Dinoflagellates

oday, 11:38 AM #25
bigzman
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Also forgot to mention doing both reduces chance of cyno.

http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index....arine-aquarium

Written by Cliff Babcock and Dr. Randy Holmes Farley
"Reduce Cyanobacterial Growth


Scientific research has found that cyanobacterial growth does not increase when dosing vinegar (acetate), where it was found that ethanol dosing will increase cyanobacterial growth. Cyanobacteria produce PHA to store energy when needed. PHA is an ingredient in some biopellets. So cyanobacteria can utilize some if not all of the biopellets. Hobbyists who have dosed vinegar have reported less cyanobacterial problems compared to dosing biopellets & ethanol. This was my experience as well."


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210G Mixed Reef - 3 D120 LED - EShopp S-300 Skimmer - 3 x Jebao RW-15

Current Tank Info: 210 gallon mixed reef lps sps


I just saw this in another thread I think you run biopellets?...also when I lookup Dinoflagellates on Google images the pictures look to me like cyno maybe your reactor is giving this energy or food...Maybe replace the pellets or shut off the reactor and run gfo for a few weeks?
 
oday, 11:38 AM #25
bigzman
Registered Member

Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New Tampa FL
Posts: 1,995
Send a message via AIM to bigzman
Also forgot to mention doing both reduces chance of cyno.

http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index....arine-aquarium

Written by Cliff Babcock and Dr. Randy Holmes Farley
"Reduce Cyanobacterial Growth


Scientific research has found that cyanobacterial growth does not increase when dosing vinegar (acetate), where it was found that ethanol dosing will increase cyanobacterial growth. Cyanobacteria produce PHA to store energy when needed. PHA is an ingredient in some biopellets. So cyanobacteria can utilize some if not all of the biopellets. Hobbyists who have dosed vinegar have reported less cyanobacterial problems compared to dosing biopellets & ethanol. This was my experience as well."


__________________
210G Mixed Reef - 3 D120 LED - EShopp S-300 Skimmer - 3 x Jebao RW-15

Current Tank Info: 210 gallon mixed reef lps sps


I just saw this in another thread I think you run biopellets?...also when I lookup Dinoflagellates on Google images the pictures look to me like cyno maybe your reactor is giving this energy or food...Maybe replace the pellets or shut off the reactor and run gfo for a few weeks?


Thanks Jake, Its not Cyano, But I do think the pellets may have something to do with it. I shut them off a few days ago.
 
I would also do a water change ...change socks everyday ...and skim wet ...Maybe stir up the sand and Turkey baste the rocks to help remove excess nutrients/fuel/food for the algae...if you need any gfo I can spare some and a two little fishies reactor I have both you can borrow the reactor but you will need a pump. Sorry if you have already said you have done these things I haven't had time to read through the thread.
 
Update, After the black out, didnt seem to help much. BUT, I also shut off my bio pellets and auto water changer, and have kept them off. Today when I got home from work, I can see a substantial dye off. I have to do some testing now for my nitrates, and see what they look like after several days of no pellets. Dino may have been feeding on the pellets.I know the RO and salt water are fine.
 
I have been battling Dyno in two tanks for the last few months. On the worse of the two tanks, I have done a 3 day and a 5 day blackout. Both helped, but it was slowly making a return. I started dosing Microbacter7, and that tank is now at a stalemate. On my other tank, a 3 day blackout helped, as did Hydrogen Peroxide. Both of which however stressed the coral in the tank. I started dosing that tank with Microbacter7 and started a bio pellet reactor. I have been skimming like crazy, and have my nitrate <.25 ppm and my phosphate at .04 ppm. Amazingly, the Dyno in that tank are slowly disappearing from my sand. My thought process was to try and get the bacteria to outcompete the Dyno for food, which at this point seems to be working. I will start another 3 day blackout on the other tank tonight, while continuing the dosing on Microbacter7. I may also start a bio pellet reactor on the other tank as well.

These things are a real ***** to eradicate, and my research led me to the conclusion that we still have much to learn about these organisms. It seems that some solutions work for some people and not for others. This could be different strains of Dyno, or differences in the chemistry from tank to tank. In my case, I know that I cross contaminated both of my tanks, and each tank is reacting differently to treatments. Keep fighting.
 
Interesting, NITRATES have went from 0 to 25 without pellets. But the dino is diminishing. I read something about people dosing skimmate or nitrates to help. mmmmm Should I do a water change or let nitrates rise more ?
 
I wouldn't let the nitrates rise ....I'm on board with the last guy about having good bacteria to help
 
I wouldn't let the nitrates rise ....I'm on board with the last guy about having good bacteria to help

I have that DinoX coming tomorrow, i'll see what the directions say on that stuff. I think your right Jake.
 
Interesting, NITRATES have went from 0 to 25 without pellets. But the dino is diminishing. I read something about people dosing skimmate or nitrates to help. mmmmm Should I do a water change or let nitrates rise more ?

I know a lot of people are claiming success by letting the tank go dirty. The question that I can't find an answer to is why? To me, it sounds like the nitrates are causing something...ie. algae to outcompete the Dino for resources. Which is exactly what I am trying to do with the bacteria. I finally feel like I'm beating them back, hopefully for good.
 
I know a lot of people are claiming success by letting the tank go dirty. The question that I can't find an answer to is why? To me, it sounds like the nitrates are causing something...ie. algae to outcompete the Dino for resources. Which is exactly what I am trying to do with the bacteria. I finally feel like I'm beating them back, hopefully for good.

I think your right, the nitrates must take the food supply away from the Dino.
 
Dirty water was a must for me. When you change the water it feeds the dinos. No water changes and just ro top off followed by a prolonged black out, and i mean complete black out, i had my entire tank wrapped so no outside light could enter. Did that for 14 days. Even if the dinos die off earlier than that id go a few extra days just to make sure. I also VERY slowly added lighting period back. 1 hour a day first week, 2 hours a day second week and so on.
 
I guess I am the only one that didn't have to black out, damage corals or crap in my tank to get rid of this stuff. Lucky me. :)
 
I know a lot of people are claiming success by letting the tank go dirty. The question that I can't find an answer to is why? To me, it sounds like the nitrates are causing something...ie. algae to outcompete the Dino for resources. Which is exactly what I am trying to do with the bacteria. I finally feel like I'm beating them back, hopefully for good.

Dinoflaggelate infestations are due to lack of competition on a microscopic level. Basically, your plankton has become too much of a monoculture. This is why people are having success in treatment by either culturing skimmate (PLEASE read up on the link previously provided before trying this - reasons should be obvious) or introducing populations of phytoplankton and planktonic - not benthic copepods. This is also why dirtying up the tank works for some - the algaes can outcompete the dinoflagellate populations once their populations are strong enough and then it is easier to deal with common algaes once the dinos are gone. Water changes will set you back because trace elements fuel the blooms. Introducing a piece of fresh live rock may also introduce cilliates that will eat the dinos, but it is a population numbers game and random chance. Not enough food and the cilliates die. If they don't eat ALL the problem dinos, the dinos return. I think that encouraging a diverse set of organisms at the bottom of your food web is key.

All that said, I revert to my initial point that if you don't get your species under a microscope for ID, you are likely wasting time trying one size fits all treatments that may not work.
 
Looking better, I got home from work and the corals are all perking up. :) Dino fading a little more.

 
I still have the one tank with them being held very much at bay. They have definitely stopped expanding, shrunk back a little, and now they have been about the same for the last few weeks.

On my other tank, I know they are both photosynthetic as blackouts do a number on them. But they came back slowly after each blackout period. I finally decided to start DinoX. It started to beat them back by the second dose, and then to further it along I started another blackout. After 4 doses, and nine days (3 day blackout), they seem to be eliminated. I dose again today, and will keep a very close eye on everything.
 
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