point" the nozzles of my CL returns to get the best flow around the tank. Locline? I've heard of it but can't find any pages describing how it works.
Also aquascaping, I'm thinking of doing an offset C with the opening in the front, and then a small island to the left of it connected at the top with a bridge. Any ideas?
Thanks!!
Hopefully in the near future my cube will be done too!
Maybe you guys can give me some cool ideas. My tank is 30" x 25" x 25" and still being built as you can see with an external overflow of 12" x 5" x 12".
I have four holes on the top of my eurobracing, the back two for vertical spray bars running down the back corners of the tank as sump returns, two on the front two corners for closed loop returns, two more closed loops in the back of my tank. The closed loop will be run with a quiet one 3000 1500gph pump with a OM Super Squirt. Sump return is 780gph pump. I have a 250watt hqi metal halide pendant, and I may put in my two 55watt Actinic PC's.
I was wondering if you guys knew the best ways to "point" the nozzles of my CL returns to get the best flow around the tank. Locline? I've heard of it but can't find any pages describing how it works.
Also aquascaping, I'm thinking of doing an offset C with the opening in the front, and then a small island to the left of it connected at the top with a bridge. Any ideas?
Thanks!!
chrishet
Member
All those plans sound great. Do you really need that large of an overflow? 12x12 takes up a lot of space. I think mine is roughly half that deep and I have my returns going through it. I'm using a Mag 9.5 through a SCWD 9.5 upgrading to a Squirt).
Locline is good stuff. Savko and Modularhose will have all the parts you will need. I love the stuff. Good info on the Modularhose site.
http://www.savko.com/index.asp
http://modularhose.com/
Looking forward to seeing more pics.
Regards,
Chris
Locline is good stuff. Savko and Modularhose will have all the parts you will need. I love the stuff. Good info on the Modularhose site.
http://www.savko.com/index.asp
http://modularhose.com/
Looking forward to seeing more pics.
Regards,
Chris
KING OF THE REEF
New member
wow awsome tanks i love the zoos and what nots, when i get my new 20 set up later today or tmmrw ill post pics. will have a few corals and my pair of clowns because im just transohering stuff from another tank over (enogh water and rock and sand though)
very interesting - In my 24-gallon JBJ cube I had pretty good growth of monti digi's and caps and that was just under PC's; so I wouldn't think that it is the lights.
- but I also know that they were more sensitive than the acro's in the tank, as when I fragged some blue palythoa's (large zooanthids) it wiped out the six small colonies of montipora in my tank
.If you can borrow a par meter it may help a lot - some halide bulbs will loose par after 6-months, others will last for 4-years (seriously) all depends on the ballast they are on, and the type of bulb - even manufacturing difference from bulb to bulb could make one outlast another by a year - a par meter would probably pay for itself in that respect. Luckily there is someone in my local reef club with a par meter, so I haven't had to invest in one myself.
-Nick
robster
Premium Member
I've been thinking of upgrading myself. This is the tank I liked. 30x30x31. 125 gallons. I would want a acrylic internal overflow, not clear glass. Not sure why anyone would want a clear internal overflow.
http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewPicture&lPictID=120
I was thinking of using a lumenarc reflector with a 400W SE Radium bulb with a 12" Canopy and steel cabinet frame with wood panels. I love these reflectors.
http://www.aquariausa.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=124
Sunlight supply is now making their own version. I like how it hangs.
http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104928.html
Chris, your tank look gorgeous. Have you had any luck spawning your Onyx? Mine are growing quickly. The male has started to vibrate next to the female in the rose anemone. I am feeding them well and added a auto diming moon light from here:
http://www.fishbowl-innovations.com/
And my auto top-off from here:
http://www.autotopoff.com/
Did you guys see my post on my custom made 10" canopy back a few pages ago? It cuts off most of the spillover light and focuses much more light inside the tank. Learning the new top-off and temp settings at that point or the start of a new season has been challenging but finally under control with the right fans, heater controller, and top-off.
Here is where I got my new Aqua Medic heater controller. Great price. It controls up to a 1000W heater. Great price at only $60. You can run it with an existing heater or you can get a Titanium heater to plug in for an additional $28. That is what I did. I use the stealth heater I was using for heating water change water. I realized my coralife heater probe is reporting water 2 degrees cooller than what the biotherm reports. I think I was overheating the tank with the stealth also adding to my evaporation problem. The coralife probe is covered in coraline.
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=21402&cat=668&page=1
http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewPicture&lPictID=120
I was thinking of using a lumenarc reflector with a 400W SE Radium bulb with a 12" Canopy and steel cabinet frame with wood panels. I love these reflectors.
http://www.aquariausa.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=124
Sunlight supply is now making their own version. I like how it hangs.
http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104928.html
Chris, your tank look gorgeous. Have you had any luck spawning your Onyx? Mine are growing quickly. The male has started to vibrate next to the female in the rose anemone. I am feeding them well and added a auto diming moon light from here:
http://www.fishbowl-innovations.com/
And my auto top-off from here:
http://www.autotopoff.com/
Did you guys see my post on my custom made 10" canopy back a few pages ago? It cuts off most of the spillover light and focuses much more light inside the tank. Learning the new top-off and temp settings at that point or the start of a new season has been challenging but finally under control with the right fans, heater controller, and top-off.
Here is where I got my new Aqua Medic heater controller. Great price. It controls up to a 1000W heater. Great price at only $60. You can run it with an existing heater or you can get a Titanium heater to plug in for an additional $28. That is what I did. I use the stealth heater I was using for heating water change water. I realized my coralife heater probe is reporting water 2 degrees cooller than what the biotherm reports. I think I was overheating the tank with the stealth also adding to my evaporation problem. The coralife probe is covered in coraline.
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=21402&cat=668&page=1
chrishet
Member
Thanks robster. My male onyx is always shaking a sputtering around the female but no spawning here.
I use the same auto topoff. It has worked flawlessly for the past year. I have it triggering the RO/DI unit in my bathroom. The output of the RO goes into a kalk reactor which in turn goes into my sump. So every night I am topping off with kalk. My calcium, pH and alk levels have all been fine. I do manually add Reef Complete.
I had a bad thing happen yesterday and didn't realize it till just a few minutes ago. I did a water change yesterday and used kalk water from the reactor for the water mix
. I have a bypass on my reactor that I use when I need fresh water and I forgot to switch it, so all 10 gals of water that I mixed was dosed with kalk! This morning when I looked at the pinpoint it said 9.0, ouch! After searching around the RC lists I found a solution, white vinegar. I slowly added 30ml to my sump and like magic, my pH came down to 8.5. I'm thinking that is good enough for now and will just use freshwater for a few days to bring it down the rest of the way.
Btw, ordered a Reeflux 250w 10k bulb today. Reports look pretty good on it. I am a big fab of blue so I will probably add some actinics also, any thoughts on bulbs? I was thinking a pair of 28w PC's would work. I may be needing that hood sooner rather then later.
That looks like a great tank, love those cubes!
I use the same auto topoff. It has worked flawlessly for the past year. I have it triggering the RO/DI unit in my bathroom. The output of the RO goes into a kalk reactor which in turn goes into my sump. So every night I am topping off with kalk. My calcium, pH and alk levels have all been fine. I do manually add Reef Complete.
I had a bad thing happen yesterday and didn't realize it till just a few minutes ago. I did a water change yesterday and used kalk water from the reactor for the water mix
. I have a bypass on my reactor that I use when I need fresh water and I forgot to switch it, so all 10 gals of water that I mixed was dosed with kalk! This morning when I looked at the pinpoint it said 9.0, ouch! After searching around the RC lists I found a solution, white vinegar. I slowly added 30ml to my sump and like magic, my pH came down to 8.5. I'm thinking that is good enough for now and will just use freshwater for a few days to bring it down the rest of the way.Btw, ordered a Reeflux 250w 10k bulb today. Reports look pretty good on it. I am a big fab of blue so I will probably add some actinics also, any thoughts on bulbs? I was thinking a pair of 28w PC's would work. I may be needing that hood sooner rather then later.
That looks like a great tank, love those cubes!
pimp2daizzo
Active member
can i see some pics of the groth on the cup corals???
NanoCube-boy
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=5549848#post5549848 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrishet
Do you feed your Tubestraes mouth by mouth with a syrin?
Is that your True Clowns eggs? IF it is... WOW!!!!!!
chrishet
Member
Nanocube, I target feed my suns about once a week with mysis shrimp. About 15mins before I feed them the shrimp I add a little cyclopeeze to the tank. This makes them open up big. Then I just turn off the pumps and use a turkey baster to target the shrimp to the coral. I also feed with cyclopeeze every other night.
They are Black Onyx Clowns and yup they have laid thier first batch of eggs. I don't see much of a chance they will survive but isn't it cool!
They are Black Onyx Clowns and yup they have laid thier first batch of eggs. I don't see much of a chance they will survive but isn't it cool!
Congrats Chris! How old are the clowns?
